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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyG
still not cheap as some people make it out to be
you always have to spend money no matter what engine you have to go fast
if it could be done 4 k drive in drive out to do 13's
i would do it today in one of my cars
and a 1 sec difference is not driver its more to do with the set up you have
dont sugar coat it guys we only want honest answers
No one has stated what a typical B20 + vtec + running gear + tuneable ecu + ecu is costing....anyone care to work it out roughly ?
Aight,, I'll use myself as an example..
i Drive a EM1. (b16).. how much am i looking at to get a b20 conversion done. Drive in drive out price. Any recommendations for Sydney people for where to go?
How much power can i expect from the most basic b20.
How much power can i expect from a b20 with ITR internals.
As i read above, some people claim to make 120kw odd on a basic b20.. someone else claimed to make 110kw odd with ITR internals..
Now why is there a huge difference in power figures?
1/4 mile times dont really mean much, when its different setup , different driver? different car?
Thank You.
Just to work out a real no bullshit quote what mods are done to your EM1 ?Quote:
Originally Posted by CB7_OWNER
ben i did at my post
and yes lan it may NOT be as cheap as expected BUT it will go better then your tradional b18c7 conversion
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyG
well a b20 is not a conversion its technically a engine build in my books
so of course its going to be better
at no stage did i say the b20 was anything less
just trying to get a straight response to what a decent b20 will cost and what times/power it will i get
and to see if its worth while doing for the cost compared to other motors like the k20/k24/h2b etc
because when i look at that parts list and cost and labour it starts to really add up
but if its doable for under 5 k like people have said
it will be a really good option for alot of people
dont get me wrong i spoke to a b20 eng builder when i had my b16 never got around to it
thats why im asking these q's
From the guys I've spoken to who have done B20 builds I think just a slap-on build (IE B16 stuck onto a B20 bottom with I/H/E) will make around 115-120kw ATW, whereas a fairly built one with a mod'd head/bottom will make around 150-160kw ATW.Quote:
Originally Posted by 90LAN
But the torque is what makes it such a killer.
Maybe ask Benson who I've been talking to a bit recently. He's running a H2B but has built a couple of B20VTECs for the track and seems to know a bit about them.
Hope this helps.
To help put things in perspective and help let people know the potential of a stockish b20vtec we did a b20vtec to our ITR over 2years ago when we spun a bottom end.
We needed a cheap replacement, so we had a slapper B20vtec bottom end lying around (decked). Nothing special really, just a real quick slapper with all spare parts used.
So the motor just basically replace the 1.8l ITR bottom end with the 2.0l B20 bottom end. Nothing else was changed, same bolt-ons was retain (DD custom 4-2-1 headers, Intake, ECU + tune). Motor ran 13.6@103mph with the ITR motor (124kw ATW). With the B20vtec, it ran 13.4@104mph (121kw ATW). Driver was the same!. Daily driving with the b20vtec is more noticable as well, didnt need as much throttle to get it around town
Even though it made less power and compression, the torque advantage over the ITR bottom end is comparable.
As for budget Lan, ASSUMING you have all the bolt-ons from the B18c, a GOOD V1 b20 bottom end can be had for around 2kish. Add labour to assemble it and get it in the car. Your looking at around 3kish to be safe, to get it all running. Some people can do it heaps cheaper if they do their own labour
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
thanks for the good informative reply
what about a basic build with no existing b series in your car
add another 4k - 5k ?
V1 B20 bottomend same as Phamburgers 133kw engine & MikeyG just under 120kw engine,this is if you already have a B/Vtec powered car and removed the engine yourself and supplied your current engine to this engine builder,he fits everything including the oil/water heat exchanger from your current setup,so please REMEMBER THIS IS THE LOWEST SPEC Version offered from him,and being a B20B8 engine they share the same oil pump as ITR/VtiR B18c and later B16a engines.
You Get
B20B8 bottomend
Completely stripped,chem cleaned,honed,decked block
CNC Notched STD B20 pistons (pic's will be posted later tonight)
New Hastings Piston Rings
Rods fitted with ARP Rod Bolts,Closed & Honed
ACL Race Bearings
OEM Bottomend Gasket Set
OEM B18C Timing Belt
OEM B18c Harmonic Balancer (if your current one is not suitable)
OEM B18c/B16a Water Pump
Golden Eagle Vtec Conversion kit with 0.030" head gasket
ARP Head Studs
Your oil pump stripped and modified and reshimed for higher oil pressure
It will cost $3500/4000 fully assembled depending on the dollar at time of engine build.
This package has run mid to low 13's in DC2R's/EG's and early CRX using ITR head/cams/intake manifolds fitted with a good set of headers and exhaust,this package will run fine on a STD ECU untill the owner can get it tuned.
My EM1 has CAI and a muffler. thats its. cause i would like a engine swap/rebuild in the future.. so i havent touched exhaust yet, as im not sure if it can be reused on a b20.Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
Thanks
For CB7_OWNER
With a setup for you there would be a few changes to the above setup I posted up.
B20B8 bottomend
Completely stripped,chem cleaned,honed,decked block
CNC Notched STD B20 pistons (pic's will be posted later tonight)
New Hastings Piston Rings
Rods fitted with ARP Rod Bolts,Closed & Honed
ACL Race Bearings
OEM Bottomend Gasket Set
OEM B18C Timing Belt
OEM Harmonic Balancer (your current one would be used)
OEM B18c/B16a Water Pump (your current one would be used)
Golden Eagle Vtec Conversion kit with 0.030" head gasket
ARP Head Studs
Your oil pump stripped and modified and reshimed for higher oil pressure your water pipe thermostat housing oil/water heat exchanger and all other bolt-ons would be used to keep costs down as much as possible this engine
using STD B16a header and exhaust,intake manifold TB will make 113-118kw your current ECU will run this fine till more mods are done again to keep the cost down with tuning and ECU upgrades.
It will cost $3000 fully assembled depending on the dollar at time of engine build if you want the head serviced while its off add another $800.
I will add more and change this over the next few days just waiting on some other prices about a drive in drive out deal.