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Very common problem unfortunately. If you still have warranty, get it replaced. Otherwise, you will be up to some $$$ to get it replaced. The door trim will have to be removed to replace the actuator. On my Euro, the driver's side actuator is sticky.Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaust
For my case, it's the front passenger side actuator that is sticky, it doesn't work when I use central locking button on the driver door but it works when I use the remote......
I wonder if the wiring from the central locking button to the actuator has somehow gotten loose/corroded. If the actuator is stuffed, it won't work no matter if you use the central locking button or the remote.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
to open the door i have to actually stick the key in to open it. so now i have no use in using the remote central locking.... :(
My drivers side is getting worse. There is some on ebay.....but i dun want to fork out the money just yet.
Thanks unity. I'd actually decided not to worry about it as I thought it might be normal. Cheers for the confirmation.Quote:
Originally Posted by unity
I still need to get some rattles sorted out though (seems to be an unfortunate feature of the euros). I've got a grinding rattle coming from around the the left side of the centre console or near the glove box when I drive on rougher bitumen or higher speeds on highways. Also a strange tapping noise coming from behind me but no idea precisely where lol. I hope the dealer can fix them under warranty on my next service.
Tapping noise is from the rear parcel shelf. A little lithium grease into the correct spot and it disappears for quite a few years. Mine hasn't returned after 4 years. Put some thick lithium grease into the spot with the red arrow and make sure you push it in properly using a blade or a strip of cardboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by ticktock
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/1...ardeck12oi.jpg
Thanks aaronng, I'll give that a go! Though I had a quick look there and am not sure where the tapping noise can be coming from as it all looks and feels quite sturdy. Is it from those two bits of metal moving against each other? Wouldn't expect a tap noise from that..Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
The spot weld between the sheets of metal is really poor. If you look just between the gap and the trim, you'll the spot weld. Compare the left side with the right side. Left has like one and a half welds, while the right side has two full welds.Quote:
Originally Posted by ticktock
Tapping is when it is still mild. At first, I thought it was a loose cable or plug in the roof. It gets worse by changing to stiffer suspension, the tapping turns into a metal creaking sound.
The spot welds over the whole fuc*ing car is really poor. I'm struggling to get mine fixed (yes, spot weld issues in the A Frame also).Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
let me know how you go. I have a tapping from the rear as well, especially over bumps. I thought it might be number plate rattling.Quote:
Originally Posted by ticktock
Seriously man, why don't you just sell your car and be done with it? :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by The X Man