Just remember that if you go for a k20a lightweight or oem flywheel, you need a k20a clutch and pressure plate to match. If you want to keep the stock size, look at Comptech or Fidanza who do parts for k24a.
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Fair enough.
I notice you've got the Exedy lightweight fly (9 lbs)? Aside from the obvious changes, have you noticed anything annoying like excessive transmission noise or clicking? What clutch have you got to go with it?
Everyone in the DC2 Vti-R light flywheel thread is like "lighter damnit lighter lighter!" so maybe I should skip the JDM k20a and go for something a little lighter (while being reasonable money wise).
sorry if this is hijacking or going off-topic, but i just wanna kno.
aarong, u mentioned that revving while having the clutch in is bad. so i assume this also means that rev-matching while down shifting is bad also? which of the two would u recommend to trade-off?? unless u suggest to blip the throttle in neutral with foot off the clutch...
Sorry fellows I just had to bring this topic up because I have the same problem. I am searching the cause of this problem for about three months and I am almost very mad. The noise is very annoying and embarrassing. I am so sick of "what the hell was that" questions when I drive non-alone in my car.
Please tell me what part exactly should I change to stop this madness? Is it the release bearing for certainty? Is there someone there who changed only the release bearing and got rid of this noise?
Please people, help me to solve this out. I am kind of desperate yet.
Hey guys,
I've recently been to Honda and had a chat.
They've told me the suspect noise is most likely due to a hot spot or spots that's been created on the flywheel by the clutch.
When slipping the clutch (normal operation) the input shaft vibrates from the hot spot on the flywheel creating the noise we hear.
They have not yet found a euro with the throw out bearing problem. It always goes back to the hot spot on the flywheel. And then, Honda Australia won't cover this under warranty unless they find something that is wrong with the clutch/flywheel to create this hot spot / noise. If not. They simply put it down to driver error.
They said they will pull the clutch down, but 99.9% guarantee me that is what the problem is & Honda Aust will not cover it.
Had anybody else gone through warranty @ Honda re this issue yet?
tknova, can you please explain how this "hot spots" on the flywheels are actually causing this input shaft vibration? I just can not understand it and can not find the correlation between "hot spots" and vibrating the input shaft. Moreover I can successfully reproduce the problem when the car is cold (the car has stayed for 2 days in the garage) and I use the clutch for the very first time.
My theory about the noise is that the inner diameter of the diaphragm spring rubs to the release bearing (thrust bearing) which is normal, but in some very specific conditions (engine rpms, clutch pedal position, going up hill... etc) the noise is created.
Any other theories, please?
Sorry for my bad English... I am working on it. :o
That sounds like the clutch release bearing for sure. I have never heard of this "hot spots" on the flywheel. SOunds like a crock of shit to me.
Clutch release bearing is worn from either holding the clutch down at traffic lights or revving the engine when the clutch is pressed down.
Any manual car will eventually have a worn clutch release bearing. It is meant to last the life of the clutch and is replaced at the same time when you replace your clutch. It should not be taken as an Euro-specific problem.
BTW, I drive my car hard and went to 6 track days. Never had this noise because I don't hold my clutch down at the lights, nor rev my engine when I hold the clutch down like how they do in F&F.
um.. aaronng..
I sometimes i rev the engine when clutch is pressed, because i want to match the rev.
like sometimes, say im on 45k on neutral, then when i want to put on 3rd gear, i need to rev the engine a bit the match the rev, so i need to do so when clutch is pressed...
is that ok...?
thanks!
If it is just blipping the throttle, that's fine. The one that causes damage is holding the clutch pedal down at the traffic lights (that's a few minutes at 700rpm at every light that you stop at) and the racer who holds the clutch pedal down, revs to the 4500rpm limiter for many seconds to show off and then dump the clutch at 4500rpm to launch off the line.
got ya! great... thx 4 clearing it up!! :)