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^^^yes the above is a great idea....Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
this last set of mounts i created proved my previous guestimate of DRYING approx. 1cm of outer depth (either side) of the mount within a 24hr period using Polyurethane.
I just want to make it clear that Drying <> Curing.
i've searched a bit including the DIY section, anyone have any hints on removal of the rear engine mount or want to confirm my hunch about removal of intake mani?
rear engine mount = PITA.
remove 2 front lower torque mounts , and unbolt rear mount from gearbox ( 2 x 19mm bolts , one 17mm upper bolt) and then the botl from the mount itself (1 x 17mm long bolt). You can then grab the top of the engine and slowly move it forward and backward to get the rear T piece out , then get easy access to the rear engine mount.
cough
sorry about the lack of reply guys, just been somewhat busy with some stuff thats come up recently
finally got around to driving the thing and the axel tramping is gone :) lots of rattles from around the joint though, just gotta go around and tighten shit up and hopefully it'll stop some stuff
overall good and solid now :D
say is there a 'softer' version of this sikaflex? say i wanted near-oem feel but wanted to repair a broken mount, is there such stuff? maybe any old plumbing silicon? :D
sikaflex 227/221 is pretty soft... i used it to fill me rear mounts... they've been cured for a few weeks... but when i squeeze them theres flex.. kind feels like its uncured inside but it is (i know coz i stuck a needle through it)
will be putting in some sikaflex 221 soon into some mounts, will have to see how that pans out compared to 252 and the ES ones :)
still up for suggestions on a softer type! don't care if its just meant to fill gaps in walls, as long as it holds well and feels like stock :)