you would know if you paid for it!
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you would know if you paid for it!
Its not on the invoice so I guess not.
Do you mind explaining in more detail rather than one line questions?
explaining what in particular? you have not asked a question???
this is an OEM crank girdle on a B18C:
http://www.tkrace.com/orignpictures/...k_w_girdle.jpg
this is the OEM B20B crank & main caps:
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/xm...ttom_End_1.jpg
on a side note, if you have time - read this:
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone/
i know it is too late for you now, but it is a good read none-the-less...
(AND SHOULD BE REQUIRED READING FOR ANYONE BUILDING A B20)
Thanks, I have read that article yes.
I should rephrase, what do you mean by brace the crank? - I assume girdle? My mistake, i believe mine is not braced if that is what you are referring to. Correction from what I said before.
I am using arp main studs with the factory main caps.
yes, there is only one way to brace the crank, and that is with some form of girdle...
http://www.tkrace.com/orignpictures/...k_w_girdle.jpg
Tinkerbell, do you think it is absolute necessity on a performance b20 build?
any situation where the person decides that for their intended purposes they would like to add additional strength to the bottom end to make sure it stays together...
this is for when you are getting really serious:
http://erlperformance.com/components...jdbg0004_1.jpg
this is 300kW+ territory
more information than needed, but appreciated anyway.
Dave what are your thoughts regarding my theory of the some batch of OEM B20 bores having irregular looking bores which often cause them more prone to crack.
ie.
The top of the bore circumference is a lot thinner than the rest ....
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/3076/img6746vc.jpg
vs
my block, which has survived over 50,000kms
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3215932_n.jpg