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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
u have actually put fear of complete failure in me now. Over the last 6 months, I have had its sprayed 3 times. the creak came back the next day. Overall the clutch is really stiff too.
I think its high time i considered getting RSA :\
How much was the total cost including labour? I got a qoute few months back, if I remember the total inc labour was around 460$ or so (and they said 1 yr or 20k warranty)
here is my 2c.
lube don't do nothing. It stopped mine creaking temporarily, as to whether it is actually bad (as suggested by some above), I can't comment.
I have had my master cylinder replaced. That fixed it.
That was 1-1.5 years ago.
Clutch has now begun creaking again, warranty set to run out in January. Have also had passenger side door actuator fail recently.
The problem I have is that the creaking has continued even after master cylinder has been replaced. This should have been the be all and end all of the problem....
I had only sprayed it with silicon spray twice or three times too. then it just failed not long after that.. it just depends on your luck i guess if it will completely fail ie the master cylinder will lose its pressure 100% and causing the car to become not drivable.Quote:
Originally Posted by roony
The whole master cylinder is $220 from Eastern Honda (VIC) and my mechanic charged me around $120 I think for labour.
Was that $120 for labour including the clutch fluid as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by kitbkk
yeah simon. though clutch fluid is not expensive from honda.
thanks for the help. been stalking this thread. just bought my euro
it creaks when i push it down at the very bottom.
but at times it doesnt do it at all for instance when i wake up n get outside to warm the car, leave it untill warm revs drop to about 700rpm, then its gone
but the creak sometimes happens when i just cold start n drive normally. and i do rev match as well
Yea sounds like master cylinder, I had a similar thing happening, it will get progressively worse.
No such problem with the facelifted version... maybe you should change with the FL euro parts.
I know the facelifted version suffers from the creaking clutch as well (if by facelift you mean 06+ CL9, and not CU2). Whats an FL euro part?
FL euro means 06 onwards CL9.... CU2 is a new car already.
why not sell the CL9 then get CU2? lol that is my answer since I have my Cl9 for 3 years now
I have the face lift version and yes it does suffer from the same problem. The dealer swapped out the faulty master cylinder from my 07 built euroQuote:
Originally Posted by tron07
lets hope it doesnt appear on mine....Quote:
Originally Posted by Euro08Jaz
I dont' have the problem either.Hope i never get it!!Quote:
Originally Posted by tron07
well i rang honda today about a service, generally chatted with him but the clutch issues in the euro. He did begin to say that a revision was made later on, but then later wouldnt confirm it lol.
Anyways, got a spray, gonna try to temp fix it.
thanks for the pic aarong,http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...al-Euro/page45
any advice on how much to spray? thanks.
Edit: nm, sprayed a bit. Will take it for a spin. I hop this time is lasts for more than a day :(. I have found when the car or weather is cold, its ok. Only when the drive gets longer or hot temps is worse.
I will be getting my cylinder replaced sometime next week, my pedal has been the worst I've used. Hopefully it fixes the issue! :D
cool, hopefully will go smooth. keep us posted :)
I finally got my master cylinder replaced today and am SO happy!! the clutch pedal feels as smooth as butter now!
Here is a video of how bad my pedal was prior to the replacement (I think mine has been the worst case I've experienced, let me know how yours compares!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzGzuCS3dp0
Thanks to Kit for telling me where to get it replaced for cheap :D
wow that is pretty bad. I would say on worst days mine is around 80% to that. Im really getting fed up, cause no matter how many times i spray it, comes back within 2-3 days. but glad to hear yours is all fine :).
is there an operational click when u release the clutch?
LOL Simon! Ur pedal was so bad! Many lolz were had at your pedal. btw, vacuum your car!
keep in mind that changing the master cylinder is not the be all and end all.
I have had it swapped before, and the creaking is back, though not as bad.
Warranty almost up, so will push for another master cylinder replacement
And my 2006 :(
FYI mine has been going 4 months without a creak at all. The guy who I got the master cylinder said it was a TSX cylinder.. which apparently does not creak, ever!
Hopefully he didnt lie :P
Haha mine was just at bad, it didnt start out that bad, months of being told that they couldn't hear the problem and when it got to this stage they finally fixed it!
hi simonn ,
where did you get you sports pedal set ? been looking for set my shelf no luck as yet
Got mine from another member here, if you dont mind forking out a bit extra I think they're available on heeltoeauto.com :)
thanks will give them a try
Tried heeltoeauto.com do not have at the moment ? will look around ,Does anyone know some one that has in stock ?
Thanks Manuel
Mine happens quite a bit i just lube it on the clutch assembly and it goes away.
That's true, but the creak comes back sooner or later. Also, constantly using it can lead to the cylinder dying (As discussed in this thread earlier).Quote:
Originally Posted by marquee
Hi
I can get sports pedal set for euro 2009 model $ 150 they look the same as mine any one know
if they will fit my euro 2006 model ?
Hey guys,
Recently purchased a 2004 CL9
I've started to notice that after the car has warmed up and usually after 15mins of driving I will start to feel a click in the clutch as I press/engage the clutch and it can be heard as well. If I slowly engage the clutch it does not click however.
I've gone through this thread twice and the impression I'm getting is that the click is a result of the clutch master cylinder needing to be replaced
I also believe that because its not the creaking noise everyone else is experiencing, the use of the silicone spray on the adjustment rod will not resolve the problem I am having
Can someone please confirm my conclusions?
The creaking clutch pedal issue continues to confuse me. I've had it on and off for the past couple years. At one time I had it continuously for weeks, so I sprayed some silicon spray into it and it went away. It came back a month or so later, so using a length if thin tube (model engine fuel line), gave it a really good spray. I haven't had the pedal creak in 6+ months now! *touches wood*
PS. Be sure to use a rag to soak up any silicon lube that dribbles back out, otherwise your car will smell like a workshop! ;-)
Thanks for the feedback there EuroSteve, I did try to silicon spray method over the weekend and it indeed resolve my clicking issue. Did make my car smell for a bit even after I wiped the surround area down; but nothing air freshner cant mask haha.
Now I'm hoping it doesnt come back too often :P
A little update for those curious (8 months after master cylinder replacement).. I've been feeling minor creaks in my clutch pedal these last few days :( guess it comes back sooner or later TSX clutch or not!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simonnn
oh that really sucks :(. You would think they would have resolved this issue with a newer revision. I got mine replaced couple months back. So far so good, fingers crossed :\. maybe something else aggravates it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simonnn
Out of curiosity, does it take you a bit of effort to change gears? I find I have to concentrate a bit to make sure I release the clutch smoothly (tiring in long heavy traffic), else at times I end up shuddering the car with a not so smooth release.
That happens to mine in first mainly, the other gears are generally fine.. Maybe have a look at changing manual transmission fluid?
For me its mainly 2-4th gears where I have put more effort. Im actually having the 110k service next week and will be chanigng the gear fluid too. Hope that helps.
I just learnt to match the revs when release clutch. So Clutch in, shift and when revs drop to about where I want it to be, I release the clutch in one swift motion. Get it right and it is smooth and not-tiring. Get it wrong and the car starts to bunny-hop. :p
Thanks for the tip, I do belive I have to get used it. I have always driven manual but this clutch is certainly heavier than previous cars such as corollas and honda city. The creaking issue also put me off alot as it was super hard.
I think also alot of the times I change gears at higher revs (drive spirited), I change to the next gear at a higher speed which makes me put more effort to release the clutch smoother. I think i should tone down my aggressive nature :P
Just put some lithium grease spray into my creaking clutch pedal and after 2 burts of spray onto the rod , pumped the clutch twice and the creaking is gone. I know it isnt a permanent fix , but with the other problems i have on this car its the least of my worries.
Well had my car serviced today, changed the gear box fluid and things are more smooth now :).
Do any of you guys use the double clutch method for downshifting aggressively?
Double clutch is for up shifting isn't it and rev matching is for downshifting and I don't use it not much point for road use
^^ Spot on!
The euro pedals are well positioned for heel-toe shifts.
No, double clutch is for downshifting. The up shifting part is a fake statement from Fast and Furious.Quote:
Originally Posted by marquee
Double clutch allows the input shaft in the gearbox to match speeds with the gear that you want to go into. Hence by double clutching, you can go from 4th gear to 1st gear smoothly assuming that you are still under the top speed for 1st gear.
Yes, if I am on the freeway sitting at 90 in 6th gear and want quick acceleration, I double clutch and go straight into 3rd. It minimises wear on the synchros. You can still do it without double clutching, but you will feel resistance going into gear and sometimes you can hear a thud when you do so which is the input shaft being forced to speed up by the synchros.Quote:
Originally Posted by roony
Since the last post here I have learned quite well to double clutch, can do easily for 3rd, 2nd still a bit tougher with the rev matching.
Anyways, I fear my replaced clutch master cylinder might be starting to act up. Last week noticed it make a kinda rubbing faint noise upon release (uptil half point). Hard to describe really. Happened a couple days after the car was run a bit, havnt heard it since. I just hope the creaking doesn't start.
thought it was just me that this happened to glad its not
This issue has been causing me much grief lately. I've tried silicone and grease spray cans but it comes back after about a day. So I bought a grease gun and injected a ton of grease in there and hopefully that will do the trick.
Has anybody found a permanent fix?
Honda have greased it before and replaced my master cyclinder but the issue is still there. I am no longer under Honda warranty.
I have taken it to my mechanic and he lubed it as well, that worked for a month or so, but it's back again.
Dragging up old but relevant thread..
I have this creak and have trouble reaching the source.
Did anyone point out a sure fire way to reach this damned creak spot with lube, inside these 51 pages?
What is out there that has a nozzle long enough?
Thanks..
nope alas there isnt.
it is a poorly designed clutch system basically. Usually the creak is coming from the master cylinder actuator rod, but often also the clutch pedal pivot mechanism (they arent braced enough and flex all over the place), and then also the actuation mechanism to the clutch at the engine often gets a bit dry and notchy.
The fix for mine was to remove the master cylinder actuator rod (which was notched and worn on one side from the poor design and under lubrication) and rotate it 180 degrees so the side that doesnt rub was now the side that receives the noticeable rubbing friction. In doing this give it a liberal application of lithium grease. Sadly this still only keeps it smooth for a few weeks to a few months depending on use, at which point it needs a regrease. I also find ambient temps have an effect on it as it seems at some temps it can still get a harmonic squeal that goes away when the temps change.
Beyond this you might find the clutch pedal pivot mechanism needs some attention and i even reinforced mine to stop the flexing (removed one aspect of the not-so-smooth and heavy pedal action).
Finally, lubing the actuation mechanism to the clutch down on the engine can also help some of the noise and harshness.
After doing all these things and continuing to keep the master cylinder actuator rod lubed i can keep the clutch smooth and noise free.
I fixed it for now.
Went to soupacheep and bought a can of spray lithium grease with a long nozzle and got upside down among the pedals. Someone before me had tried to fix the problem as there was grease everywhere.
I noticed the flex in the assembly! it's horrible! I thought that perhaps the creak was coming from the mounting.
I re-greased every single pivot point until the whole thing looked like a lard sculpture.. it's probably all going to come down in the next heat wave. But it kept creaking.
Last thing I did was put a squirt into the push rod tube for the master cylinder. And that fixed it. It's silky smooth and quiet now.
Might think about bracing the housing a bit before I go to a heavier clutch.
nice one. yeah maybe wipe off the excess from the pedal mechanisms as it wont be doing much good and will cause a mess when it runs down.
Yeah its the master cylinder thats the main culprit. Im sure someone out there has changed the MC before to something else that doesnt have the issues.
Pressure plate and actual friction plates are fine in this car. if probably over-engineered by the feel of it. Doesnt need to be that beefy a clutch for a 4cyl.
the clutch on my 410hp Skyline was just as heavy!
I had my master cylinder replaced under warranty like 5 years ago. It still creaks.
yep, needs the constant lubing on the actuator rod if you want to keep the squeaks away. Rod might even need rotating if it has become worn and scored on one side.
Supposed to be fixed in the A04 part.
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/honda-ge...4-version.html
No idea about long term though.
There's also this: http://www.mandm-honda.com/shop/prod...product_id=219
Get the clutch slave cylinder replaced and squeak be gone!
nope. thats been covered mate. people replaced it and the squeek back within 3-6 months. its a fault in the design of the MC.
I now keep a can of white lithium spray grease with a long nozzle in the back of the car. Seemed the cheapest / less involved solution to it all. Seems to last longer with each application too - probably because there's a fair bit of grease in there now.
thats what i do too! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard B
Nope, changed mine about 5 years ago and the squeak has not returned. Yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by jjman
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ah ok, sweet!.
i did see someone note that at some point honda did upgrade the MC they used as the replacement and that this might indeed solve this issue. was it you saying this or perhaps can you confirm if you received this updated part?
-because there was many people who said they had the MC replaced under warranty back when these cars were new (mid 2000s) and they said it only fixed the problem for a short time before returning.