well for what it is (1.6l) its good imo
But yeah would deff have gone the b18c7/r anyday :)
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ohwell, u dont forsee the future. always happens, u upgrade, then you realise you should have gotten greater.
Yeah, the main reason I didn't do that was that my bottom end is very healthy. I think a B16A out of factory made about 230 compression per cylinder, and at 99,600 KMs (and 20 years old) mine is making 215, 210, 215, 220.
So it's very healthy. Made a nice 99.4kw ATW with CAI, header and axle-back.
So I bought a spare B16A head which I'm building a bit.
- Skunk2 stage 1 camshafts ($1000)
- Skunk2 adjustable cam gears ($340)
- Jun valves ($400)
- Supertech titanium retainers ($200)
- Supertech valve springs ($300+)
- Re-welded combustion chambers (for higher compression)
- Port job on intake/exhaust
- ITR throttle body and intake manifold ($350)
- New CAI ($350)
- Kakimoto racing cat-back ($1160)
- 100 cel Metal high-flow cat converter ($140)
- Full VRS kit as my head gasket is leaking and this is a good opportunity to replace them all ($600)
- Walbro 255 fuel pump ($160)
- Sard fuel regulator ($170)
- New OBD1 dizzy ($280)
- OBD1 injectors (probaably Integra injectors) ($50)
- OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness ($140)
- Hondata S300 + tune (probably $2,000-2,300)
Machine shop labour $750
Mechanic's labour $1500 (custom port job, reco of head [was really ****ed when I bought it], assembly etc)
Plus I just put on Bilstein coilovers ($600), bought some RE001 for my watanabes ($420), bought some Mugen MR5's from Japan ($1100) which need a professional refurbish because the clear coat has oxidised and I want them to look new again ($600) and then I'll put Toyo T1R's on them ($500).
Also getting brand new engine mounts as all mine are cracked and ****ed as with most EF8's ($712) and then I need new rear trail arm bushes, need to replace a CV boot and probably need a new clutch.
So when you add all that up it's about $15,000 - I then when I get a garage I'll get a full respray :)
So with 99.4kw ATW now I'm hoping this setup results in at least 115kw, but hopefully 120+. And to top it off I know I'll have a near-new condition motor with all new/top quality parts which I am already familiar with rather then buying some random B18C or K-series (UGLY) which could be a total lemon! I love my B-series...
And lastly, since I'm only building the head, I can do B20VTEC in the future if I need to :)
wow ... is there a build thread to go with this?
i take back what i said..I like your thinking dougie
I would be interested to see how my compression is, mine has just over 125000kms on her.
imma assume ur gonna track it one day rite? lol thats the reason why anyone would pour that amount into b16.... why not go Itb's like mikes b20? response is the key on a track
you could try the VTEC SNORKEL ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbZg8QBJaMM&feature=fvw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvJ_Ga1NuSE
Sorry to OP for hijack!
Yes there is, but it's on www.crxaustralia.com! I thought about making one here but have never bothered, though I'll think about it in time to come :)
Thanks mate I appreciate that. Compression tests don't take long and aren't complex! Can't hurt mate, gives you an indication of how your motor's going!
Aside from the previous reasons, I also want to keep the B16A bottom so I have no engineering/registration issues. This car is my weekend car only and in the 18 months that I've owned it I've driven about 3,000 KMs. I drive it once a week to keep the battery going/stop the tyres getting flat spots and when CRXAustralia has meets.
Everything on it in legitimate and/or good quality and it will always be that way!
But yes I'll be looking into track days when it's all finished :)
lol@the VTEC SNORKEL