hmmm, nah, i might leave it up to you 'calculate' my power output from my 1/4 ET, MPH and vehicle weight? fair deal?Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
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hmmm, nah, i might leave it up to you 'calculate' my power output from my 1/4 ET, MPH and vehicle weight? fair deal?Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
Deal!Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
I'll need weight of your car, friction of your tyres, what sort of raod base used on the 1/4 mile, wind factors, gear ratios, shift speeds (hope you timed yourself otherwise it might be hard to get an accurate calculation), and last but not least your MPH.
(not serious, just taking the piss out of it)
1/4 mile times are silly to try and calculate numbers, you don't know what's been done in terms of weight reduction, aerodynamics, ect.
doh! so how do we work out who has the largest penis then?Quote:
Originally Posted by newpaddy3
ummm... engine displacement?Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
hmmm, perhaps BMEP might be worth a look?
I'd support that, on a side note to back that up the Zonda R has a 6L engine making 750HP and Holden have a 6L engine making 360HP.
And to keep this thread related I'm thinking I might go ls/vtec, seems cheaper than an engine conversion plus I can keep the same engine number too.
the B20VTEC principles all equally apply to LSVTEC, and the two benefits you list are pretty good for those on a budget...
you say no engine 'swaps', but i still would recommend doing it by removing the engine from the car to build it...
Yeah I understand there is a lot of work needed to prep the block.
I don't say no to engine swaps, I just think sometimes it's cheaper to work with what you got. Not all the time though.
If I was to get a slighty higher compression piston would I have to upgrade anything else? Bolts ect?
And what's the danger of going to high a compression? Piston to valve contact? If there is enough clearance would anything else be an issue?
what CR are you planning?
Well I'm not really sure to be honest, I'd like to extract a decent amount of power out of it yet I still want it to be reliable because it's a daily driver.
It's a B18B so it has a compression ratio of 9.2:1 and I understand that changing the vtec head over will affect the compression ratio.
here are a few good places to start playing with ideas:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c...c/compcalc.php
http://www.zealautowerks.com/
My Old EG back in the days with a internally OEM B18cR motor with Intake, headers, exhaust and tune ran 13.6@103mph. This was on road tyres.
Power figures between different dyno's are irrelevant. 120kw from dyno A can mean 140kw at dyno B. The real result is on the circuit and 1/4mile. Track Times do the talking, dyno numbers are just to wank over
*DLO01 Edit* removed detail to keep the peace