I aint scared of the po-lice.
Just kidding.
Bludger il do it just for you, but gimme a buck ?
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I aint scared of the po-lice.
Just kidding.
Bludger il do it just for you, but gimme a buck ?
A good cold air intake with a nice pod filter and a good full exhaust system (headers, catback, axelback) will net a good amount of power for the cost and make the car sound 10 times better.
Save up for some good adjustable coilovers I highly recommend it over just replacing springs.
Don't waste your time on a vtec controller the vtec engagement point that it is set at now is ideal unless you've changed some internals and had a retune, then lowering or raising your vtec engagement point might net some gains.
Get a heavy duty clutch instead of the flywheel yes they do give you a bit of extra responsiveness, but the heavy duty clutch will benefit alot more when driving uhhh enthusiastically.
The HID's are a definite yes.
And yeah sound system is nice as long as you aren't driving around the main street of town with it maxed out and rattling the whole ****en car.
I suggest you remove the spoiler too gives the car a much cleaner look.
This is my old 93 lude with a type s h22a from the 5th gens swapped in.
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/6...8556391510.jpg
Oh almost forgot, SWAY BARS GET SOME SWAY BARS ASAP BEFORE ANYTHING.
Looks sexy !
Ahh where do i start, thats a really helpful post lol.
Cold air intake and full exhaust is ofcourse my first goal in the performance wishlist, just need to save up a bit.. Do you know approximately how much it will cost for each piece?
Coilovers may take a while for me to get the money for :( but i really hope i get a chance to grab them.
I'm not 100% sure about the vtec controllers purpose lol but i heard it controls where the vtec kicks in. It currently kicks in about 5500 rpm. When i redline (7450 rpm) and i change gears, the rpm drops to about 4600 rpm then it takes another 900 rpm for vtec to kick in again! Sorry if i didn't explain that properly but i hope you get me.
I like my clutch :P but im not sure what clutch it is, feels really good though.
The sounds system.. yea rattles a bit lol but im still working on it to make it sound as clean as possible. Should be buying a nice pioneer head unit today aswell :)
The spoilers staying on! even though yours looks so good without it lol. But i just dont get how it costs alot to remove a spoiler just because of them two holes.
Sway bars - Front and rear done ! They make the handling so nice and smooth.
Depends where from, what brand, if it's custom, what your budget is etc it's a hard question to answer.Quote:
Cold air intake and full exhaust is ofcourse my first goal in the performance wishlist, just need to save up a bit.. Do you know approximately how much it will cost for each piece?
I mean for headers alone you can spend like $150 on some cheapy dc sports ebay headers, or all the way up to $1000 for a set of bisimoto's or toda's.
5500 seems a bit high for vtec on a h22a, don't quote me on this but thought it was meant to be 4800 rpm for h22a's, my old preludes was at 4800 and my civics at 4800 which has a h22a from a 5th gen type s prelude as well.Quote:
I'm not 100% sure about the vtec controllers purpose lol but i heard it controls where the vtec kicks in. It currently kicks in about 5500 rpm. When i redline (7450 rpm) and i change gears, the rpm drops to about 4600 rpm then it takes another 900 rpm for vtec to kick in again! Sorry if i didn't explain that properly but i hope you get me.
Maybe it's cause mine was the Type S model?
Regardless, it won't get any benefits without a proper tune/replacing some interals such as more aggro cams, all you'll do by changing the crossover point is stuff things up and probably lose power, the engines designed with a certain vtec engagement point which is based off the components and current tune of the engine such as the profile of the cams, the tune it is currently set to etc.
Just cause it feels nice doesn't mean it's any good... often some heavy duty clutches make it feel like you're shifting gears in a bus, but at high RPM when shifting really fast makes it a hell of a lot better.Quote:
I like my clutch :P but im not sure what clutch it is, feels really good though.
You need to fill in the holes with putty, sand the bonnet back and respray it atleast 3-4 hours of labour right there. (That's if it's done properly)Quote:
But i just dont get how it costs alot to remove a spoiler just because of them two holes.
Thanks alot Wru. I'm looking mostly at getting a cold air intake setup at the moment since it's a really cheap performance upgrade and will probably fit my current budget :)
Okay guys I want to service my lude. Since you all know a lot more about Preludes than me could someone hit me up with specifically everything I should buy?
H22 does not need to rev its ass off like a b series to make power rev @ 7800 is ample. Its called tq. Just call for the correct engine combo. H2b setups are reving @ 7500-7800 and running 11sec + with bolt on mods.
H22 need to breath, I'd suggest a 3 inch exhaust will be loud but will give u good Gaines, many people may disagree but time an time again its been proven on the dyno. as wru said a good header system bisimoto, Rmf replicas or hytec replicas are good.
68mm throttle body, type s intake manifold.
Always get quality oils and change them every 5000km
Bit of injector cleaner can be handy every 10000km or so
Get throttle body and parts cleaner to clean your spark plugs and throttle body combine that with a good scrubbing
If your spark plugs are black as shit just get new ones
NGK PZFR6-11 are the best for h22's
Personally I just pay a mechanic to do a full service and clean my spark plugs, throttle body and anything else that could use a scrub once every 3 months.
Saves me alot of time drop it there on a monday go to work knock off and pick it up that arvo.
I'l most likely end up doing the service with my mechanic to stay on the safe side :)
If all goes well, will have my ~2.75" cold air intake system with a K&N pod soon !