Do you need glasses? cant you read!
I do have a fair bit of faith in Toda. But there was a crap load of wheel spin.....maybe it would be higher
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good thread gents... sorry been missing, updated first thread for catalogue purposes.
is there anyway we can keep the img's somewhere else so they don't actually disappear?
dyno numbers are irrelevant... take it down the 1/4 mile and run some mph
Sounds like a good idea james. I got other dyno sheets, but not sure which ones ozhonda are after, maybe Adrian should post them. But i do know that the track times are incredible up here in queensland. I would think if the dyno was done in 5th gear the readings would be lower than what they should be, who knows. Is 'one to pin' one of the highest powered k21.5 in aus?
doesnt much difference if its done in 5th or 4th, only 1-2kw differences. Yes even tho you can improve in your track time, you'll be curious to know what mph it can pull down the 1/4 mile
I guess ppl with high dyno numbers have some kind of bragging rights over their big build to justify the money spent.
Yes your car is probably one of the highest. i woiuld of still would of opted for a k24 bottom end (drh 195kw?)
as yonas said, phill's car produced 198kwatw...most powerfull NA k in aus.
as for the reason why people would go the 2.2 stroker over the k24 bottom, is that its a very strong/reliable engine with a power curve suited for the track (thats what i've been told anyway)...
I would go 2.4L anyday! I raced with the K24 (complete stock k24) at eastern creek for 6-10lap constantly on the rev limiter and it just loves it. If your car aint a dedicated race car or endurance race car k24 all the way.
abit ot but here is a short clip...gota love 6 speed gearbox
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rm79CW-O7nQ&feature=channel_page
IMO the k24 is much cheaper engine to build and plus you can get the same if not more result with the same amount of $$$ spent on a stroker kit.
Check out the K24 powered Time Attack Civic in the states... simple build and quick
This is getting very political, but here are the results from my first ever time at lakeside. The times do show results. http://www.qldraceways.com.au/Admini...riesforweb.pdf
Benson give it a rest. Timmy never mind man you know how much of a difference your car is now compared to before. From the looks of things you are happy and you are whooping ass! Isnt that all that matters?
If it were up to Benson, buying Toda parts or just associating with TODA will be a criminal offense.
Dont start this shit again
Get back on topic!
Thats good to hear Tim. But its just for people who might be curious to know what MPH the car can run. Noone is dissing your build or engine package. Its just a good comparison to other Kseries engine builds.
It will also be a good indication to help people decide on such a build depedning on budget and etc.
And delsol9000rpm grow up:thumbdwn:
Back on topic!
Engine - K20A
Displacement - 2.0
Bore - Stock
Stroke - Stock
CR - Stock
Camshaft - Toda
VTEC X-Over - 5800 I think
This run with;
Stock airbox (unmodded) with stock air filter, aftermarket cams, headers and 2.5" exhaust.
http://i43.tinypic.com/2janc47.jpg
nice power :thumbsup: What spec cams are you running?
Benson you need a reality check :thumbdwn:
^^^as said.. i've noticed a few Kseries dyno slips now with "Toda" cams... we need to know exactly which ones fellas.. unless it's a secret new grind
This is the final word from the shit layed on my builds dyno results! If you can win a trophy at superlap, step up and show it, if you can be 2.8s behind a porsche carrera cup race car at lakeside, then step up. I have always been a really strong ozhonda supporter, wear the shirts, and the prints on the car. Where is your respect!!
Results are on www.queenslandraceway.com.au
2 race meets with the Toda Built Engine, 2 wins. Both wins are greater than 2 seconds per lap. Step up keyboard warriors.
^^^erm was that aimed at me? no disrespect here... as the thread starter i clearly stated in the first post that this thread was about powerband and cams. Unlike the other dyno threads the purpose of this thread is to give build starters an idea of which cams will provide the powerband they want.
Now if you wanna be the one disrespecting this thread then delete your posts here and post them up in the many dyno brags threads. There are many combined members contributing in this thread that far outweigh what support to ozhonda you think you provide
GT3 RS/ cup car :S sounds liike the dc5 is damn quick regardless :thumbsup:
One is a road car, one is a full on race car, big difference.
^^^oh and while you answer it Nepolian can you please advise which Toda cam it is as well. Thanks :)
Thanks 2002TeGgY! Atleast some of us here think before we type!
WTF is wrong with you guy's??
Its obvious that I am running Toda cams as I stated it on atleast two occasions.
"SORRY" if I have mistakely typed in stock in front of my engine spec!
If people spend more time making an actual contribution rather than pick on every error anyone makes, we may have a decent thread and not one full of crap!
Further more, Tim was simply making a statement that his car was 2.8 seconds off the pace of a Porsche.........who gives a toss if it was a GT3 RS or a cup car, seriosly????.......look at the numbers he's getting on the dyno and track, he does not really need to prove his worth down the 1/4 as people who walk the talk know thats a easy low 12 on a decent run!
For the record, I'm running C spec cams and I'm sick of the keyboard warriors here who know and do JS!
hey nepolian you got some decent power there mate. well done!
just a question, are you running K PRO ecu? did you do a before and after power run on the dyno with the cams?
Can you please explain the flat spot between 52kph and 80kph?
Nepolian, yours has been added.
just noticed theres no H series yet? even stockers for standard or type s/euro?
Engine - H22a Type S
Displacement - 2.2
Bore - stock
Stroke - stock
CR - stock
Camshaft - stock
Camgear Settings - stock
VTEC X-Over - 4000rpm
Gearbox - 4.7 ITR
I/H/E -Budget 4-1 (US brand), Custom CAI with Blox Filter, 3inch
ECU - Crome Tuned by Dave
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/IMGP0501.jpg'
Nice results go the JDM H22A. They are a good torquey motor but limited quality after market parts availability :thumbsup:
Engine - b18c7
Displacement - Stock
Bore - Stock
Stroke - Stock
CR - Stock
Camshaft - Stock
Camgear Settings - Stock
VTEC X-Over - 5800
Gearbox - S80 ITR 4.785 (Stock)
I/H/E -Plazmaman CAI/5zigen Headers/2.5inch Mandrel bent exhaust.
ECU - Hondata S200 (Tuned by Adrian From TODA Racing)
Comments: Red Line was a completely Stock b18c7 Engine... Blue line is after adding H/E + Tuning
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/4425/louieegb18c7k.jpg
^^^was that mitchells car?
weird set of road speeds for 3rd gear 4.7 box,more like a 4.4........
was the before on stock ecu or s200 with previous tune?
na not my car jase,
the car did have the s200 but only had a base tune
yea its got the 4.7 ratio, it looks weird cause of his coilovers
what u guys got a EGc7s200 club going out your way or somethin?
just goes to show how conservative the hondata base maps are
still reckon its a 4.4 though,was he running out to 9+krpm or 19" wheels or similar?
na its cause of his coilovers!
its a 4.7 gearbox and all runs were in 4th gear.
Engine - B18C7
Displacement - 1.8L
Bore - Standard
Stroke - Standard
CR - 12.5:1
Camshaft - Skunk 2 Pro 3
Camgear Settings - Standard
VTEC X-Over - 6,500
Gearbox - Standard
I/H/E -Standard/5zigen/Ebay 2.5"
ECU - S300
http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q...enghe/dyno.jpg
I would like to receive comments. thanks.
Since you asked for comments, i reckon its a poor effort. Bad combo of parts and a standard motor with bolt-ons will make more power than your motor with less CR and less agressive cams
I reckon you need to rethink about the engine combo and go from there. This is a good example of more CR and bigger CAMS not working well together. Remember its the combo of parts used!
Hope i didnt sound to mean
I would have thought that those skunk2 pro3 cams would carry torque well over 9k rpm
skunk2 pro 3 will work with like a 85mm x 95mm (2.2L) high comp with extensive head work.
Not a bad effort with the above dyno graph.
Normally see them being used with 13.5+ compression as well
http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewt...t=4558&p=25543
http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewt...t=3787&p=22826
FWIW, Peng's car will make more power with a better intake & cat.
That is remove the factory airbox & filter & replace it with something better. (Injen, AEM, Mugen etc...)
The cat is still a ceramic unit also, there's probably a bit of power hiding here too.
The cam timing, though on zero's seems to be pretty much right with a clean smooth Vtec swap @ 6500rpm. (which is odd)
As a side note, if I was to guess the cam spec by how it tuned, rather than be told what they were...
To be honest I would have guessed them as Pro 1's rather than Pro 3's.
Just by the charaterisic of the output more than anything else.
That said, we've never seen Pro 3's used in this type of combination previously.
Other notes of interest,
We've never really seen more than 120~122kw @ the wheels using the OEM DC2 airbox.
Changing the filter to a high flow item does little or nothing to improve this due to proximity of filter to airbox inner surface.
Why would someone build something like this and use an OEM airbox and a crappy exhaust system?
i've seen a turbo setup with a GT2860RS, full custom kit and only have a stock exhaust when dynoing
Go fig some people dun seem to care
I was gonna add something to that last dyno post yesterday but thought not but since everyone else did, I would have expected much more that that from a pro3'd b18c7 with 12.5:1cr. Why put the motor together, are you 100% sure of the cr and the cams used? also it says u got s300 (is it untuned or wat???) Give us a reply peng.
Cheers.
Bit aggressive there Benny... Ease up...
Don't take this the wrong way,
I think your expectation is likely based on your assumption or hope that Pro 3 cams are capable of huge power gains over stock.
Reality is, in the guise of the engine shown they are probably not an ideal cam choice.
The results Peng has shown is current best power after tuning.
Now if you think you can do a better tuning job tuning the same combination.. Hey, I'm all ears...
If not, maybe don't be so critical & look at the whole picture rather than just one small part of it.
As for discrediting or paying out on Peng,
C'mon guys, lay off a bit & take this thread for what it is, informative...
Peng has shown his results so others can learn from it. (Good or bad)
Sure, his combination isn't ideal...
But he hasn't tried to hide that either.
To his credit, it's something he built at home with a friend.
& like it or not, it's still a lot better than many on this forum can do themselves...
na na its not that i think i can do a better tuning job or that im paying out on peng, its just that i have seen bolt-on, tuned b18c7's make roughly the same power as this. Its true that the intake is shit, especially for what hes got but that should be an easy fix, even some bent pipe and pod would do a better job. All im saying is that he could have spent alot less money and made roughly the same power, he did ask for coments so these are the coments.
Peng, try set urself up with a better intake system, Where did u get the cams and pistons, just to make sure, who knows, maybe the person that sold them to you thought they were pro3's but then again im not sure of how or were they were bought, and adrian im sure you know that this setup theoretially should make at least a little more power.
Pro1's would be on the mark.
hi all, after a long day of work, im very glad to see this many responses to my post. very appreciated for this.
thank you guys
because im not as smart as you Benny.:o
if I was good enough to put a V10 F1 engine in my shitty civic, you wouldn't have a chance to speak would ya? I would say "why would someone put a 150kw kinder garten B20 in a civic?"
so please do not always judge things at your own level, remember, everything has a reason for being done, so respect to people's choices. ;)
I'd like to see a stock B18C run super imposed over pengspengs. Not a real expert on B18C's but pengpeng's mid range looks alot better than most mildly modded B18's....to me anyway!
Not trying to shit stir here, but if you compare it to delsol9000's graphs (B18C with what I would consider std motor with good bolt-ons) it not really that bad, nice smooth power delivery without waiting for the vtec to kick in :)
My 2c's anyway!
You asked for comments, so i gave some. I didnt want to sound rude, but come on, if you build the engine, you need to finish it properly. You may as well not tune it until everything is done (All at least the intake and exhaust gets done). Clearly you will waste more money getting it retune with a new intake and exhaust system
Then again, its your money. Im just pointing out the most efficient way of doing things. Its up to you if you want to take those constructive advice and use them
yes mate, Im sure about the spec of my engine, because I tightened every bolt and nut by myself under my friend's guidiance, Pistons and con rods a forged and I put everything in with my own hands, machine work has been done at an engineering shop in accordance to the piston's specification, bearing clearances and torque specs to honda's specification.
Initially I had CTR CAMs but later on I found a good package on ebay with SK2 cams, valve springs and titanium retainers for a good price. this is the reason why they're in the engine now.
however, those Pro cams made more torque at low end thus more drivability for everyday driving. I haven't regret about putting them in.
and yes, I am running on S300 and it's been tuned by Adrian on saturday, im pretty happy with the improvement comparing to when it was not tuned. eventhough it doesn's make much top-end power, but over all it's very smooth.
Not at all agressive Adrian. If i was peng, i would of done the usual bolt-ons on a standard ITR motor and make 120-130kw depending if your smart at what bolt-ons you decide. Then from there, if you want more mid range, maybe change the bottom end (2.0l). Or if you dont want to change the bottom end because your in love with the b18c bottom end, add a set of entry level CAMS and get a set of quality ITB's.
At the end of the day, I just hate to see guys wasting all this money for little result. They seems to have no power goal set and budget!
Noone likes the B20vtec because they tend to break easily as many would say. Our B20 on stock sleeves has done over 8 days at the circuit with over 350 dyno pulls all the way to 9400rpm. If its weak it would of broken already!
i think benson's just getting at money well spent is just better than money thrown in without the expected results
now to kick it back on topic
Engine - b18c7
Displacement - stock
Bore - stock
Stroke - stock
CR - stock
Camshaft - buddyclub spec3+
Camgear Settings - aem cam gears, both set at 0deg
VTEC X-Over - stock
Gearbox - stock
I/H/E - 3" pipe with blox filter+velo stack, jdm 4-1, mugen twinloop
ECU - chipped p06(iirc) tuned with crome
for comparison sake, check out benson's post earlier in the thread when he puts a b20vtak up against my b18 on the same dyno
http://6ixx.net/misc/DSC_8265.jpg
With your CR , these cams should work fine, i think you need to add a good CAI and maybe match port your intake manifold to your header's, to get the best performance from your CR and cams, headwork must be carried out as i belive you head is restricting your flow with this combo.
Also ill look into a metal cat and a better exhaust system with a straight through muffler ( xforce)
With HIGH COMP ENGINES and AGGRESSIVE CAMS you need HEADWORK
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...9/IMGP0500.jpg
what kind of stein is it on your dyno paper? :eek:
:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
Bump this shiz up!
Engine - JDM B18CR
Displacement - 1.8
Bore - stock
Stroke - stock
CR - stock
Camshaft - stock
Camgear Settings - stock
VTEC X-Over - 4800rpm
Gearbox - B16A + 4.9 Final Drive + Quaife LSD
I/H/E - A-sport ITB's, Buddyclub Headers, Mugen Twinloop muffler w/ T1R B-pipe
ECU - Hondata S200 tuned by Dave + Scott @ Insight Motorsports (legends!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...a/_DSC7400.jpg
And a comparison of the same engine, but with stock DC2R intake manifold + larger throttle body instead of ITB's.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...a/_DSC7403.jpg
As you can see, with the ITB's it loses out on power at 8000rpm of about 5kws (can be fixed with cams/gears) but the midrange gains almost 20kw!
The car was OK with the stock ECU, but after the tune it's an absolute animal! Power, more power, more power, more power, then whack into next gear and you just keep on going. :D:D:D:D
interesting :thumbsup:
great to have that comparison on one graph, good stuff :thumbsup:
ill take the midrange warrior anyday thanks