b18c head

what about in the case of a b20vtec build?

assuming the entire bottom end is built, what would be the best head?

I usually see most people prefer to start work on the P72 head ,mainly due to cost of the head & also the quench pads ability to ward off detonation better than the PR3 heads.

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Originally Posted by fatboyz39

best is to get a tunable ecu, crome hondata.

change the rod bolts. stock rods can handle 8500 rpm.

The LS rods are the same as B20 rods. Change the rod bearings to the ITR ones. Add headstuds if budget permits.

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thanks for that... got all the parts i need listed and available minus the block.

just wanna clarify though.. i've searched a few suppliers for the itr rod bearings (ACL brand primarily), are you confident they fit on the b18b rods/crank? all suppliers i found had a separate listing for B18A/B and B18C. On B18A/B listings they state that they do not fit any B18c series??

Same with the ARP head studs... B18c is 208-4303 and B18a/b is 208-4302

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Originally Posted by dsp26

thanks for that... got all the parts i need listed and available minus the block.

just wanna clarify though.. i've searched a few suppliers for the itr rod bearings (ACL brand primarily), are you confident they fit on the b18b rods/crank? all suppliers i found had a separate listing for B18A/B and B18C. On B18A/B listings they state that they do not fit any B18c series??

Same with the ARP head studs... B18c is 208-4303 and B18a/b is 208-4302

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With the ITR bearing you need to modify the rods abit to fit them bearings. Not hard at all.

As for the APR head studs, i can't remember what we used.

ever thought of going to a b20 as opposed to b18b?

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Originally Posted by fatboyz39

With the ITR bearing you need to modify the rods abit to fit them bearings. Not hard at all.

As for the APR head studs, i can't remember what we used.

ever thought of going to a b20 as opposed to b18b?

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Should I PM you regarding the details or would you be able to post the details here regarding the modification.. would be much appreciated :)

ARP studs, since neither set will fit both block/head from the look of things i get this feeling i should be modding the block which from memory of the b20 swaps stud holes had to be made bigger or something?

B20 would be ideal but i don't want the hassle of engineering, B16a to B18b displacement difference is 14.98% and is blue-slippable :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dsp26

Should I PM you regarding the details or would you be able to post the details here regarding the modification.. would be much appreciated :)

ARP studs, since neither set will fit both block/head from the look of things i get this feeling i should be modding the block which from memory of the b20 swaps stud holes had to be made bigger or something?

B20 would be ideal but i don't want the hassle of engineering, B16a to B18b displacement difference is 14.98% and is blue-slippable :D

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No need to modify the holes for headstud. Search on honda-tech.

the b18b bearings are 2mm wider than b18c ones.

use B18C head studs, use B18B rod bolts.

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Originally Posted by tinkerbell

the b18b bearings are 2mm wider than b18c ones.

use B18C head studs, use B18B rod bolts.

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so.. simple matter of getting bearings machined 2mm?


this is going to be pretty easy espesh with the GE kit...

i'll find a thread dedicated to this setup and update with the required info for requirements you gents have posted.... too much research involved from US forums and is obviously off-topic to this thread.. sorry :/

pm me if you have q's...

as for bearings, just use b18b ones! they are designed for it!

i left my b20 bearings alone...

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Originally Posted by fatboyz39

If you search around the forums, tu88y had a LS/vtec which pumped out 116kw atw. Nothing special was in the motor, b16a pistons, p72 head, ITR cams, stock manifold, ITR JDM 4-1 headers, ECU and tune.

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116 with stock ls gearbox? or itr box? thanks

great use of the PM system there!