Nice man... if it has a climate control that's not cracked pull it out and sell it to me hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by michael.908
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Nice man... if it has a climate control that's not cracked pull it out and sell it to me hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by michael.908
As in the ac controller in the centre console? If so sorry man it's cracked as **** hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by wheytastic
Of course it is hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by michael.908
Should be a sweet project man... do you plan on doing a motor conversion
Nah the d16a8 pulls pretty good at the moment and we don't wanna add any power to it just yet cos we wanna get used to track driving first. Maybe a turbo later on down the line.Quote:
Originally Posted by wheytastic
Brake pads, tyres and an oil change.
Where you at Michael?
Suspension upgrades and semi-race tyres on 15 x 6.5 rims for a start. If you don't want to go whole hog with adjustable coilovers, Skunk2 make shortened sports shocks, find'em on US ebay. Local lowered King springs (superlows for racing). 20mm swaybars and new bushes. If you stick with the "D" and it's a good motor, upgrade the early G/box to a later 89-91 (both have a 20 spline input shaft instead of the 21 spline in the 87-88's 190mm clutch, and can take the larger clutches available. 200mm for the 89 and 212mm for 90-91 and the later EG's). Brakes you can upgrade to front 262mm using DA9 Integra booster, M/cylinder, prop valve, calipers, hubs/knuckles, they will also lower the front about another 12mm or so. Replacing the front LCA with the DA9 one will give a bit more negative camber, but requires filing the forward bolt hole in the stock traction bar about 3mm longer to get the bolt to match up with the LCA bolt hole. If you want to retain the rubber RTA main bushes, the DA9 RTA also is a direct replacement for the ED9/EF7 one and has the larger bush with bulkier connectors in the bush. These are relatively cheap upgrades for a fun road/track car. Can be done a bit at a time.
What I forgot to mention clutch wise is the need to get the appropriate flywheel to match the different size clutches, definitely in the case of the 190mm but not sure if the 212mm will fit the 200mm.
ACT make a range of performance clutches for the 87/88 gearbox.
Can someone tell me what this flap is for on my intake
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...911d1f6251.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...ddafa1a1ee.jpg
It's connected to a clutch looking thing connected to a fuel line or something
IIRC it pulls hot air off your header to bring the car to operating temperature quicker (reducing fuel economy).
Is it needed? I've been thinking about messing around with my carbs so I'm wanting to take the whole cover off and run some motorcycle cone filters with cut springs in the carbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by ~Sp33~
The car will never run as good as it will with all the factory vacuum lines in place, but it will still run with that flap removed.
Make sure you know where everything goes though, ive seen a few ED's now that have the emissions stuff taken off to do the 'motorbike filter' mod and end up just running like crap and they can't work out how to put it back together.
The carby models had a mass of tubes going all over the place, early PGM-FI's weren't much better. That particular vacuum valve is as Sp33 says, draws warmed air off the exhaust headers to help vaporise the fuel entering the engine on and just after start-up. The warm air hose is that one underneath with the insulation wrapped around it. Provided it's working correctly, that valve will open fully once the engine reaches temperature to let air through from the filter. There will be a water heating connection, sometimes directly from the head (or by hoses) to the inlet manifold that takes over the heating. Emissions control stuff that's removed can cause all sorts of problems for daily driving. If it was a dedicated race car being run WOT, might be different.
Just to add to that, I had a Valiant Charger back in the 90's that had a Cain alloy intake manifold that was not attached to the exhaust manifold (hotspots they were called, which prevented the intake from freezing) and had a 4 barrel carby. Great while cruising down the hi-way, gave some good power, but when you got back into traffic, drove like a dog, 'cause the fuel was icing up in the intake. Took a good 15 minutes for the manifold (big, long curved runners on it) to warm up enough to vaporise the fuel. Cross flow engines, have to rely on this sort of system to do the job.
So bad idea to get rid of it? I'm wanting to modify the metal air filter cover so that the carbs get more flow rather than the air going through seemingly one small areaQuote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
For street use and fuel economy, a bit of warmth in the intake air is a good thing, otherwise you're just chucking unburnt fuel out the exhaust. For racing you're after the maximum amount of air expansion in the cylinders you can get, hence cold air and max fuel. If you do away with that device, you'll get poor performance till the coolant reaches a high enough temperature to take over the warming of the intake. There's a big misconception that liquid petrol burns, it doesn't until it vaporises i.e. becomes a gas. That requires heat. Domestic market engines are designed this way to aid that process before the fuel/air mixture enters the combustion chamber. Where you have cold air entering the chamber, the droplets of liquid fuel (which is what they are, either from carbies or EFI), don't become gas until the heat from the spark plugs vaporise the fuel close to them and produce a flame front (heated air) that spreads to the rest.
This is why you see great spurts of fire from dragster exhausts, it's all wasted energy that wasn't used in the engine, but that's the price they pay to get what they want.
I have a 91 ed civic and was wondering what I'm supposed to do with the vacuum lines if I want to run cone filters on my dual carbs? There seems to be quite a few hoses running from the filter cover case to various places and I'm not sure if they're important or what to do with them. Any help would be appreciated
The only thing I can suggest is get a small vise grip, clamp each hose off 1 at a time and see what effect that has.
I ran the car with them all open for a bit and nothing seemed to be affected or I couldn't tell at least so I'm not sure if I can just remove them or what.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
The last carby'd car I had was the GA2 City and that was only a single. It had enough hoses to deter me from touching them. As I remember several went into a "box". Never found out what was in there, so can't help you on which may or may not, if any, can be done away with, or what the effects might be.
Look at it this way, if they served no purpose Honda wouldn't have fitted them.
When you say you've run the car, have you driven it or just let it idle? Was the car hot or cold. IMO you are asking for trouble removing the hoses. As people have said above putting them all back when the car runs like a dog is not going to be fun.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...00fb80fa00.jpg
Anyone know why Honda made these screws out of the weakest metal ever? Mine striped as soon as I applied the smallest amount of pressure.
Usually caused be using a too small screwdriver tip. Phillips head screws require a close fitting tip of the correct size. The age of these would also mean, the threads have probably seized.
http://i2.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/...27/247/7b7.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by michael.908
One reason, they are not Phillips head screws they are JIS, you need a JIS screwdriver to fit properly and avoid damaging the head. A Phillips head driver will "work" but does not fit perfectly resulting in it slipping out and stripping. The small dot on the screw head identifies it as JIS, Google will tell you the differences...Quote:
Originally Posted by michael.908
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...49494fcc10.jpg
The other reason as mentioned is they are old and probably never been taken out and seized.
That is interesting, haven't heard of that one, I guess JIS stands for Japanese Industry Standard? Wonder if the threads are a different pitch to others as well.
Here's some info to either cure insomnia or cause it, http://www.ring-plug-thread-gages.co...rticle-JIS.pdf
Yes, JIS is Japanese Industrial Standard.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
The threads are standard metric, I haven't bothered comparing the spec but I've never had another metric screw of the same nominal diameter fail to thread where a JIS screw was used.
There is another called posidrive which can be confused with standard Phillips drive as well, but I doubt you would see them on an old Honda.
So, everyone go out now and buy themselves a JIS screwdriver and see how much easier it is to undo without damaging JIS screw heads!!!
Is there a way to tune carbs for a larger power band? Similar to efi. Or is that just not possible?
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to rc_ again.
fuking magic bro
Do you have any of this said "magic"?Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Yes, bigger main jets. Not sure what type of carbies were fitted to yours, but if they are the type with a tapered needle that lifts out of the jet to allow fuel to enter the airstream, then both needles and jets would need replacing as a matched pair.Quote:
Originally Posted by michael.908
Today was finish stripping down My crx
Currently planning on respraying.. Just need to get all the consumables,buy the paint and find the time and good weather to do it lol
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