Setup for my D series

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

WOW thats alot of information there lol i will do some reading up in my spare time
another thing ive been hearing from a few people locally is that i gunna have to lower my compression or something like that for the turbo ???

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there are a few ways of doing this. You might have to ask lukenzen or limbo to see what they did with there old D series turbo setups. Some keep the stock compression and run 8psi fine with it. The advantages of lowering the compression is that you will loose a little power on the stock motor but gain alot on being able to put more boost in the motor. I dont think the stock D series rods can handle over 11psi even if you lower the compression.

Lowering the compression can be done the proper way by buying new low comp pistons, they come in may different compression ratios to suit what setup you want. Mine are 9:1 my stock motor is 10.4:1 i believe. So this allows me to boost it quit a bit.

You can also lower you compression the make it do way by buying an extremely thick head gasket basically bringing the gap between the head and the block apart thus creating more air in the chamber between the piston and the top of the head = less compression. Im not to sure how much you loose on it but i wouldnt say it wouldnt be more than .5

Lowering your compression also causes less torque/power before boost comes on so streetablity slowely goes out the window. I dont find it to bad but some people have 8:1 comp ratio. That why alot of guys on here buy B series motors and keep the stock high comp ratio and boost it as much as they can on the stock setup. Thus giving them there stock NA power + boost.

I had it like that once apon a time ago and its much nicer to drive as a daily street car.

WTF people

I got my piping off eBay US and never looked back..

Its now on its second boosted motor :thumbsup:

Nothing a dremil can't fix...

Yer i originally got my piping off ebay also. Whats good about the setup i got is the piping came complete all in stainless steel and i got it for really cheap. Under $100 delivered...

But that was 4 years ago or more and these days they only have that cheap alluminium crap that bends really easy.

With my piping setup tho it wasnt even close to fitting. But lucky i had some extra silicone grommets and a angle grinder. I had almost half of the piping in left overs from off custs in the end. Then i plugged it all up the way i wanted it and found to many leeks in the grommets so now i only have 4 of the silicone joins all up. 2 on the front mount, one on the intake and one on the turbo.

alright guys have a look at this GT

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...2_727264_4.htm

Journal bearing

If it has an R then its ballbearing

look at the main garrett site
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ochargers.html

if you notice the GT2860 is available in journal bearing which is used in the GTRs

That's why some of them change to GT2860RS.

A Guide To Garrett’s "GT" Model Numbers

GTxxyyzz:

Positions "xx" refers to the frame size of the turbine wheel inducer.
For example the "GT28" in "GT2860RS" refers to its turbine wheel frame size family. All GT28 units use a turbine wheel with 53.85mm inducer diameter
As a rule of thumb, the larger the number, the larger the turbine wheel.
Positions "yy" designate the compressor wheel exducer (major) diameter in millimeters
The "60" in the GT2860RS example above has a 60mm compressor wheel exducer diameter.
Note: Wheel sizes 100mm and over omit the "1" (hundreds digit)
Example: the 02 in a GT4202 refers to its 102mm compressor wheel exducer diameter
Positions "zz" may be used to designate special features of a particular turbocharger where applicable
Example: GT2860RS
"R" = this is a Ball Bearing unit
"S" = used for units which require some differentiation from units in the same family
Compare a GT2860R to a GT2860RS. While both are ball bearing and externally similar, the GT2860RS is better suited for higher-flow applications than the GT2860R. In this case, the S reflects the higher-flowing nature of the GT2860RS


straight from garrett
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...gt_basics.html

ahk well how much are a set of good low comp pistons and what ratio would i run or is it not worth doing this and keeping it stock and running 8Psi...?

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Originally Posted by Jiztec

ahk well how much are a set of good low comp pistons and what ratio would i run or is it not worth doing this and keeping it stock and running 8Psi...?

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as i said before...doing the rods means a rebuild, so does the pistons. it will cost alot if your not doing it yourself. If your doing it yourself you could do rod's, pistons, bearings, rings, full gasket/seal rebuilt kit, new oil and water pump, your looking at $1700 if you do the work yourself.

Trust me its not worth it. your going to get more than enough with it running 8psi on high comp setup. When you crack your motor apart its never the same again. Leave the engine oem and just push it as much as you can safely.

Ahk so just keep most things stock and get it tuned well so it can run safely.
Because the T28 from Kerim is 2nd hand should i take it to a shop and get it looked at ?
it needs to be clocked also but ive read its not hard to do and i could do it myself..

Nah if kerim's legit...dont know him to much myself but others might. Its should be ok. You can feel shalf play with your hand. if you turn or try to rock the turbine with your hand you should be able to feel shaft play...it will wobble around.

Otherwise if it spins freely it should be all good.

Clocking is piss. loosen 4-6 13mm bolts holding the compressor housing on and just turn the thing around to the position you want to setup your intercooler piping to connect to it.

just loosen the bolts do not take them out otherwise you may damage the fins if u don't know what to do

P.S i never had a turbo D but i helps with builds of some.
Most just do a stock engine with turbo. If your new, i'd only run about 8PSI which will net you about 109kwatw.

a good turbo for the D is a GT28R or a GT28 both can be had from s13-s15 turbos.
Usually can be had for about $500, new is like $1300.

I helped with a build with a D16y4 and it ran well with a GT28R

Things to check for, fins with no damage, & zero shaft play (.5mm movement is normal even on a new turbo)

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Originally Posted by Limbo

P.S i never had a turbo D but i helps with builds of some.
Most just do a stock engine with turbo. If your new, i'd only run about 8PSI which will net you about 109kwatw.

a good turbo for the D is a GT28R or a GT28 both can be had from s13-s15 turbos.
Usually can be had for about $500, new is like $1300.

I helped with a build with a D16y4 and it ran well with a GT28R

Things to check for, fins with no damage, & zero shaft play (.5mm movement is normal even on a new turbo)

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ahhh i thought u had a D...prolly thinkin of someone else...

Yeh the GT28r's are good they been selling for aroud $700 but my bloody one wont sell cos of the welded internal gate..soo annoying.