Can somebody please post some info on what the flow rates are on the Honda Injectors. Please also list the ohms resistance too.
Im in the shit with mine atm..
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Can somebody please post some info on what the flow rates are on the Honda Injectors. Please also list the ohms resistance too.
Im in the shit with mine atm..
http://www.hondata.com/techinjectorwiring.html
All B 16 / b18type R injectors are the same size.. standard injectors are still fine for a high comp b16/b20 setup with aftermarket cams ;-)
Regards James
that link doesnt give me the flow rates James ..
All B honda injectors flow at 240cc ;-) thats common.. as for the resistance use that link on how 2 make low imp injectors into high.
Regards James
so ur saying that by doing this on my Civic VTir wiring - which uses high resistance injectors, i can rewire it to use the low resistance injectors ?
yep! all should be the same. 240cc.
PS: wassup James?! I sent you an email mate.
Hey Joe ! hmm email ? im not sure if i got it.... which email addy did ya send it 2.. ?> ? james@hondata.com.au ??
All Honda modern injectors are high impendence, in the older 1988 Hondas, Honda used low impendence, along with a resistor box to make the low impedance injectors high impendence, the same can be done to day. ie use a resistor box to make your low impedance injectors high impedance, thus compatible with the stock ECU.
Regards James
This sounds like more screwing around just to see if these injectors are a solution to our fuel problem.
I just want a viable solution to make my new engine run to its built capacity. Cutting wires and adding a resistor pack just so a set of 'trial and error' ejectors doesnt seem a step in the right direction to me. No offence but it just doesnt sound like a solution.
James, what would you do - given ur knowledge on my car and engine?
What is wrong with yours and what do you want to do?
You can always up the fuel pressure a bit to get more fuel in.
Adding in a resistor pack will mean you need low imp. injectors.
get a adj. FPR and fuel pressure gauge...
then you can make the flow rates of the stock injectors whatever you want (within reason)
I had a friend have his say on this subject ..Quote:
Originally Posted by BLKCRX
Well, it's pretty simple actually. There are 2 type of injectors on the market, saturation and peak-and-hold. Saturation injectors are your typical 12 or so ohm injector (the ITR one in my hand tests at 11.4 ohms) that use a low amperage signal to open and close them.
Basic electronic theory can demonstrate this by ohm's law. A 12 ohm injector supplied 12 volts of power will draw exactly 1 ampre of power (12/12=1). The problem you get with saturation injectors is because such a low current is used they can be a little sluggish at opening and closing (though this rating is in the milli-seconds). But you gain reliability and no need for expensive drivers to run the circuit.
Peak-and-hold on the other hand uses much lower resistance (2-4 ohm in most cases). Follow the same laws of electricity and you get 3-6 ampre to drive that injector. Because these injectors are supplied with a burst of amperage, they are able to operate at much faster speeds. The same design can be seen is your car speakers. If you use a low wattage (wattage is a measurement of amperage X voltage) amplifier, the speakers will move slower and less precise. Upgrade the amp for a higher wattage one and you will see the speaker change direction faster and move harder. It's really a rough comparison but the same principles apply. Also note that peak-and-hold injectors have a high burst opening but a relatively low hold current.
Ok, so what are they trying to entail on that site, simple really. It shows you how to use peak-and-hold injectors on a saturation system. By raising the ohm
rating of the injectors (via injector resister box) you are able to drive peak-and-hold injectors like saturation injectors on a saturation injector system.
You don't gain anything since the peak-and-hold injectors now operate like saturation injectors (sluggish open) but you do get the benefit of the larger flow of the new injectors.
If you try to run peak-and-hold injectors on a saturation injector controller (the Honda ECU), you will end up burning out the controller (again the Honda ECU) because the ECU will see a lower ohm rating and will attempt to give it the power needed, the 6 amps through something designed to flow only 1 (much like using a 1 ohm speaker on a max 4 ohm amplifier, poof). On the flip side though, with a peak-and-hold controller, it can flow the 6 amps of power, so using saturation injectors will only demand 1 (though again it will operate as a saturation system).
Honestly it's a pointless practice. If you must use peak-and-hold injectors, there are only 2 ways to pull it off. One is make the low ohm injectors look like
saturation injectors (raising the injector ohm's from 2 to 12 respectively) or convert to a peak-and-hold controller (the AEM EMS does this for example). Since most people are cheap they buy the high end injectors and then convert them to work like the stock ones but with bigger flow. Honestly it would be better just to buy saturation injectors in the first place and save
yourself the time since in the end they work the same, but again that's just me. Just out of curiosity what were you told it meant, I'm dying to hear it!
Source Name withheld
huh? sounds like pornstars ramblings...
so what exactly is your issue?
ask a question, dont tell us what other people are saying - what do YOU want to know?