that right itis a first coz u drive a swiftQuote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
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that right itis a first coz u drive a swiftQuote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
and also drive a b18c7 eg civic ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmTYPE R
welll i know SOMEONE with a similar setup to JDM TYPE R, he's making 130 kw atw, without head work. He also has a flat spot around 3-4k rpm. He's using 4-2-1 headers. Both the same tuners. Don't think it could be the headers ;);)
Can I give you some advice,I cant remember how many times myself or Toda AU have said this but trying to make power is not about throwing a bunch of parts at an engine its about putting together a COMBINATION that will make power just ask todaek9 he knows all about it,and if the setup is wrong no matter how much tuning you do or parts you try you end up with a poor result.Your setup lacks airflow from boltons so look at that first before you go changing cams or other internals,even if this head has had a bad valve job done it will lack power.People are building these Hi Comp engines for some reason without looking at the rest of the setup,cylinder head flow will make more power than Hi Comp on its own.I have built and seen other setups like this one with under 11to1 comp make 140kw using the same cams as you have but use the cylinder head to make power with the correct intake manifold and TB + CAI and porting and valve job,your current headers will support more power than you are making but are not the best set for your 2lt engine hope all this helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by master_bo_bo
Regards Dyno Dave
I agree with Dyno Dave, basically he said everything that is in my mind...But apart from that, the builder must be good as well. Good = had alot of experience in building engines and 100% knows and understand what he is doing.
a good example, Vtec is like a plate of Combination Noodle, it will not taste nice without the right ingredient..hahaha..
^^^agreed. parts are a catalyst for power on each other.
basic example headers on their own with car bone stock could yield say 4wkw, add pod = +4wkw (2wkw of which was coz of the header) if you dyno'd backwards.. ie put the header back to stock and leave the pod and it leaves like a 2wkw gain... not a simple process but generally thats how it works.
The final product is greater than the sum of its parts.....
just thought id add something to make ur statement my own so we are on the exact same thought lolQuote:
Originally Posted by todaek9
i wouldnt have compared a honda to noodles tho lol
I'm currently in the same situation as you are
I upgraded my cams to buddyclub spec 3 like you want to hoping it would fix my problems and but i only gained 5 kw
I need to redo my head as it has had a poor job done on it
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmTYPE R
That’s not really what you were told at all.
You were told that the power band you have is typical of a 4-1 header.
This can be seen here…
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50314
That is typically 4-1 headers produce 2 peaks in the torque curve.
One, small peak low in the rev (2800~3600rpm) range where the long primaries work well. Following this there is a slight (3700~5000rpm), trough in the torque curve followed by the main body of the engine's torque. (top end)
In your final tune, this early peak has been reduced to make the engine smoother to drive. Moving the cams can also affect this at the expense of the main body of torque in the high end of the rev range.
Ditto what Dave said...
Combination is everything.
Mix & match it wrong / Put it together wrong / Have it tuned poorly…
All ends in the same result… You get shit…
In master bo bo's case, sure there may be a couple of issues.
My guess is it’s probably not the intake manifold.
I’d also say probably not the tuner either.
No tuner is "Harry Potter" as sometimes tuners are expected to be.
Just get out the ol magic wand & perform the miracle of polishing a turd.
So.. Mr Master Bo Bo…
Are you happy with your car?
If you’re happy with how it goes, good… leave it at that.
If you are not & you’ve got the time & the money, then shit is shit.
It needs to be pulled apart, inspected & fixed.
The important part is getting it done properly.
Dave or Adrian
can u guys elaborate a little further as to how to chose part combinations.
let say we were gonna build a high comp motor of 12.5CR and we wanted maximum power.
can you give us an example of what would be a good combitnation and a bad combination?