dc5r q's

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nepolian

Please explain on how it is going backwards?? As far as I know stock K20A2 makes 147 KW (AUDM DC5) and JDM K20A's make 160 KW stock. I'd say the difference would be higher with I/H/E. It is common knowledge that there is 10 - 15 KW difference ATW.

Upgrading to Toda cams and springs cost $$ More labour to insert springs, need heavy duty tensioner etc.......need ECU to run aswell......and IMHO theres about 3k's difference in gettin Toda V JDM, hows that 'Not that much difference?

As far as I know, you can run the JDM cams without ecu change (correct me if Im wrong), without spring change and they can be had for under $500. Obviously up to the individual on how much they want to spend of course.

Dont get me wrong, Toda upgrade is great, but not everyone wants to spend 4k's on a N/A upgrade.

Just thought people should know other forms of mild upgrades without thinking that they'll have to spend heaps.

Peace :)

---

I'm not trying to start fire anyone in here....but as 45set mention......ppl keep saying hondata is this good....that good.....yeah I also agree hondata is a good product and I may also upgrade to it in later stage when I start do some internal work of mine....but if I do a mod I will only do the way that I think it worth it.....as I know there is cams which still can use ur oem ECU then why spend couple of hundred for 3-5 kw gain? if you want to get similar output as jdm you need to change cam, pistons, intake manifold.......valve springs and retainers are the same....once I touch internal I will prefer to spend a little more and do it once....hence most ppl dun wanna to re-do any work in the later stage.......in that case you save up some labour cost and time in the long run......

Everyone do mod their car up in different way and there is no rite and wrong.....as long as you enjoy and have fun......we all here to share some experience and try to learn more yeah? Sorry to keep this long and hope very one have a great chinese new year anywayz......:thumbsup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 45SET

i think your the one that keens to chill... everyone is differant, and its quiet obvious that he has done his research and decided to go with the Mugen option. If you would take the time to read air23box's mod list, you would notice that most of his modifications are Mugen, so infact, the Mugen ECU would be a good option, as it optimises what mods he already has.



Same argument for Mugen/plug-&-play ECU vs Hondata.

With a Mugen/plug-&-play ECU you plug it in and see the gains stright away. Where as with a Hondata you have to have the original outlay (which is more then Mugen to start with), then get it tuned... then when ever you do a new mod get it tuned again...

I'm not saying that Mugen/plug-&-play is the best kind of ECU (I'll probably go Hondata if I do change my ECU) but I'm showing the "other side of the coin" and being open minded about the subject (which some of you really need to learn).

Now... play nice kids :thumbsup:

---

CORRECT :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 45SET

i think your the one that keens to chill... everyone is differant, and its quiet obvious that he has done his research and decided to go with the Mugen option. If you would take the time to read air23box's mod list, you would notice that most of his modifications are Mugen, so infact, the Mugen ECU would be a good option, as it optimises what mods he already has.

---

Thats excetly what I mean....thx for doing that......:thumbsup: