yeap.. the EGR.. this reminds me, I hadn't noticed any EGR valve near the engine block.. remember reading somewhere that the K24 does not need a EGR, as the EGR function is built into the engine itself.
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yeap.. the EGR.. this reminds me, I hadn't noticed any EGR valve near the engine block.. remember reading somewhere that the K24 does not need a EGR, as the EGR function is built into the engine itself.
I think grounding kit makes a difference to the starting. I used to have Buddy Club grounding kit, and have no problems starting my car. Since it was taken off, the problem came back once a while.
Here is what the dudes in the U.S. have to say about the hard starting. They mention the ULEV emissions features of the engine is the cause amongst other things.
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/showth...ght=hard+start
Aparently in the TSX Manual, regarding the long startup, it says:
"That's fine...it's just the engine cycling the gases from the fuel...all part of the emissions system"
.
lol see all that resistance is your problem :oQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
but yea it probably has a lot to do with the properties of the k24 and an inadequate starter motor / battery. My girlfriends ek civic cranks over at least twice as fast as my car.
My Civic sometimes only takes one turn (almost instant) to start up. The Euro's quickest is like 3 turns :oQuote:
Originally Posted by Chris_F
try starting a scooby! my old 2.2L liberty kicks over for a few seconds before it starts :)
I have notice this when I drive my friends Euro around.
but I recently change the way I start his car, I turn the key to on waiting until the engine check is off then I turn the key and it usually start instant.
You may want to try this method.
i had no problems when i test drove mine. it had been sitting for over a week not moved. i think from habit of my S15 that i let the pump prime (its friggen loud) before i kick the engine over.
im sure its been mentioned before, but have you checked your plugs? are they burnt? coked up? need regapping?
My old S15 even modded (until I went to 740cc injectors) definitely cranked over at the 1st turn everytime, no matter what conditions.
The Euro Accord 'usually' cranks over in 1-2 cranks.
ZEi20T - the problem isn't that it doesn't cold start. The Euro Accord when u get it, you'll notice its hard to warm-start it. Say you were driving. Stopped for 10 minutes for shopping. Then start it again to drive off. It takes like 3-5 cranks and it feels like it wants to die.
Some people complain on here that they can't even warm-start their car the first time they turn the key. I don't think anyone is having problems with Cold Start as such? If ANYONE has cold-start problems, check that your battery is at 12.65V so you know its charged.
Anyway, what that all means is - the CCA in this case is irrelevant. CCA is a measurement of the Cranking Amps available at -18C for 30 seconds before it drops below a certain Voltage. If our Euro Accords can cold start not a problem at 5C in the morning or 0C, it clearly shows its not CCA related.
For warm-start problems you could look at the HCA instead, but this is related and 'nearly' proportional to the CCA anyway. So is the CCA is good enough for cold-start, the battery should be good enough for warm-starts as well.
Even though I mentioned it could well be Vapour Lock related, going by the symptoms...
My latest suspicion could be that after a 'certain warm period of time', the cylinder and the part of the engine block its touching might still be hot enough, while the remaining of the engine block itself has started to cool from the outside towards the inside. Knowing that Aluminium (Alloy) has one of the higher coefficient of thermal expansions, it could mean that part of the engine block is shrinking at this particular point in time whilst the central cylinder heads are still really hot and bigger. This resistance could make it hard to start the engine. The long stroke of the Engine doesn't help either, especially depending on the position the cylinders were parked before the car was switched off?
As such, even though I mentioned the CCA itself was irrelevant, the related normal Cranking Amps might indeed be relevant because more cranking amps means the the Starter Motor can crank harder.
You see, when we have the Warm Start Up problem - the Cranking noise is noticeably 'weaker' in sound, as if the engine isn't willing to turn over. As such, better grounding or a better battery might indeed work better under this situation. Not that it will help anymore with Cold-Start itself, because usually we don't have a problem with the car as it is anyway?
Using Synthetic oil in the engine probably helps too in any case? Or revving the engine a lot so the car's better run in?
I use synthetic oil and ran the car hard during run in and it still had the warm start problem. Eitherway, go to Jaycar, get 2 connectors and about 2 metres of 4 gauge cable. Cable will run you $12, while the connectors are $3 for the pair. Put them together, file the opening of one connector so that the alternator bolt fits, cable tie it down and give it a whirl. $15 for your warm starting problems if it helps. Wasting $15 first is better than getting one of those $130 capacitor kits or a $200 high CCA battery that might not solve the problem.
yeh i've noticed a few times when the engine struggles to start, and i'm not too sure why...
i've also noticed sometimes when the engine doesn't start at all...no cranking at all...not too sure if it has anythin to do with the immobiliser....coz it starts fine when i try it the 2nd time...
Another thing as well with the idle.
Many new cars these days have an air sensor in the idle mechanism. If that gets clogged up with crap, you can sometimes have a hard time starting as there isn't enough air getting in and the sensor doesn't increase the engine's idle speed. I'm not sure about the Euro's idle setup, but the old throttle cable with a screw adjustment for idle speed, whilst low-tech, was a surefire way to get the idle speed where you wanted it to be.