I rang up arb and they said their kit costs around $150 so therefore i was forced to get the suvlight kit because including the Osram 80w bulbs is only $15 US postage. Thanks for the help I'll let you know how I go and will post up some pics also.
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I rang up arb and they said their kit costs around $150 so therefore i was forced to get the suvlight kit because including the Osram 80w bulbs is only $15 US postage. Thanks for the help I'll let you know how I go and will post up some pics also.
Yeah i'm trying to dahondr, it's hard cause there's a huge price difference and even when I asked if he could do any better with cash he said he couldn't and that their prices were set. If they say that over the phone then I'm not really gonna waste my time and drive there to ask them again.
I think there's a dark cloud over these H4 harnesses because a lot of the workers don't really know what they're talking about. Like they can't really tell you the specifics of the product.
^^ True because with the prices of HID's these days they really don't sell them that often.
Plus it's always a different story when you're in someones face ;)
Hey guys, my H4 Heavy duty kit just came in the mail and I need some help. I'm not 100% sure where to plug the plugs. I'll start with my understanding & you can let me know if it's correct.
(A) Goes to the black terminal on the battery
(B) Goes to the positive (red) terminal on the battery
(C) I think it's just a fuse holder thing, do nothing with it
(D) Another thing I don't know what it is, do nothing
(E) The relays, just mount them somewhere safe on the car
(F) Right hand side plug that goes into the right bulb
(G) Left hand side plug that goes to the left bulb
(H) Now this is what's really confusing me, this male adapter. I can't find anywhere that fits this in my EG...??? Plz help.
http://img2.pict.com/53/b9/fd/2513689/0/harness.jpg
Can you guys confirm where (H) goes and if I'm correct so far?
Another question is how come there's nothing that goes into the switch or something, how does it know to turn on when I turn the lights on in the car?
And also from some diagrams I see on other sides, a lot of the bulbs have another ground wire coming out of them, whereas I don't think mine does. Is this correct?
Thanks in advance
look at h, does it look like the rear of the lightbulb you just pulled out?
mystery solved ;)
You mean the halogen bulb? Yeah it looks exactly the same, but where do I plug (H)? Sorry still don't get it..
Cause the end of the bulb goes to the female connector yeah?
okay i'll play along..
if the stock harness controlled the bulb, and h looks exactly like the rear of your bulb
how do you think the harness is controlled?
me thinks someone needs some sleep :p
OK let me get this straight... so the stock harness goes into the male connector (H).
Then the female connector goes back into the bulb? Am I correct?
Geez if this is correct then I'm awfully confused! Cause I was under the assumption that none of my factory wiring would be reused apart from the switches or something! Cause that factory wire is thin as, I think 18ga or something, wouldn't that affect the performance?
Geez, don't they supply instructions? Piranha and ARB do!:)
OK, here's what to do. You unplug the existing H4 female connectors that plug into the back of the H4 headlight bulbs on your car. Then, plug H on the new harness plugs into one of the existing headlight female connectors. Plugs F and G plug into the headlight bulbs, in place of the old connectors.
E is the two relays and their plug in sockets from the harness – just mount them somewhere handy in the engine bay, between the battery and the nearest headlight, using existing bolts if there are any handy, or drill some new holes, say on the side of the engine bay, and use some self-tappers, complete with shakeproof and flat washers, to hold them on.
D – I can’t see clearly what it is, but I’d guess two blade fuses in fuse holders, seeing it’s in the wiring from the battery. They should be mounted somewhere, if there’s a mounting bracket on them, like the relays – if not, get some cable ties, and tie them to some existing cable looms in the engine bay, or other solidly mounted objects, to prevent them moving around too much. Cable ties are widely available from hardware stores (eg Bunnings, Mitre 10), car accessory stores (eg Repco) or electronic suppliers (eg Dick Smith, Jaycar).
B should have a ring terminal on it (it’s hard to see – a bit small in the photo!), which should be connected to the positive battery terminal, using the bolt on the battery terminal clamp. Disconnect the battery earth (negative) terminal first, before doing that.
A is the earth wire for the headlights – it should also have a ring terminal on it, and it can be mounted under the bolt for the earth (negative) terminal on the battery, or under an existing bolt to the metal in the engine bay, although you should make sure there’s no paint there, to make a good earth. There are usually also several good existing electrical earth bolts in the engine bay – for instance, where the engine is earthed to the body, and where the battery earth cable mounts to the body.
Use cable ties to anchor the new wiring to existing wiring looms in the engine bay, to prevent it moving around too much. About every 30cm or so, use a cable tie to hold it in place.
That’s it - connect the battery up, and check that the headlights work on low and high beam. You should hear clicks as the low and high beam relays turn on, when you go from low to high beam and vice versa.
You can always compare results, by just connecting up the new wiring to one headlight. Then turn the headlights on at night, and cover each light in turn, and you should see a difference in brightness between the two headlights – the one with the new wiring should be quite a bit brighter. Make sure that the plug which isn’t used, from the old headlight wiring, doesn’t short to anything – it’s probably advisable to use a bit of electrical tape to insulate it, and prevent it from earthing to any metal. You could also tape it to the wiring loom, to prevent it moving around too much, but make sure it’s still in place, so you can pull the new harness out, and transfer it to your next car, or return the wiring to normal if one of the fuses blows, and you haven't got a spare, and you're miles from home, in the dark....
It doesn’t matter that your existing wiring is thin – all it will be used for is to switch on the relays. The relays only take a few milliamps of current (about 200mA, I’d guess) to operate, and then when operated, they switch the current through high current rated relay contacts, via your new thick wire in the new harness, to the headlights, via the new plugs F and G. The headlights draw current of about 5A (5000mA!) each on high beam (60W high beams), so the old wiring can easily handle the current from the relays.
If there are any other wires going to the headlights, it will most likely be for the park lights – just leave them as is – you don’t need to upgrade the wiring for them, as they are probably only about 5 watts.
That's it - I'm off to bed.:sleep: I just got sidetracked because I was waiting for an upgrade of my photo editing program to download off the manufacturer's website, and it was downloading very slowly, so I thought I'd have a look at the forum.
:arrowu: This is exactly right.
To shorten it down into layman terms. You've effectively replaced the bulbs with electronic switches that handle the bigger wiring/amperage.
Think of it like having a midget as a messenger. You tell the midget (original switch + wiring) to run over and tell the big muscle-bound dude (relay) to start pulling the big heavy weight (larger current draw on bigger new wiring). This stops the midget from breaking his back (burning out the original wiring).
:D