If you are skilled in the use of an angle grinder, you won't lose your finger. But yeah, if you aren't, pay someone to machine it for you. It's safer. You still want to be able to do this =>:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by aimre
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If you are skilled in the use of an angle grinder, you won't lose your finger. But yeah, if you aren't, pay someone to machine it for you. It's safer. You still want to be able to do this =>:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by aimre
You wouldn't wanna get a $40 short shifter anyway cause they're sh*t & not very strong. On the other hand if you want like a B&M one it should set you back $70-$80. My dual bend one which sits closer to the driver set me back $100. So yeah just giving u an idea of the prices. Also check out BuddyClub... heard they're alright.
Not very strong? What do you base this on? Have you ever broken one?Quote:
Originally Posted by NightKids
I've been running one for over 2 years and it hasn't broken yet... Don't slam it hard into gear - slamming doesn't mean fast. You can be gentle, precise and fast at the same time.
Fast and furious style yO! :thumbdwn:Quote:
Originally Posted by string
Yes i have flexed one so that's what i have based it on....Quote:
Originally Posted by string
Care to give more information than "I have flexed one"? Did it actually break? To even bend a chunk of aluminium that size, consider what damage you just did to your transmission...Quote:
Originally Posted by NightKids
The short shifter actually bent (the aluminium) because it was weak. And this was a straight shifter. No problems with my B&M one now & it's a dual bend so think of the difference in quality. My transmission is still fine but the short shifter isn't....
U must have a hell of an arm on u to bend a shifter! Just kiddin man!
I got an integra n the thread on the stock shifter was a good 3cm long so i just cut it down 2 about half a cm with a basic hacksaw. (Dnt kno if the thread on the civics would be quite that long tho)
This actually made quite a difference, feels nice n its a matter of flickng my wrist 2 change from 1/2 or 3/4 now! Its good! Stock gearknob still screws on without a prob as well as my aftermarket 1.
The integra shifters r already quite short tho, so that 2.5 cm that i cut off seemed like quite a bit, not sure if it would work out but i suggest u give it a go n if u dont like it well cut more off or just get a proper shortshifter off ebay.
Might work, but might destroy some of the Honda levers. The gear lever on at least some of the Honda cable shifters (e.g. CB7 Accord) is hollow below the threaded section (i.e. the tapered bit and shaft below), so if you try to reduce it's diameter you will at least make the wall thickness a lot thinner and may cut right through it. Of course this isn't an issue if the shaft is solid.Quote:
Originally Posted by claymore
I modded my CB7 cable shifter to reduce both longitudinal and lateral throw by relocating the cable to lever attachment points (cutting / welding involved). The shift throw is much shorter and the lever height is stock, definitely a worthwhile improvement.
What I'd really like to do is to lengthen the lever so that the distance from wheel to lever is a lot less, but then I'd have a long shift again. It would be possible to then further tighten the shift throw, but the shift cables would need to be significantly relocated and would end up being above the little odds and sods tray below the CD player (rather than hidden below the tray).
i'd say watch out for the synchro problem man, if ur not having trouble with it atm, dont bother, cause now, pushing the car and shifting at major speed by smashing it into the next gear, crunching is inevitable. but i figured with MOTUL gear fluid is the best and that has decreased to zero!! HAPPY BOY NOW
(not really pitching my 2c am i? lol, motul rocks) if u get ur hands on a welder, jst cut and weld the thread back on, thats whats on my car
tezza88,
I've had one of the Motul gear oils (can't remember which) in the old CB7 box for a couple of years. When I changed the oil the shift instantly became noticably slicker, but I don't know whether this was because the oil was synthetic or just because it was new, as opposed to what was probably 15 year old engine oil (not even the Honda MTF).
I do have some slight synchro weakness on third gear, but it's only crunches if I make a careless shift. I now have a long lever (about 100mm longer than stock), but still have a much shorter than stock shift throw. Shift lever is also bent to the right and the shift knob is now very conveniently placed so the left hand just drops onto it with little motion and the shift is 'snick-click'. Shift effort is a bit higher than stock, which is light anyway. I've also replaced the shift cable rubber bushes with metal bushes, I can now feel the metal bits inside the box through the lever!