Kumho KU36's

Good stuff euromandeluxe - someone who actually does some research :thumbsup:

p.s. It's a crack-up some folks are trying to use these "calculators" when it's so easy to work out! I even provided a formula!

I've been using s2ki like no tomorrow.
wheel size will be 17x9 +45 offset.

I've been researching for like a week straight on my easter break about tyres and found that,
For a staggered fitment, the car will be more taily then a non-staggered fitment as the non-staggered will provide more grip on the front to compensate for the power to the rear,
creating and equilibrium of force/g force to be distributed across the front and rear tyres during a turn (especially for track).

However, by using the staggered fitment with aftermarket front sway bar, the car will be stiffer on the front and will hold out the natural oversteer of the s2k but still has a some oversteer in it of course.
And also, by using this fitment, it is recommended for more experience drivers who are able to correct properly.

But, I am trying to minimise the hardness of fitting the wheels, as I really don't want to relocate bumper tab.

Where'd you get that info from? unless Ive grossly misunderstood something staggered setups (wider rears) are used to decrease oversteer, especially in high power RWD cars.

Equal widths (non-staggered) does mean more grip in the front, but that would be to dial out understeer and improve turn-in. oversteer is the rear losing grip, not the front, so a non-staggered setup will increase oversteer bias, not decrease it.

Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in but I've always been of the understanding that staggered is to reduce 'tailyness'

Spot-on euromandeluxe. Also, anti-roll (or sway) bars help resist the car from "leaning" or "rolling" when cornering. With a stiffer front anti-roll bar, the effects of oversteer can be reduced.

If you read all throughout S2Ki, it says otherwise.
But I may be wrong, it's all mainly personal opinions

I ended up going with ku31's 215/45/17 cause of the price. Plus I don't thrash or track my car. $115 per corner fitted! Can't complain :)

Actually change of plans, went to ozzytyres and they advised me to go 215/40 which means speedo is out by 4.6% but they said "nah, your car is rwd so it doesn't matter". They're all full of it.. Never had a good experience with them so I went Tempe .. 215/45/17 is the best dimensions but seeing that my cars lowered, they werent sure whether it'll scrub if I put them on so I just went with 205/45/17 which I originally had. Kumho ku31 - 130 each.. Not too bad

An anti-roll bar or sway bar is a weight transference device. It's action is to transfer weight from the outside wheel on the end of the car to which it is fitted, to the inside wheel on the other end of the car.

As 9large says, a stiffer front bar will transfer weight to the inside rear wheel, thus increasing rear grip.

A stiffer rear bar will help reduce understeer, in the same way. Unfortunately it will also decrease rear traction, possibly leading to wheel spin, & launch problems.

They are particularly effective on turn in, & are less effected by bumps than is the case when stiffer springing is used for the same effect.

They are limited in their application, & unfortunately you often see people trying to do things with them, when they should be adjusting roll centres first, then fine tuning with roll bars.

-nuked-

G String, that's how it used to work, back when I was racing the F1 & F11 Brabhams, but may be they have changed it since then.

They even came with adjustable links on our anti-roll bars to allow us to adjust the amount of weight transference, & correct the handling to suit different circuits & conditions.

Of course these were rear wheel drive cars, not so subject to lift off tail sliding, sometimes confused with oversteer, in front drive cars.

-nuked-

Getting slightly O/T, but wouldn't inertia / momentum change the weight distribution under heavy braking (for example)?