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you can use your standard injectors and fuel pump for the moment to save you some cash caz your not going big boost, i had a T25G on my car and you will expect to see about 3000 RPM before boost comes on but this is what a normal turbo car has to wait till.
my manifold was about $800
Take the AFC to get a tuner to tune it though will only cost about 200-300 for it then you know its all sweet !
and luke mine is still here :P
I know Ryan but you have like 7 other cars to drive if she pops :pQuote:
Originally Posted by lookingforboost
Quote:
Originally Posted by VTECnique
yeh.........me too...............Quote:
Originally Posted by Riced_Civic
sorry if i havent red everything but AFC for a turbo conversion sux balls.
the amount you are going to trim away from the injector when not on boost is alot. timing will advance there. If you pull it back at the dizzy then off boost performance suffers and it really will drive like a dog. Plus AFC cannot accurately tune via load. it tunes via tps when is never a good idea with a turbocharged car. you need to tune via kpa/psi etc.\
Ill give you an example you can go up a hill using 50% tps and it makes full boost. But you can go the same tps on flat ground at the same rpm and make no boost. So how do you trim it. Its rubbish. After all the time and moeny invested the engine is not going to last lost running on crap management and to be honest no good tuner will want to tune a boosted car using a piggyback that can only go TPS vs RPM.
On my setup I had an AFC NEo in there from when it was NA. Keep in mind it was already in the there so I thougth lets see how shit this thing is. It didnt take long (a week) to realise its crap to tune and there no way to tune what I want when I want. So I went a standalone ECu, made a plug in loom for it and never looked back. Put timing where you want. Put fuel accurately where you want.
You have chosen some sensible parts up until the management choice.
Do that right and you will not have a mission in tuning the thing.
since you got a honda just get a chipped ecu. or get some parts to chip it yourself from xenocron.
If you use a chipped ecu you can have datalogging capabilities when will help you alot. THis is if you want to road tune the car yourself or with the help of someone else.
An air fuel gauge alone will not be of any help in tuning the car reliably. Those air fuel gauges that run off the narrowband signal are worthless for anything other than for the ECu to run closed loop o2 to get 14.7 at cruise/low load conditions for fuel economy.
What you need is a wideband o2 sensor kit. They will come with a controller and wideband o2 sensor at the least. Whether the controller has inbuilt datalogging depends on what you get. But If you use an ECU with datalogging capabilities you do not need to worry but the controller have such features.
Innovate got some
PLX
AEM
NGK got one
TechEdge
I personally use a TechEdge and it does the trick.
DUDE i cannot STRESS ENOUGH ON TUNNING..
u want reliablity??? you want a fun and safe turbod d series single slammer... invest in tunning.. INVEST INVEST INVEST... jesus.. please tell me what afc is going to do..
buy proecu or hondata ... tune that beast slap on the road.... but dont listen to us saying you need to invest in tunning.. soo please go ahead of tunning with afc and i give u.. 2-3months till ur engine falls breaks apart btw im not having a go at you.. i think every1 would agree
hmmmm tou chay :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
regardless i have seen many cars tuned with an AFC hack and they do work they are not better then a full computer and i will not dispute that but with a good tuner that knows what they are doing as long as he runs low boost then there is no reason why it wont work and reliably as i have seen it in the past work just keep it to 5-6psi and should be ok
afc hack was a neat little trick for DIYers on a very tight budget about 150 years ago now(well in technology years anyway).
it was very hit & miss,a lot of the cars not ever being able to deal with the timing issues,especially the part throttle timing,let alone the top end.If this car is gonna be pushed to 8-10psi like he is saying,thats when things started to get messy,above that, 11psi plus, it got really messy.
seems the only people messing with it these days,either had one lying around in the garage or just cant bare to not have a pretty little colour screen on the dash.there are so many other, better,just as affordable solutions these days,why would u bother.........
i'll grant one thing.....u will learn a lot & fast at tryin to get tha afc hack up & running decently,but at the price of a new motor,thats $500 odd bucks u could of bought a better management system with in the first place,plus the time & hassle in swapping it in....
totally agree. There are not that many tuners out in AU who will do the AFC hack cos its risky to them also. If something goes wrong the tuner gets blamed first.
I know D series motors go for about $300 but its the time & wasted effort
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
I knew id get flamed for using the afc hack. so here's my reasons.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
chipped ecu $200ish
harness EK1 to OBD1 $250
OBD2 dizzy $100
tuning $300+ plus the fact i have to drive the car down south from cairns to get it tuned from a reputable honda tuner
OR
moates ostrich 2 eprom emulator, usb datalogging cable, innovate LC1 wideband controller, laptop $1000ish to tune it myself
AFC Neo $500 & the ability to adjust settings without any addons. I know its not the best, but ive heard good & bad stories about them. i guess its something im willing to take a chance on, because if i do blow the engine, $200-300 for a block.
iced - timing will advance there. If you pull it back at the dizzy then off boost performance suffers and it really will drive like a dog.
again, a reason for such a small turbo, is so it spools up quicker in the rev range to make up for out of boost timing...
If ur gonna use the AFC without any "addons" then your gonna limit your adjustability to just tricking the ECU out of seeing boost(u could prob achieve the same result with a $2 potentiometer from jaycar) & just hoping the larger injectors line up well with the stock fueling maps.
also the faster u spool onto full boost the quicker your gonna find out where the limitation is in dealing with the stock timing,unless u just adjust your driving style to avoiding those parts of the timing maps,u'll prob have to dial like 8deg off the dizzy to get around it,not pretty.
btw not flaming u dude,just want to see u get some decent results,if u dont like my opinions,just ignore them,problem with boost is it goes pop real quick when u get it wrong,maybe if u backed down your expectations on the boost limit,u'll get something going half decent.
just keep it to a nice and safe 5-6 psi and you can use the stock injectors and get the supporting mods around it setup right and it will be a great power improvment over the stock
I am pretty sure luke was using stock injectors and was running his D at 11psi but i would just get a bigger fuel pump to be on the safe side.
I would use that bit of saved money to get a good quality high flow exhaust setup and no muck around with cats from other cars etc dont get the exhaust right and even if it has injectors etc it wont make as much power as having a good exhaust on it
Other way round lolQuote:
Originally Posted by lookingforboost
I used the stock 240cc for a while but they started to fade round the 115/120kw mark.
I was running RC 440cc when at 11/12psi
Its the pump you can save on as the stock pump can handle 300hp there abouts... (Stock D16Y1) not sure if the Y4 rocks the same....
And yeah as Ryan says, a good 2.5" high flow exhaust is a must!!!
In fact that should be the first thing on your list IMO