Lol i never reckon those work, but worth a try. Use the end of a vuvuzela for a velocity stack
@asgr8, is that the same as the OEM-dealership-extra navi you can get here?
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Lol i never reckon those work, but worth a try. Use the end of a vuvuzela for a velocity stack
@asgr8, is that the same as the OEM-dealership-extra navi you can get here?
i don't think it would be curtis265, looks different, plus i dont recognise the sd caard panel on the right, and for $380 i don't think it would be OEM.
lol inbox emptied now :DQuote:
Originally Posted by iou
getting an exhaust system.... whats the diff in getting a 60mm to getting a 70mm system? would the 70mm have less back pressure and therefore less performance? n which would be louder =/
The general consensus is that 2.25"-2.5" is for NA setups, and >3" for turbo.
So... 60mm = 2.36", 70mm = 2.75". I'd go for the 60mm system. Loudness isn't really related to exhaust diameter.
but the smaller the diameter the greater the back pressure generally yeah? therefore better performance? theoretically..
If it's too small, yes. If it's too large u get what's called a 'scavenging effect' which will make the velocity too slow at low RPM and won't have the natural 'pulling' effect of the exhaust waves from the right sized pipe.
from http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Miscella...austtheory.htmQuote:
We've seen quiet a few "experienced" racers tell people that a bigger exhaust is a better exhaust. Hahaha… NOT.
As discussed earlier, exhaust gas is hot. And we'd like to keep it hot throughout the exhaust system. Why? The answer is simple. Cold air is dense air, and dense air is heavy air. We don't want our engine to be pushing a heavy mass of exhaust gas out of the tailpipe. An extremely large exhaust pipe will cause a slow exhaust flow, which will in turn give the gas plenty of time to cool off en route. Overlarge piping will also allow our exhaust pulses to achieve a higher level of entropy, which will take all of our header tuning and throw it out the window, as pulses will not have the same tendency to line up as they would in a smaller pipe. Coating the entire exhaust system with an insulative material, such as header wrap or a ceramic thermal barrier coating reduces this effect somewhat, but unless you have lots of cash burning a hole in your pocket, is probably not worth the expense on a street driven car.
Unfortunately, we know of no accurate way to calculate optimal exhaust pipe diameter. This is mainly due to the random nature of an exhaust system -- things like bends or kinks in the piping, temperature fluctuations, differences in muffler design, and the lot, make selecting a pipe diameter little more than a guessing game. For engines making 250 to 350 horsepower, the generally accepted pipe diameter is 3 to 3 � inches. Over that amount, you'd be best off going to 4 inches. If you have an engine making over 400 to 500 horsepower, you'd better be happy capping off the fun with a 4 inch exhaust. Ah, the drawbacks of horsepower. The best alternative here would probably be to just run open
exhaust!
Less backpressure -> less performance = myth
Assuming you don't go overboard with pipe diameter I.e 3" all the way on na
Thinking of hooking up my hibeams as DRL's like here
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/light...low-beams.html
or
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/light...no-switch.html
Has anyone tried this?
I'm currently using a 20W parking light bulb in the normal 5W slot, and I usually drive day / night with parkers on.
I'm thinking this DRL using a resistor and highbeams running at a percentage of their maximum could be cool though
thoughts?
Haha, the DRL circuit isn't included in the audm FD's because it's not required by law and would be cheaper for honda to produce it without that extra 2m of wiring in it.
Basically, we don't have it, so it won't run on low power like DRL's should. (u cant add fuse 37 either.. i tried ages ago)
You cant use a 20W parker because that's going to set things on fire.
You cant use use a resistor on ur high beam because... to haev the DRL on you'd have to use ur highbeams, meaning the lowbeams will be on, meaning you lose highbeam functionality.
Nah nah I'm talking about introducing a completely different circuit in.
just need to connect up:
- battery;
- switch / or connected to an accessories wire to turn them on automatically when key is turned;
- resistor ( to limit the current to the light - hence making it less bright)
- fuse (safety first)
- grounding.
So tapping a separate circuit connected to the high beams.
The only issue I can see is if you tried to turn the high beams on whilst the DRL's were on.. might blow the fuse / bulb.
Should work no?
anyone had experience with kakimoto exhaust?