[Euro] (10000 service) syn oil not recommended

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Originally Posted by aaronng

2 steps down for the 2nd number
1st number is SAE oil viscosity equivalent at -18ºC, while 2nd number is SAE equivalent at 100ºC.
The first number 10w means it has a viscosity like an SAE10 oil at -18ºC. 5w means SAE5. 0w means it is the same as 5w, but it can be poured at a lower temperature (10ºC lower than 5w before becoming not liquid enough to flow).

So 1 step down from 10w is 5w, while 0w is the same as 5w but has better flow capacity at lower temperature.

At the upper end it is like normal for 100ºC. 30 means equivalent to SAE30, and so on. I wouldn't go even 1 step down, as that means the oil (20) is very thin. Going up 1 step is ok. Going 2 steps up is not as good, because it is too viscous and cannot get in between the 2 metal surfaces in small gaps in a fine tolerance engine.

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tak faham lah.......:confused:

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Originally Posted by petsfact

tak faham lah.......:confused:

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how about you type in english

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Originally Posted by petsfact

tak faham lah.......:confused:

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Haha, I actually understand malay.

Euro has to use 10w-30 as standard.
Generally you can go up or down 1 step. The manual says you can use:
0w-20
0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30
0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40

First number is when cold, second number is when hot.

From all this, I feel 0w-20 is too thin for hot temperature protection, while 15w-40 is too thick to provide cold start protection (because of the 15w).

Why you can use 0w eventhough it is 2 steps down from 10w? Because 0w is the same viscosity as 5w. The only difference is that at -40ºC, 5w doesn't flow as well as 0w. 0w can flow down to -50ºC

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Haha, I actually understand malay.

Euro has to use 10w-30 as standard.
Generally you can go up or down 1 step. The manual says you can use:
0w-20
0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30
0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40

First number is when cold, second number is when hot.

From all this, I feel 0w-20 is too thin for hot temperature protection, while 15w-40 is too thick to provide cold start protection (because of the 15w).

Why you can use 0w eventhough it is 2 steps down from 10w? Because 0w is the same viscosity as 5w. The only difference is that at -40ºC, 5w doesn't flow as well as 0w. 0w can flow down to -50ºC

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haha..... thanks for understanding malay :D

so mobil 1 10w-30 and castrol edge 5w-30 has same thickness? so i guess it won't cure my tapping noise by putting in castrol 5w-30.

I am actually quite keen to try these oil, castrol 0w-40 (as recommended in this discussion), shell helix ultra 5w-40, motul chrono 300v 5w-40. Just not sure which to choose from as i travel a lot 5000km in 1.5 month i need something that is up for the abuse (i.e entering freeway just 2 minutes started driving from home) then stop and go traffic for about 30 minutes each and everyday (morning and evening).

btw if you do come from where i come from do you know how much these car sell in "that country"? :)

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Originally Posted by petsfact

so mobil 1 10w-30 and castrol edge 5w-30 has same thickness? so i guess it won't cure my tapping noise by putting in castrol 5w-30.

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When warm, yes, Mobil1 has the same viscosity as Edge. But, Mobil1 is a PAO synthetic while Edge 5w-30 is a hydrocracked synthetic. That means MObil1 is the true expensive synthetic that everyone knows about, while Edge 5w-30 is the cheaper, mineral oil based synthetic.

If you have tapping noise, change from Mobil1. Many people from the US forums have reported that Mobil1 causes loud tapping noises. Give Edge 5w-30 a try. If you find that it doesn't last that long, then you can use Edge 0w-40 instead because Edge 0w-40 is a PAO oil like Mobil1.

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Originally Posted by petsfact

I am actually quite keen to try these oil, castrol 0w-40 (as recommended in this discussion), shell helix ultra 5w-40, motul chrono 300v 5w-40. Just not sure which to choose from as i travel a lot 5000km in 1.5 month i need something that is up for the abuse (i.e entering freeway just 2 minutes started driving from home) then stop and go traffic for about 30 minutes each and everyday (morning and evening).

btw if you do come from where i come from do you know how much these car sell in "that country"? :)

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As long as you give 30 seconds for your oil to circulate, drive normally until the temperature needle is at least 2/3 up, most of these oils will protect your engine for your driving style. When you enter the freeway, do you use full throttle? If you do, I think 2 minutes is not enough before entering the freeway. Or you can enter the freeway without using full throttle, i.e. driving normally.

Hehe, I bet the price will be 200% of here. But not as bad as Singapore. Singapore would be 400% of australian prices.

As mentioned in other post's in other threads I have been using Mobil 1 since the first service & have now done about 75k. The engine runs as good as ever, I just ran over 1000km's over the past weekend & got just over 7l per 100km's. The engine never uses oil between changes & gets driven hard when appropriate. Idid think that I had an issue with tapping but the dealer assures me that the noise I can hear is the injector pump!!! I have nothing to quantify that using a synthetic oil is better than using a mineral oil, but I feel better for my car knowing that I am using a good oil.

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Originally Posted by Eurotony

As mentioned in other post's in other threads I have been using Mobil 1 since the first service & have now done about 75k. The engine runs as good as ever, I just ran over 1000km's over the past weekend & got just over 7l per 100km's. The engine never uses oil between changes & gets driven hard when appropriate. Idid think that I had an issue with tapping but the dealer assures me that the noise I can hear is the injector pump!!! I have nothing to quantify that using a synthetic oil is better than using a mineral oil, but I feel better for my car knowing that I am using a good oil.

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like, do you hear it while standing in front of your car for a smoke? (i do)

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Originally Posted by petsfact

like, do you hear it while standing in front of your car for a smoke? (i do)

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you hear a slight ticking noise when the engine is at idle. I don't think the type of oil has anything to do with the noise. i'm told by the dealer that the noise is the injector pump.

There is injector noise, and there is tappet noise. With Euros, I find the injector noise loud. But it was like that since new. So I never noticed the injector sound appearing suddenly one day.

Has anyone tried Royal Purple oil in the Euro yet?

http://www.royalpurple.com.au/html/s...op_id=60&dsa=0

Any comments or views?

Switched from Motul 4100 semi-synthetic which I had been using from the 1000km service and 5000km (intermediate 3 month) service to Motul 8100 fully synthetic 5-40W at 10000km.

My Euro hasn't had a problem so far and the reason for using a full synthetic is that I don't need to service my car at 15000km for an oil change.

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Originally Posted by tanalasta

Switched from Motul 4100 semi-synthetic which I had been using from the 1000km service and 5000km (intermediate 3 month) service to Motul 8100 fully synthetic 5-40W at 10000km.

My Euro hasn't had a problem so far and the reason for using a full synthetic is that I don't need to service my car at 15000km for an oil change.

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Why don't you want to change your oil every 6 months/10000km?

Going 3 months/5000km is too short with a semi synthetic. Your Motul 4100 would have still been good.