Lets Talk d-series

Thanks i'm actually on there right now reading the N/A Noob setup section.

Here's my situation, i got a bit over 200,000km on my engine. It blows a cloud of smoke when I hit VTEC, like heaps! Been told that maybe my rings are gone. Got quoted $3000 for a OEM rebuild.

I've put a few things on there like a brand new Exedy HD Clutch, Exedy lightened flywheel & also did the major service which cost me $1000. Also have a SRI.

Seems like a real waste to just throw everything out and chuck a B series engine in. If I seperate, don't think there will be a big interest with my parts.

So what do you suggest I do? Looking to hit 100kw atw but this seems highly unrealistic with a N/A setup. A lot are only hitting around 80kw atw. Budget is around $2000-$3000.

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Originally Posted by beeza

I will need it too with the cam.

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lol, its still going through an auto box which will pull the power down quite considerably. If you were going turbo + cam + headwork + LSD or something along those lines i'd look at the bigger shafts.

Its really a matter of how the power is applied. If its a sudden application from a dead stop then you will either spin the wheels or break a shaft. If you have a standing start situation i recommend pre-loading the driveline.

In an auto you just have it in drive, left foot on the brake, right foot on the accelerator as far as you can without the car moving forward. Then release the brake and plant your foot on the accelerator :thumbsup:

Preload will save shafts, so you could probably stick with your new set you've already got.

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Originally Posted by NightKids

Thanks i'm actually on there right now reading the N/A Noob setup section.

Here's my situation, i got a bit over 200,000km on my engine. It blows a cloud of smoke when I hit VTEC, like heaps! Been told that maybe my rings are gone. Got quoted $3000 for a OEM rebuild.

I've put a few things on there like a brand new Exedy HD Clutch, Exedy lightened flywheel & also did the major service which cost me $1000. Also have a SRI.

Seems like a real waste to just throw everything out and chuck a B series engine in. If I seperate, don't think there will be a big interest with my parts.

So what do you suggest I do? Looking to hit 100kw atw but this seems highly unrealistic with a N/A setup. A lot are only hitting around 80kw atw. Budget is around $2000-$3000.

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What engine are you running ?

For a D16 single cam Vtec 100+kw can be done you just need P29 or PG6 pistons,Cyl head will need port blending only a good valve job good valve springs/retainers and a Bisi cam with a cam gear,a ported intake manifold fitted with a B16a TB Headers will need to be 44.5mm primary's with a 60mm exhaust.And the most important part SOMEONE that knows how to tune this setup and not some e-tuner that has no idea how an engine works and needs to be tuned.I have seen 99kw out of one of these setups using a STD cam but it was on the dyno for days playing around with it.To make that engine nice to drive it ended up with 92kw to make the best mid range power.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NightKids

Thanks i'm actually on there right now reading the N/A Noob setup section.

Here's my situation, i got a bit over 200,000km on my engine. It blows a cloud of smoke when I hit VTEC, like heaps! Been told that maybe my rings are gone. Got quoted $3000 for a OEM rebuild.

I've put a few things on there like a brand new Exedy HD Clutch, Exedy lightened flywheel & also did the major service which cost me $1000. Also have a SRI.

Seems like a real waste to just throw everything out and chuck a B series engine in. If I seperate, don't think there will be a big interest with my parts.

So what do you suggest I do? Looking to hit 100kw atw but this seems highly unrealistic with a N/A setup. A lot are only hitting around 80kw atw. Budget is around $2000-$3000.

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Unsure about power figures,d-series will know.

What engine is it?

I would get another Head,IM and TB.Send them off to Yonas.He can get headwork done,cleaned in the hot cold tank etc for $800-$1200.U can have a lil' milled off the head to for a lilttle bump in compression.Don't bother with a thinner headgasket it's not worth it for a .1 bump in compression.TB can be bored out to 60mm for $195 and a skunk2 IM.

The last section on this page should give U some understanding of the awesome benefits that come from p&p the head,then porting the IM and TB.

http://portandpolish.blogspot.com/

A stage 1 bisi cam requires no tuning,save on cost and will go hand in hand with the port work.

So now U have the new head,IM and TB to go in.When U get them put in U can do the rings and anything else that may need repairing when the head is off.

Maybe some high comp pistons if U have the extra cash.

The good thing about the stage 1 bisi cam is U dont need to upgrade the valves,springs and retainers.

Everyone on d-series will tell U stage 1 is a waste of time,it wont be to me.

If U have the money then go stage 2,upgraded valves,springs and retainers and tune with greddy or something = more money!

Why dont U sign up on d-series,tell them ya planned mods and ask what power will I be looking at,guys do it all the time.Note,they aren't familiar with kw's ,just hp lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JasonGilholme

lol, its still going through an auto box which will pull the power down quite considerably. If you were going turbo + cam + headwork + LSD or something along those lines i'd look at the bigger shafts.

Its really a matter of how the power is applied. If its a sudden application from a dead stop then you will either spin the wheels or break a shaft. If you have a standing start situation i recommend pre-loading the driveline.

In an auto you just have it in drive, left foot on the brake, right foot on the accelerator as far as you can without the car moving forward. Then release the brake and plant your foot on the accelerator :thumbsup:

Preload will save shafts, so you could probably stick with your new set you've already got.

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Preloading bogs my car,the best way i to just plant ity,trust me :p

If I break this driveshaft I'll get the hasports,doubt I will for a while though,I mean the last one was 120,000k's,70,000 of which was my driving :thumbsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NightKids

Thanks i'm actually on there right now reading the N/A Noob setup section.

Here's my situation, i got a bit over 200,000km on my engine. It blows a cloud of smoke when I hit VTEC, like heaps! Been told that maybe my rings are gone. Got quoted $3000 for a OEM rebuild.

I've put a few things on there like a brand new Exedy HD Clutch, Exedy lightened flywheel & also did the major service which cost me $1000. Also have a SRI.

Seems like a real waste to just throw everything out and chuck a B series engine in. If I seperate, don't think there will be a big interest with my parts.

So what do you suggest I do? Looking to hit 100kw atw but this seems highly unrealistic with a N/A setup. A lot are only hitting around 80kw atw. Budget is around $2000-$3000.

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The party pooper is here with some terrible truths:wave:

Low budget horspower from a D-series engine is a Myth!
There is no such thing as an Exedy lightened flywheel for a D-series...
Only really poor people dream about modifying D-series Honda's

Anyway... Wake up! & stop getting ripped off...
NightKids, your car sounds like it needs maintenance, not modification.
Your budget will just about cover a stock rebuild...
Why don't you just do that or get a stock transplant & keep some change in your pocket.
I vote do the latter...

& please... Stop buying parts that don't exist, it's sad.
(I'm not meaning to be offensive saying this)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

I would get another Head,IM and TB.Send them off to Yonas.He can get headwork done,cleaned in the hot cold tank etc for $800-$1200.U can have a lil' milled off the head to for a lilttle bump in compression.Don't bother with a thinner headgasket it's not worth it for a .1 bump in compression.TB can be bored out to 60mm for $195 and a skunk2 IM.

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LOL...
That's right fellas,
Send your spare head off to someone who hasn't a clue how to port it...
Experience has now been replaced by a machine....
Not a CNC head porter, no siree
Just a quick trip through the hot cold tank & "BAM!" it's ported! & clean!
F@cken wow!

Gotta get me one of those tanks... LOL

(No offence Yonas... That sentence was just too funny to leave alone)

You can get a B16a running gear for as low as 2k these days. Do the labour yourself and you'll be laughing at the D-series once your done

/\ Even better option... LOL

(Unless you're a D-seriesaphile)

there is no point tryna help boys, they dont listen , let them waste their monies., and still get beaten by a stock b16a

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

The party pooper is here with some terrible truths:wave:

Send your spare head off to someone who hasn't a clue how to port it...
Experience has now been replaced by a machine....
Not a CNC head porter, no siree
Just a quick trip through the hot cold tank & "BAM!" it's ported! & clean!
F@cken wow!

Gotta get me one of those tanks... LOL

(No offence Yonas... That sentence was just too funny to leave alone)

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lol you're not alone laughing

some people are quite interesting eh....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

LOL...
That's right fellas,
Send your spare head off to someone who hasn't a clue how to port it...
Experience has now been replaced by a machine....
Not a CNC head porter, no siree
Just a quick trip through the hot cold tank & "BAM!" it's ported! & clean!
F@cken wow!

Gotta get me one of those tanks... LOL

(No offence Yonas... That sentence was just too funny to leave alone)

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We are not the one who is doing it , one of my guy who got a machine shop doing it. Im happy with their work.

To be honest just B series it , easier to get power.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TODA AU

The party pooper is here with some terrible truths:wave:

Low budget horspower from a D-series engine is a Myth!
There is no such thing as an Exedy lightened flywheel for a D-series...
Only really poor people dream about modifying D-series Honda's

Anyway... Wake up! & stop getting ripped off...
NightKids, your car sounds like it needs maintenance, not modification.
Your budget will just about cover a stock rebuild...
Why don't you just do that or get a stock transplant & keep some change in your pocket.
I vote do the latter...

& please... Stop buying parts that don't exist, it's sad.
(I'm not meaning to be offensive saying this)


LOL...
That's right fellas,
Send your spare head off to someone who hasn't a clue how to port it...
Experience has now been replaced by a machine....
Not a CNC head porter, no siree
Just a quick trip through the hot cold tank & "BAM!" it's ported! & clean!
F@cken wow!

Gotta get me one of those tanks... LOL

(No offence Yonas... That sentence was just too funny to leave alone)

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What da hell do you mean I'm buying parts that don't exist? You freaken calling me a liar or something? Well I hate to break the terrible truth to ya but Exedy lightened flywheel do exist for the D-Series. Here's the packaging I have at home to 'prove' that I did really buy the parts.

http://img2.pict.com/58/12/65/2852750/0/dscn1481.jpg

http://img2.pict.com/c8/85/09/2852751/0/dscn1482.jpg

Here's the link with the information. http://www.racinglab.com/exedy-flywheel-hf501.html

Acura/Honda (D-Series) Exedy Lightweight Flywheel (HF501)

Honda
1990-91 Civic 1.5L D15
1992-95 Civic 1.5L D15
1990-91 Civic 1.6L D16 SOHC
1992-00 Civic 1.6L D16 SOHC
2001-05 Civic 1.7L D17 SOHC

And just in case you say it's not right, doesn't fit... I have it in my car atm!

You may be a respected tuner... blah blah blah, but seriously that post just made you sound like a douchebag. I'm simply looking at my options cause if I don't need to go B-series for my power expectations then I won't, providing it'll be a realistic with $$$. At the end I may end up with the B-series but it doesn't help to do some research, which you obviously haven't done in regards to the D-series flywheel. Do your research before you acuse someone next time, it's sad.

how much taht set you back?