so b series conversions are on par or better than d series turbo'sconversions?
good try mate any way
u will do better next time for sure good mph too
may be borrow some 15's
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so b series conversions are on par or better than d series turbo'sconversions?
good try mate any way
u will do better next time for sure good mph too
may be borrow some 15's
Most definitely room for improvement..
I didn't get one run right IMO but yeah things I need to improve
1. Raise the back coilovers as my car slops down at the back now the springs have settled.
2. Maybe remover the Down force Wing I have on the back?
3. 15" that would clear my ITR brakes.
4. Maybe even put my stock bumpers on but fuk that would be a pain in the ass..
5. Never wear steel caps for 1/4 :o
But all in all hella fun night :)
Yeah sorry man that was looking like a good little run
ITR brakes fit under EK4 rims :)
Step One
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...70#post1777570
:thumbsup:
Nice work mate! dam good for your first time.
Few things i would add (even though some may have been suggested)
*Buy some 15s and get some tyres on there with biggest profile as possible say 205 55/60. dc2 Fat 5s would be pretty good.
*Do some basic weight reduction. stuff thats easily removeable, but you still want to race your car in oem standard trim condition. So spair wheel, tools, a sub box? etc etc
* When Lauching a turbo car you actually want to lauch it spooled up as much as possible. In my experience launching at low held constant revs does not do this. Rev it agressively... then Full throttle on clutch drop. If your tyres are down to a nice low pressure you should have minimal wheel spin.
* Front damper Soft, Rear Damper Hard.
* (Might sound nooB-ish) Dont rev out your car to the point your bouceing off rev limiter, youd be surprised how much time you loose. Learn to change right before your rev cut. (assumeing your makeing your peak power close to your rev cut)
* Gear changes as quick as possibly. NA IMO doesnt really matter (As much) .. but the longer your shifts take in FI means the more pressure your looseing in your pipework. In a sence, ever time you do a slow shift, you loose all your 10psi of boost.. going back to 0psi. This means your power is going from 130wkw back to 70wkw. Then on your next gear engagement it will take a fraction of a second to build boost again. (hence going from 70wkw back to 130wkw)
* launches are most important. If you can get good launches / 60fts you would be surprised how much this improves your overall time.
Some of these things might seem small. But when lots of small percentages add up they equal something that does make a difference. Sometimes 1 - 2 seconds.
Questions
What MPH does it say on your time slip?
What do you mean your car was "dieing"
Did you make yourself launch on green? or did you take your time?
When you launched... do you actually have to wait for your boost to kick? or are you launching ON boost allready?
*** Remember you car only makes 130wkw at 10PSI... not at 0 PSI (makes 70wkw). so you want to keep it at full boost (or close to it) the WHOLE time your raceing. ie flat shifts (if your game) or quick shifts (practice) and very agressive launches (practice again).
IMO if you can Launch on boost.. rather then waiting for it... your MPH WILL get higher. And if you can put the power to the ground without breaking any traction this should bring down your 60foot. End result i believe mid to high 13.
I suppose Mr "Naturally Aspirated" a few pages back doesnt under this concept.
questions and comments welcome
Regards Lyle