The B20VTEC discussion thread

Correct fuel pressure is 43.5psi with vacuum hose off at idle.
In your case, though it will idle real nice, it will mean you'll need to add fuel with the VAFC up top, which is not effective since you'll likley run out of injector up top anyway.
To start your street tune, ajust the fuel pressure so that the std ecu without effect from the vafc gives you around 12.8:1 AF (0.88 lambda) at 5500~6000rpm.
It'll be a lot easier to tune it for good results from there.
You'll need a walbro high pressure pump too... stock one won't cut it as you'll end up with around 60~65psi fuel pressure.
Set IG timing to 16deg with pins shorted before starting.

what would be the benefit of ITB's? from what i understand, is that the cylinder's wont scavenge the incoming air from each other and you'd get better down low torque. but how do they benefit an engine around the top end? and would having longer flute's,ram's or velocity stack's on them help increase the rev range, iv'e been look'n 'round for some but most sell for 'round $900-$1100 mark. @ the moment i'm running a skunk2 manifold with a 71mm throttle body.

after reading a few post in regards to b20 rod bolts,

for the ones that have experience in building these motors, what would you say

a standard b20 swap with a b16 head

replace with arp rod bolts or leave it standard?

thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by na-118

after reading a few post in regards to b20 rod bolts,

for the ones that have experience in building these motors, what would you say

a standard b20 swap with a b16 head

replace with arp rod bolts or leave it standard?

thanks

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I ran mine with standard head studs for two years. Ran with no hassels. Till i went high compression at 13.0 and rebuilt the bottom end. With a closed deck.

you can run with b18c2\c7 head stud, don't run the bs b16a headstuds

did you guys even read his question before clicking submit? :wave:

na-118 - here is a thread prepared earlier...

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...20#post2820920

getting around to changing my water pump, would u goes go genuine or aftermarket?

yeah, i have used aftermarket before, but since USD is so cheap, then can get lots of your genuine parts from USA:

http://oemacuraparts.com/partlocator...layCatalogid=0

yeh, just looking for smething local atm, jdm yard has them for 200 bux but looking for smething abit cheaper

but geeeze that is cheap

OK, here you go then: http://www.ausmart.com.au/category304_1.htm

121 + 10.50 = 131.50 delivered

(but i also note the genuine USA one is $105 delivered....)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tinkerbell

OK, here you go then: http://www.ausmart.com.au/category304_1.htm


(but i also note the genuine USA one is $105 delivered....)

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yeh just checked how cheap it is, i wonder how long it will take to get here

i have bought multiple packages from those guys... delivered (with tracking) in usually 7-10 business days, BUT they can expedite it if you need (i.e. 5 days) for extra cost (like 45 postage vs 25)...

however - this time of year there will be all sorts of disclaimers saying that times cannot be guaranteed due to the Christmas period!!!