lol ballin
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lol ballin
Genuine TE37's, 16x8 +38 with 195/45 front & 15x6.5 +35 195/50 rear..
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps6f29f69d.jpg
lol why 2 different sizes.... unusual...
Picked up OEM Access Rear lip for my car from an ozhonda member, will paint and chuck it on friday or sat. This means my replica type R lip is up for sale.
This weekends effort: illuminating the boot of my EK1 hatch. Springs put under the parcel clip screws to provide power, copper tape around the ends to contact the springs, 3528 warm white LED strips tucked out of the way into the gaps of the back half of the parcel shelf. Parcel shelf clips in and out without any wires!
Only downside is resisting the urge to play "I wear my sunglasses at night" every time I open the rear hatch in the evening now :)
http://oi39.tinypic.com/11r39ti.jpg
http://oi39.tinypic.com/2udz3sw.jpg
http://oi42.tinypic.com/x4ljzo.jpg
awesome effort and idea
pics of it lit up at night pls :)
I'll try to remember to take a shot later tonight - needless to say its more than adequate brightness wise :)
Should mention too, the power comes off the stock boot light ... so switching the boot on or off controls the parcel shelf too when the hatch is opened ...
sick, make a diy of it!
yeah a diy would be great information
picked up ek4 rear sway bar, oem ek foglight wires and oem ek foglight switch yesterday for $20 :)
Going to put the oem foglights back on in the coming weeks
I unregistered my EK4 :(
-_- Tried to sell it.... No luck, Its pretty MINT... Black EK4 Clean interior.... too bad I cant Sell on OZhonda... I don't post much and I don't BS too often enough to get REP for it. :p
So I thought I'd unregister it, Try and recondition the car even more when I have some spare cash. Then try to sell it for a higher price.
Too much low baller and tyre kickers... its no funny. (Sorry mods trying to stay on topic)
yeah I looked at your past posts and saw its black
looks very glossy,is it resprayed?
noticed you have promax sticker,good guys there
Nah Man.... not resprayed its just kept well... Don't know why ppl just dont believe u can keep a clean car... :'(
Even the Quarter panels bolts are still in place...
Been a while since I contributed to this thread - order on the way from US for new OEM EM1 rear sway bar, end links, brackets, bolts etc
According to Honda in Wollongong (don't know if anyone else can confirm), but parts are no longer available for the EK4/EM1 rsb except the self-locking nuts, everything else came up on the computer as no longer available when searching the Australian parts database. And the US prices on this site are up to 5 times cheaper, compared to what Honda would charge you, if they could get the parts.
For example, Honda gave me a trade price of $153 EACH for the end links (normal retail is $276), while on this site they are less than $50 each. Massive difference.
For complete rsb setup, including the bar it was $AU220. With delivery to Australia it's a total cost of about $300 delivered to my door. And it's all OEM/ brand new, not 15 years old.
I set up a US shipping address at MyUS.com, which cost a one-off fee of $10.
Hopefully it should give my car a closer to neutral setup combined with the 22mm fsb...
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/parts...rear-lower-arm
Lmzo. A sway bar has not much difference in integrity used vs new. The endlinks/bushes/brackets yes. But the sway bar is just a bar.
As long as the bar hasn't gone past its elastic limit (which it shouldn't on a car), it'll be the same as a bnib bar.
size doesnt matter. you better learn that
I picked up my ek4 16mm rear sway bar + unknown condition endlinks for $20 :D
btw noob question ctx or PHO: how do you tell if the endlinks are gone besides from hearing noises after its on the car.
Check for play in the endlinks. Move the bolt around (the stud that sticks out of the rubber) Its allowed to pivot but if you can move it in and out, side to side. Its gone, Shouldn't have any play, should only pivot.
All good ctx, I know that, but it's not the feel I'm going for in the car, just after a bit more of a neutral setup without going over the top.
If it was a b series, maybe different story, but I think 13mm rsb is more than enough for a d16
Just hoping it clears the exhaust piping!
Hondapartsdirect.com Still ship to Australia so you wont need a shipping forwarding service.
Picked up EK4 26mm Front sway bar and EM1 16mm Rear sway bar with kind of dead endlinks and d brackets for $40 f**k yeah!
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/8053/nnst.jpg
nice how much did it set you back? and where did you get them from?
Oh snap! So you were the one who snapped it up! :O
I know lucky DNYALL was lucky enough to hold it for you till next day, otherwise i woulda picked up both that night >.>
lol
Good catch though.
oh sad, grats on the pick up. I so wanted it, was so cheap :(
Mhm.. you talking about this Brace? ;)
http://i43.tinypic.com/2i1pp94.jpg
^^ lol
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/pu8ujyja.jpg
Pretty jelly looking at all the parts you guys were able to snap up.
All I did was give my civic a polish so it was red again, and then some idiot rear ended me :(
ouch that sucks , sorry to hear that. how bads the damage?
on a lighter note, picked up an oem ek9 grill
http://i.imgur.com/9OH7NbPl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6Qo4rqel.jpg
bad point its missing the the screws and clips that hold the grill section to the mould..if anyone can tell me what they are I'd greatly appreciate it :D (i think its a spring washer and a self tapping screw, but i'm not sure..)
It wasn't too bad, will definitely need a new bar though and the rear lip was smashed off.
On a positive note, the rest of the car is looking redder than ever. I used this turtle wax stuff, that has a red tint.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps47137b26.jpg
That coloured polish fades, it looks good initially but worse later in my experience with it.
Carayan, if you have small marks on the car it is better to buff them out properly than to use this stuff.
fitted dc2 seats via swapping inner rails. Feels comfy and certainly better then stock ek seats.
Will post pics tomorrow.
ahaha nah bro don't want to go hardout on seats, picked up these for cheap so why not?
And yeah i know, been busy as hell with exams and all ><" still got 2 left, one today and one next monday. But i saw your black rx8, fuark whats with you and black! hahaha
And yeah i'll pick it up in like 2-3 weeks or something.
http://i42.tinypic.com/295bnh3.jpg
Phone camera failed me, will get proper pictures up soon
would look good with the f7 lcas
oh wait
Installed a Wing
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...74625332_o.jpg
Bought myself some new cups
http://i44.tinypic.com/noh6rl.jpg
did some weight saving:
http://i.imgur.com/2Tt0iA1l.jpg
Any body looking buy a carbon fiber door + acrylic glass SET. If you are click the link below
http://www.importmonster.com.au/view...n%20door%20set
Cost $1800-$2000 deliver to Brisbane
New front/rear rotors and pads!
next is a complete suspension overhaul!
maybe some kings superlows be good for type R
and youre supposed to use the countersunk holes for the 2 screws holding the rotor on
ohh sorry we took the photo then we changed the screws realising they where incorrect, my bad. Due to the fact we noticed the screws were hanging out of the hole
the front rotors are rda ebc slotted's with bendix brake pads
The rear rotors and rda ebc and the pad's are RDA max gp pads, did not want to go all out on the expensive rear pads,
and we looked at the instructions that came with the rotors they are correct, a friend had also said the same thing.
im confused in regards to what is correct :
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...otor-direction
http://rdabrakes.com.au/page/Product-Rotors.aspx
here is a video that clearly depicts the difference
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OWM1wttWA8
has anyone tried the hard race rear lca's is there much difference between them and F7