Info on Turboing an Accord Euro

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SPQR

It seems to me that a turbo Euro is problematic because so many of its functions other than simply running the engine involve the engine management computer (PGM-F1 in Honda speak).

Nitrous Oxide injection might be able to get around this problem: There are, what are known as, '"dry kits" which only inject liquid N2O. These are suited to street tune (unmodified) 4 cylinder cars and supposedly increase power by up to 70 bhp (52kW). They rely on the car's own computer to inject additional petrol (which can be dangerous if a car's computer doesn't properly compensate and add petrol).Most car engine computers can cope with having to squirt more petrol in and these simple N2O kits rely on this to work.

N2O by itself does not increase power as it needs petrol to go with the extra Oxygen atoms. The Oxygen atoms are released from the N2O molecules at temperatures greater than five hundred (and something) degrees centigrade. The Oxygen then mixes with added petrol to increase combustion pressure. As the N2O is injected as a liquid, when it vaporises in the manifold it also cools the intake air temperature substantially, negating the need for an intercooler.

The "dry kits" can be had for around $1,000 plus what is known as purge valve kit. The purge valve clears the N2O line of any vapour so that only liquid N2O is injected. This ensures a rapid response from the engine.

The process is also known as chemical supercharging and was developed in WWII fighter and bomber aircraft as a means for compensating for altitude and to give that little extra boost (in emergencies) to get out of harms-way.

N2O has disadvantages in that you keep having to refill the bottle and the temperature at which the liquid is stored and delivered to the engine is somewhat critical. But, for the occasional boost (for overtaking or to scare the living daylights out of a WRX owner), it can be useful. Oh, also, watch out for the police.

Don't try to use the stuff to get stoned. The grade of N2O used for cars is not pure and has Sulphur Dioxide added to make it unpalatable. If you try to inhale it you will damage your brain. Medical grade N2O (also known as laughing gas) is not available to the general public as it is an anaesthetic.

---

Sulphur dioxide is equivalent to rotten egg gas smell, which also numbs your sense of smell correct me if i am wrong, and if you breath in sulphur dioxide for long periods of time (you would be dead within 1-2mins).

Any how do you guys know if the greddy emanage ultimate would be sufficient in running a turbo setup for the euro?
or would running an additional ecu, k20a ecu be better?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

Why bother with dry kits when wet kits are much safer. At WOT, the ECU doesn't know how many extra molecules of O2 are there from the N2O, so your K24 engine will run lean.

---

Dry kits are easier to install because you don't have to plumb-in petrol. The manufacturers claim that they are suited to street tune cars and provide a reasonable boost of up to 70 bhp. Wet kits are safer at wide open throttle as you said; as the engine is not in closed loop mode. I did warn that there is a danger to engines. Clearly this would be at WOT.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Crapdaz

Sulphur dioxide is equivalent to rotten egg gas smell, which also numbs your sense of smell correct me if i am wrong, and if you breath in sulphur dioxide for long periods of time (you would be dead within 1-2mins).

---

Yes it is. It is also a product of normal petrol combustion because sulphur is present (now in much less quantities) in unleaded petrol. You can still smell it behind a car but when ULP was first introduced, there was more sulphur and the rotten egg smell was a common complaint from new ULP car owners.

Don't inhale the gas.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SPQR

Dry kits are easier to install because you don't have to plumb-in petrol. The manufacturers claim that they are suited to street tune cars and provide a reasonable boost of up to 70 bhp. Wet kits are safer at wide open throttle as you said; as the engine is not in closed loop mode. I did warn that there is a danger to engines. Clearly this would be at WOT.

---

You would use N2O only during WOT, so there is not much point taking shortcuts just because the dry system is easier to install when it is clear that the ECU cannot compensate with additional fuel on its own during WOT. You would probably need a wet system for Euros running stock ECUs because all it relies on is a MAP sensor which can't tell the difference between air and N2O.

It will end up costing too much IMO and it's better value to just buy an Sti/Evo. The Euro, being a FWD car, will probably have serious torque steering issues when you load it up with too much torque.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sodaz

It will end up costing too much IMO and it's better value to just buy an Sti/Evo. The Euro, being a FWD car, will probably have serious torque steering issues when you load it up with too much torque.

---

Torque steer is not the issue (just hold on to that steering wheel). Traction is the issue! I am having traction issues at only 2000rpm with the new flywheel. lol. Imagine if you had more torque with traction control off!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sodaz

It will end up costing too much IMO and it's better value to just buy an Sti/Evo. The Euro, being a FWD car, will probably have serious torque steering issues when you load it up with too much torque.

---

Agreed! And also its not as simple as bolting on a turbo onto an N/A car. Various other components will need to be upgraded to be able to handle the extra oomph..
e.g. brakes, suspension, gearbox are just some of the long list of things that will need attention when turbo'ing a car.

Its honestly much easier to just go buy a car that came out turbo.

i had alot of wheel spin/wheel hop with the ETD.
when running from stationary. and traction control hits, but i switch it off.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sodaz

It will end up costing too much IMO and it's better value to just buy an Sti/Evo. The Euro, being a FWD car, will probably have serious torque steering issues when you load it up with too much torque.

---

yeh am going to get evo later on as a family car.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SPQR

Most people are better off buying a factory turbo car if that's what they want.....

---

Yep. I said that.

interesting story - I hope someone else knows of this.

I met a friends friend who told me that he had a 06 lux supercharged euro. I thought i'd listen to his story. this is a summary:
-he ordered a mugen supercharger kit from the states for $4800 landed
-installed it himself
-featured the car on hot4's magazine
-sold the car as it became too notorious and he could not park it anywhere

Anybody know of this car?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by blk05gli

interesting story - I hope someone else knows of this.

I met a friends friend who told me that he had a 06 lux supercharged euro. I thought i'd listen to his story. this is a summary:
-he ordered a mugen supercharger kit from the states for $4800 landed
-installed it himself
-featured the car on hot4's magazine
-sold the car as it became too notorious and he could not park it anywhere

Anybody know of this car?

---

He's probably pulling your leg. Mugen doesn't make a supercharger kit for the TSX/Euro.

mugen supercharger ROFLLLL

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

He's probably pulling your leg. Mugen doesn't make a supercharger kit for the TSX/Euro.

---

And I haven't really seen any Euro's in Hot4's?