Ohlins X Eibach for RB1!!!!!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mugen_Retro

I am thinking to get a new set coil as well, am sitting on D2 and it is no good, clocking sound heard quite loud from driver seat. not sure wats going on.
Appart from the money, what is the suspension u guys always dreaming for ur rb1?

---

if u want to explore new products, would suggest the following (pls note i've never experienced flwg products but was on my shopping list before):

JIC Magic
http://www.jic-magic.co.jp/suspension.html
http://www.jic-magic.com/ViewProduct...?ProductID=226

Tababe SusTec Five/Seven with TEAS:
http://www.rd-tanabe.com/lineup/sust...ive/index.html
http://www.rd-tanabe.com/lineup/sust...ven/index.html

My dream coilover will be Tanabe SusTec Pro AirCobra if i can sell mine at decent price:
http://www.rd-tanabe.com/lineup/sust...bra/index.html

Evo, any updates on ur brand new coil? install it yet?

Aus, what decent prize r u thinking for ur ohlins? haha..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mugen_Retro

Evo, any updates on ur brand new coil? install it yet?

---

Coils went in as planned, been driving around on it for a week + now. To me it is more comfortable compared to my previous set due to lower spring rates and has better dampening. No change in height as I maintained the old height of the car. But for the price I got it for, I think it's bang for buck.

bumping an old thread.

did you guys have to change anything for the front regarding camber when fitting coilovers? or the natural camber after lowing is ok?

thanks

i think depends on the spec of your front wheel man. aggressive width and offset need guard works plus camber setting. you can always get a set of SPC camber bolt for adjustment but result to max/min from -1.5 deg/+1.5 deg

I installed SPC camber bolts in the front and SPC camber arms on the rear from the outset because my main aim was to ensure that my tyres didn't wear unevenly. So far it seems to be working pretty well.

thanks AusAccord and evolution.

so part no. 67135 -1.5 to +1.5 works well, we don't need +1.5 to +3.0 right?

http://www.spcalignment.com/specprod...c&task=details

I think the part number is 67125.

I don't know if it will be enough because it also depends on what wheels you are getting and if more camber is required to fit them.

The lowest I have gone is 1 finger fender gap all round and the front camber ball joint (sorry not camber bolts, got it mixed up with the ones on my Civic) was set at about -1. My rolling spec is 18x7.5 +42 with 225/45 tyres.

i will try to fit my 18x7.5+48 front and 18x7.5+42 back initially and planning to have 1 finger gap as well. if i have spare cash i might go 19x8.5+38/4x front.

evolution, with your setup, do you scrap anything on the road/speed bump??

thanks

You won't be needing much -ve camber on those 18" specs, in fact think the
19" specs should be fine as well.. The SPC camber ball joints will do the
job.

Generally I was able to get around most places without much issue except
steep inclines(when going up) and steep slopes (when going down) and large
humps. It takes a bit of getting used to.

The underside of my front Modulo lip is pretty scratched (but no cracks)
due to steep slopes and huge humps, I have scrapped my front under arm bar
a fair few times due to the super huge hump at my children's child care and
a few here and there on other huge humps, not sure if I would scrap without the under arm bar thought. HKS exhaust resonator scrapped like there was no tomorrow, but that was put right very quickly with hotdogs.

I have since raise my car up a bit to 1 1/2 finger gap front and 2 finger
rear. and I haven't scrapped on anything plus I tend to take it slow when I
think the car will scrap + I snake around big humps

here is a pic of my undercarriage, I think the front under arm bar might havesaved
the car from more serious stuff.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...y/IMG_3257.jpg

wow so much scratch on the bars. definitely saved the chassis by the look of it.

thanks heaps for your comments. very much appreciated.