I am no expert, but I'd replace the resonator. If the problem persists, then the problem exists elsewhere.
Printable View
I am no expert, but I'd replace the resonator. If the problem persists, then the problem exists elsewhere.
when u remove the 2 smaller resonators (one on top and and below the intake piping) it will leave 2 big circle holes in the intake piping wont it...?
did you guys cover it up otherwise dust will go straight through the intake, especially on gravel roads...
Yes you have to cover them up. Also, the car is MORE responsive with the 3 resonators out. When you disconnect the negative terminal to the battery pump the brake pedal for 10secs.
thanks!
what do you use to cover the holes?
I've done the same thing a few times to different cords...just cut off the top of spray can bottle lids a bit larger in diameter than the hole...tape over it and around the hole with electrical tape and used a clamp to hold in place.
Also I recommend ditching the stock air box and putting in place a cold air intake.
thanks xenon! awesome idea!
If you look at my recent posts I did a write up on how to make one.
hmm i had a dig through your posts but couldnt find anything??
OK, have looked at all posts and decided to finally go ahead and remove the main resonator. I am a noob and all thumbs, so was a little worried.
1994 CD5 2.2 Manual - came with black large resonator, instead of white.
F22B3 SOHC non-vtec.
1: Removed the front right wheel
2: Unscrewed the Philips head clips holding the rubber wheel arch covering.
3: Removed one size 10 small bolt holding together the bumper, lip and wheel arch cover
4: Removed the size 10 bolt holding the lip to the wheel arch guard.
5: Did not need to leverage the wheel arch guard or peel it back to far.
Then remove the resonater
6: Remove one size 10 bolt
7: Remove a really annoying size 10 bolt. This one was a real pain in the arse because it was at just to wrong angle to get any leverage onto it with the spanner. The bumper under the lip is fairly flexible, so don't worry too much about bending it to get better leverage on the pita bolt.
8: Remove the snail (from the engine bay)
9: Push down on the resonator while pulling down.
10: Replace all screws and bolts.
11: Undo negative battery terminal.
12: Replace the wheel (tighten your wheel nuts!)
13: Refit the negative terminal and start and idle until warm.
No special tools required.
Result: - exactly what I hoped for and better than expected sound.
1: Car did not produce any noticeable change to noise at idle - Good!
2: Idle characteristic exactly the same as before. - Good!
3: Partial throttle response - marginally better. - Negligble
4: Noise at partial openings - absolutely no noticeable difference - Good!
5: Full throttle? Awesome. Absolutely what I wanted to hear. There is no noise difference at 80% throttle. However, nail it and you get a beautiful, throaty induction. Induction sound starts at 2000rpm, and plateaus at 3000 - 5500. Note change resonance at roughly 4400 rpm and gets a little deeper. Note at 6500 rpm is as expected.
6: Cruise at 50kmh in second, nail the throttle and enjoy all the way to 90 in second. Sounds like vtec kicking in yo, lol.
I highly recommend this mod for anyone reading this thread looking for an intake sound upgrade, but worried about ruining their "good" car.
Now... time to find a F22B1 head ported polished and loaded with bisimoto stage 1 cam, springs and retainers....
should just do the cold air induction while you're at it...
the induction noise you hear now is only 10% compared to what can be achieved without the air box