The B20VTEC discussion thread

Clay the motor to check clearance

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Originally Posted by Bludger

no you wouldn't, you would pay someone else to do it.

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maybe

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

....and still owe them money !

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and who do i owe money??? please tell me dude

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Originally Posted by MikeyG

maybe



and who do i owe money??? please tell me dude

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U owe me $21 and a set of oem lugnuts lol
Not that i care but just taking advantage of comedic timing ;-)

Back on topic sorry OP !

take it to PM or you will be banned.

so far wenever i say to someone im building a b20 up all they say is there so unreliable n it will blow....how many people have had problems with there builds? and is this just a assumption because the motor was never made for vtec?

If you build it properly eg. Apart from decent pistons and rods use 5 cap girdle, decent dampner like fluidamper, balance everything and don't rev past 8,500rpm should be ok.
All comes down to the quality of the build and not reving it past 8,500rpm.

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Originally Posted by Sideburns1

so far wenever i say to someone im building a b20 up all they say is there so unreliable n it will blow....how many people have had problems with there builds? and is this just a assumption because the motor was never made for vtec?

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have you read through this thread yet?

you should. I did. took me a while but answered a lot of questions, like the ones you're asking.

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Originally Posted by Cooker

If you build it properly eg. Apart from decent pistons and rods use 5 cap girdle, decent dampner like fluidamper, balance everything and don't rev past 8,500rpm should be ok.
All comes down to the quality of the build and not reving it past 8,500rpm.

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Hey cook, whats this damper your talking about?

Also, for a b20/b16, one would use a b18c timing belt right?
Cant seem to get mine to tension up well and no i did not mill my head or block..
22T Water Pump too....

http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/catal...rdamper6_d.jpg

ATI Super Damper standard harmonic balancers are specifically designed for high-rpm engines. Their proven elastomer is designed and tuned to eliminate harmful crankshaft harmonics that cause parasitic horsepower loss. They are actually two dampers in one--a 4 in. diameter inner damper and a 6 3/8 in., 7 in., or 8 in. diameter outer damper in two shells that bolt to the crank hub. These dampers are engineered to all but eliminate worn parts and timing problems. They're tunable in the field, rebuildable, and extremely efficient at all rpm.

do we really need it?

It's good insurance.

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Originally Posted by Lerlo

Hey cook, whats this damper your talking about?

Also, for a b20/b16, one would use a b18c timing belt right?
Cant seem to get mine to tension up well and no i did not mill my head or block..
22T Water Pump too....

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my head is milled/block decked and the B18C belt works fine... are you doing it as per the factory manual?

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Originally Posted by tinkerbell

my head is milled/block decked and the B18C belt works fine... are you doing it as per the factory manual?

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Yup, following Helms... maybe I should try the clothes hanger technique... Also, it may be tight enough, im not sure...

May I ask, is it strange to have a reading of 300psi on all 4 cylinders? I poured oil into the combustion chamber as I heard it would help seal the rings, and cranked the car without plugs for awhile, maybe I poured too much?