what engine oil for 99' Integra DC4 Gsi

Actually, this is bad info...

The owners manual (I have one) states the GSi is designed to use full synthetic. It's simply a matter of the climate you live in as to what viscosity you run, but the GSi engine is rated for fully synth. I'd also recommend you use Honda Type II coolant... If you live in the north, or west you can get away with a 20w 40. Where as if you live south of Queensland I'd probably run a 15w 40 though or a 10w 40, if you in the Snowy regions around Canberra, Melbourne, Tasmania or further inland Queensland around the granite belt region. You run the risk unnecessarily of not getting enough oil pressure with a 5w 40 unless you're tracking a car.

I have a GSi I just changed the timing belt and water pump on with no wear what so ever after 70000km, runing 15w 40, and Honda type II coolant, the water pump came out of my car when I serviced it as new, zero corrosion, my engine as a whole has not even developed a puff of smoke, so after 70000km zero wear... Oils and coolants cost bugger all, don't be a tight arse when in the long run it's just going to shorten the life of your car and cost you a much more expensive bill later on.

It's real simple... actually let me get a picture for you:

http://i40.tinypic.com/ethdo9.jpg

Run high quality synthetic oils, e.g. Motul, Fuchs, Total, etc... and save your engine in the long run, I've always used Fuchs or Total oils, Castrol Mobil, Valvolne and Shell are generally shit, it goes up from there, Penrite, Penzoil, etc. Saving $20 on oils only to cause unnecessary engine wear is really quite stupid. Other than that it's straight forward, the lower the W rating the quicker the oil gets up to temperature when its cold and the less dry engine running which can cause engine damage. Because we live in a country with largely varied temperatures you want a bit of both hence the 40, so as it actually handles the heat as well as the cold we get. temperatures vary wildly from -20 to +40 you really need a good W (Winter) grade as well as a good summer grade, hope that helps.

So I finally did an oil change today. The oil filter was a nightmare, since the car wasn't up on a hoist. For those of you who own an Integra GSi, will understand.

I ended using Nulon Semi Synthetic 10W30, hopefully there's a noticeable improvement from Magnatec 10W40. Used a Ryco Z79A for the oil filter.

The oil filter that was used by the mechanic when I got it serviced, was not equivalent to the Z79A, but it was interchangable Z547. Now the Ryco website, recommends the Z79A. So I'm a little bit concerned.

After googling both oil filters, I came across another filter brand called Micro Filters, their website claims that their Z547 is ok for the Integra (doesn't specify what year) http://microautofilters.com.au/f547.html.

Micro Filter Z79A = http://microautofilters.com.au/F79.html

I haven't had oil pressure issues, so I'm not sure whether this is a problem or not.

Should I be worried?

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Originally Posted by Integra-GSi

Actually, this is bad info...

The owners manual (I have one) states the GSi is designed to use full synthetic. It's simply a matter of the climate you live in as to what viscosity you run, but the GSi engine is rated for fully synth. I'd also recommend you use Honda Type II coolant... If you live in the north, or west you can get away with a 20w 40. Where as if you live south of Queensland I'd probably run a 15w 40 though or a 10w 40, if you in the Snowy regions around Canberra, Melbourne, Tasmania or further inland Queensland around the granite belt region. You run the risk unnecessarily of not getting enough oil pressure with a 5w 40 unless you're tracking a car.

I have a GSi I just changed the timing belt and water pump on with no wear what so ever after 70000km, runing 15w 40, and Honda type II coolant, the water pump came out of my car when I serviced it as new, zero corrosion, my engine as a whole has not even developed a puff of smoke, so after 70000km zero wear... Oils and coolants cost bugger all, don't be a tight arse when in the long run it's just going to shorten the life of your car and cost you a much more expensive bill later on.

It's real simple... actually let me get a picture for you:

http://i40.tinypic.com/ethdo9.jpg

Run high quality synthetic oils, e.g. Motul, Fuchs, Total, etc... and save your engine in the long run, I've always used Fuchs or Total oils, Castrol Mobil, Valvolne and Shell are generally shit, it goes up from there, Penrite, Penzoil, etc. Saving $20 on oils only to cause unnecessary engine wear is really quite stupid. Other than that it's straight forward, the lower the W rating the quicker the oil gets up to temperature when its cold and the less dry engine running which can cause engine damage. Because we live in a country with largely varied temperatures you want a bit of both hence the 40, so as it actually handles the heat as well as the cold we get. temperatures vary wildly from -20 to +40 you really need a good W (Winter) grade as well as a good summer grade, hope that helps.

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the lower the w rating, the quicker the oil gets up to temperature?


wat

z79a is the right filter.

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Originally Posted by u mad?

z79a is the right filter.

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Haha a little bit mad, coz I'm not sure whether using a completely different oil filter is bad for the car. As I said before, I didn't have any issues while driving.

Yeah I know Z79A is correct.

tbh if you changing you filter regularly (ie so it dosnt clog) then on most petrol engines the filter dosnt matter as long as it fits the tread and seals well. on some current diesels it can be an issue though

Rep above post please guise.

If you're changing every 5k km's, doesn't matter what shifty filter you use, as long as it has anti-drain back valve.

I bought bulk China pack, 28 bux 12 filters.

For my DC2R I drop in Royal Purple 5-30 (45K kms) and switch to 10-40 if the ambient temp soars. Given that I change oil at 4 months or 3000 kms and that it's my weekend ride, the months come up first. 10-40 if I know I'm going to do an interstate run in summer.

Closer to your GSi is my '86 E30 BMW which gets full synth 10-40 all year round as does my partner's CXi Civic. Neither are high revvers (the E30's 2.7 6cyl redlines at 4500 with diesel-like torque). The E30's odometer stopped working at 240K kms 6 years ago but I never need to top the oil up (had to replace front and rear main-seals 4 years ago though). The CXi goes through a little bit of oil between changes. Both cars get changes at 5000/4months. I admit I go overkill.

When we bought them second hand, both of the above cars were on mineral oil. I ran one mineral change through both but found it to break down quicker than I was used to with cars I'd run full synth in previously. Switched both to synthetic and it comes out better between changes (placebo probably and no evidence to back it up but for me, the cars just "feel" better). When I stop stuffing around with custom turbo setups for the M20B27 in the E30 and just drop a 1JZ in I'll probably move to a better brand of synth.

Magnatec is marketing hype and is very average IMO.

The only recent car I've owned that I didn't use synthetic in was my EH Holden - the rope seal at the back of the motor is designed to let oil out so that it washes over the underbody and stops the car from rusting :D Also, it's part of that genuine Holden feeling.

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Originally Posted by Setanta

For my DC2R I drop in Royal Purple 5-30 (45K kms) and switch to 10-40 if the ambient temp soars. Given that I change oil at 4 months or 3000 kms and that it's my weekend ride, the months come up first. 10-40 if I know I'm going to do an interstate run in summer.

Closer to your GSi is my '86 E30 BMW which gets full synth 10-40 all year round as does my partner's CXi Civic. Neither are high revvers (the E30's 2.7 6cyl redlines at 4500 with diesel-like torque). The E30's odometer stopped working at 240K kms 6 years ago but I never need to top the oil up (had to replace front and rear main-seals 4 years ago though). The CXi goes through a little bit of oil between changes. Both cars get changes at 5000/4months. I admit I go overkill.

When we bought them second hand, both of the above cars were on mineral oil. I ran one mineral change through both but found it to break down quicker than I was used to with cars I'd run full synth in previously. Switched both to synthetic and it comes out better between changes (placebo probably and no evidence to back it up but for me, the cars just "feel" better). When I stop stuffing around with custom turbo setups for the M20B27 in the E30 and just drop a 1JZ in I'll probably move to a better brand of synth.

Magnatec is marketing hype and is very average IMO.

The only recent car I've owned that I didn't use synthetic in was my EH Holden - the rope seal at the back of the motor is designed to let oil out so that it washes over the underbody and stops the car from rusting :D Also, it's part of that genuine Holden feeling.

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Wow nice. Well I was keen to try a 10W30, instead of a 10W40, with the intention of it improving fuel economy, and the car warming up quicker.

I've always known magnatec is average oil, nothing revolutionary. But it works with my car.

I honestly don't know what to think with synthetic oils in older cars. I've read mixed opinions on whether its ok or not, and if there is actually an improvement. I'm not saying to be cheap with engine oil, but I don't see the point of going over the top if it barely makes a difference.

But as you said, you replaced your seals. So the seals will probably adapt to synthetic oil.

Btw I love E30's and hope to own one in the future. Preferably a 318is.

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Originally Posted by Daveho1

tbh if you changing you filter regularly (ie so it dosnt clog) then on most petrol engines the filter dosnt matter as long as it fits the tread and seals well. on some current diesels it can be an issue though

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Thanks. So I guess its nothing to worry about. That's a relief :).

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Originally Posted by Setanta

Neither are high revvers (the E30's 2.7 6cyl redlines at 4500 with diesel-like torque). The E30's odometer stopped working at 240K kms 6 years ago but I never need to top the oil up (had to replace front and rear main-seals 4 years ago though). The CXi goes through a little bit of oil between changes. Both cars get changes at 5000/4months. I admit I go overkill.

When we bought them second hand, both of the above cars were on mineral oil. I ran one mineral change through both but found it to break down quicker than I was used to with cars I'd run full synth in previously. Switched both to synthetic and it comes out better between changes (placebo probably and no evidence to back it up but for me, the cars just "feel" better). When I stop stuffing around with custom turbo setups for the M20B27 in the E30 and just drop a 1JZ in I'll probably move to a better brand of synth.

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Is that why you had to replace the main seals a few years ago because you went from dino to full synthetic?
and it blew out the seals?

Mate it doesn't effect how long it takes for your car to warm up or fuel economy. I've used 5-30 full synth, 10-40 semi and currently using 10-50 full.

The only thing that's changing is the viscosity/thickness of the oil at operating temperature.

Fuel economy is the same. Engine warms up in the same amount of time. Only difference is that I burn less oil because its thicker when warm. And that was my desired outcome.

As for synthetic in older engines it's not a big deal as far as GSI's are concerned lol. It's not a big deal using mineral in modern cars either. Generally synthetic oils lubricate more effectively at cold start and mineral oils burn less when warm.

And if I were you I'd be using 10-40, especially in summer if you do spirited driving. Going thinner won't change your life except make you blow smoke.

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Originally Posted by vs2306

Wow nice. Well I was keen to try a 10W30, instead of a 10W40, with the intention of it improving fuel economy, and the car warming up quicker.

I've always known magnatec is average oil, nothing revolutionary. But it works with my car.

I honestly don't know what to think with synthetic oils in older cars. I've read mixed opinions on whether its ok or not, and if there is actually an improvement. I'm not saying to be cheap with engine oil, but I don't see the point of going over the top if it barely makes a difference.

But as you said, you replaced your seals. So the seals will probably adapt to synthetic oil.

Btw I love E30's and hope to own one in the future. Preferably a 318is.

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