[Euro] (10000 service) syn oil not recommended

That's very true, Should only let it sit there for around 10 secs at the most and then start to drive very slowly!

If you let it sit there & warm up, the oil stays cold for longer and the oil pump does not push the oil around quickly enough to lubricate your motor. It's like if you start up and old car and you can hear the top end ratteling and you give it a few little revs it will go away because the oil is starting to flow around & also warm up. The best way is to start the engine, let it sit for 5-10 seconds and start to drive very slowly with very light load and low rpm's (without bogging the engine ofcource) after you have travelled around 10-15km the oil should be pretty much warm and ready for anything :)

You want the motor to warm up as quikcly as possible without putting it under any major stress. letting the motor turn on idle cold for long times will create problems

My euro has 40,000 on it now and i have done alot of vtecing lately and i have never even seen a drop get used! Been on 5-40 motul synth since 10,000km's.

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Originally Posted by tknova

That's very true, Should only let it sit there for around 10 secs at the most and then start to drive very slowly!

If you let it sit there & warm up, the oil stays cold for longer and the oil pump does not push the oil around quickly enough to lubricate your motor. It's like if you start up and old car and you can hear the top end ratteling and you give it a few little revs it will go away because the oil is starting to flow around & also warm up. The best way is to start the engine, let it sit for 5-10 seconds and start to drive very slowly with very light load and low rpm's (without bogging the engine ofcource) after you have travelled around 10-15km the oil should be pretty much warm and ready for anything :)

You want the motor to warm up as quikcly as possible without putting it under any major stress. letting the motor turn on idle cold for long times will create problems

My euro has 40,000 on it now and i have done alot of vtecing lately and i have never even seen a drop get used! Been on 5-40 motul synth since 10,000km's.

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motul 300v chrono or 8100 excess?

running synthetic oil in a motor before the rings have had a chance to bed in you run the risk of getting blowby because the oil is thin it gets by the rings and forms a permanent channel for oil to slip past called blowby

you learn these things when you buy a new motor unfortunatly i thought i knew best and nobody told me other wise so i used mobil 1 in my new remanufactured commodore motor and now have blowby

wen we raced HQ's wed have our motors run in by Dave at charsleton dyno & exhaust at blacktown. Wed take all kinds of oil hoping to see wat is the best for power gains on a dyno we tryed mobil 1, castrol R spec, just to name a few but i nearly fell over wen Dave told me he wont runin my 8 grand motor on the dyno with mobil 1 cause it would take a week and made us go and get no name oil the shitest stuff we could find

ah yeah in a 202 inline six running avgas mobil 1 made 3kw more than any other oil

Follow my method, and you can VTEC and stay above 5000rpm for a total of 90 minutes without drinking ANY oil. NO change in oil level, no oily exhaust.

i used mobil1 10w-30 at 20000km service, to be honest it's smooth but also LOUD!

i am punching near 5000km in just 1.5 months can't wait to change to another oil "not better" but at least will reduce the tapping noise.

can anyone give me a good example like castrol 5w-30? motul 5w-40? shell helix ultra 5w-40?

i am quite keen to go for 40 because 30 is too thin i think.... or maybe just me....or just mobil 1 that's making the noise, hate it.... :(

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Originally Posted by petsfact

i used mobil1 10w-30 at 20000km service, to be honest it's smooth but also LOUD!

i am punching near 5000km in just 1.5 months can't wait to change to another oil "not better" but at least will reduce the tapping noise.

can anyone give me a good example like castrol 5w-30? motul 5w-40? shell helix ultra 5w-40?

i am quite keen to go for 40 because 30 is too thin i think.... or maybe just me....or just mobil 1 that's making the noise, hate it.... :(

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The noise if from Mobil1. Many forums (not only Honda) report that Mobil1 cause loud tappet noise. To go for the same level as Mobil1, you would have to go for Castrol 0w-40, Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 or Motul 8100 Xcess 5w-40. They are not 10w-30 though. You could go Motul 300V 5w-30, but that is an ester-based synthetic and much more expensive than a PAO.

Castrol 5w-30 is not the same type as Mobil1. The 5w-30 is a hydrocracked oil and is actually a mineral oil that protects as well as a synthetic but lasts only as long as a mineral.

Give Castrol 0w-40 a try. It's not as quiet as 5w-30 but it is smoother.

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Originally Posted by petsfact

motul 300v chrono or 8100 excess?

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8100, the 300v is a bit of an overkill for a street car.. I would put it in if it was cheaper :)

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Follow my method, and you can VTEC and stay above 5000rpm for a total of 90 minutes without drinking ANY oil. NO change in oil level, no oily exhaust.

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LOAD LOAD & MORE LOAD!!!! :)

but i remember someone on the forum saying don't go 2 steps down or up from the factory recommendation. isn't 0w 2 steps down than 10w?

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Originally Posted by petsfact

but i remember someone on the forum saying don't go 2 steps down or up from the factory recommendation. isn't 0w 2 steps down than 10w?

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2 steps down for the 2nd number
1st number is SAE oil viscosity equivalent at -18ºC, while 2nd number is SAE equivalent at 100ºC.
The first number 10w means it has a viscosity like an SAE10 oil at -18ºC. 5w means SAE5. 0w means it is the same as 5w, but it can be poured at a lower temperature (10ºC lower than 5w before becoming not liquid enough to flow).

So 1 step down from 10w is 5w, while 0w is the same as 5w but has better flow capacity at lower temperature.

At the upper end it is like normal for 100ºC. 30 means equivalent to SAE30, and so on. I wouldn't go even 1 step down, as that means the oil (20) is very thin. Going up 1 step is ok. Going 2 steps up is not as good, because it is too viscous and cannot get in between the 2 metal surfaces in small gaps in a fine tolerance engine.

hmm... i normally let my car warm up for a few minutes when its really cold... is it really that bad for the car?

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Originally Posted by Chris_F

hmm... i normally let my car warm up for a few minutes when its really cold... is it really that bad for the car?

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I usually turn the car on, leave it idle for 30 seconds to get the oil flowing. Then depending on the coolant temperature. I usually wait until 20ºC, which is pretty quick. That means in summer, I just wait for the 30 seconds and then drive off as the oil temperature is already 30ºC.