hey Im looking at stage 2 cams to put in my car and was considering brain crower cam package for $1000 you get cams, Valves, valvesprings and Retainers?? Any thoughts would be great =]
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hey Im looking at stage 2 cams to put in my car and was considering brain crower cam package for $1000 you get cams, Valves, valvesprings and Retainers?? Any thoughts would be great =]
Get some Toda cams cams b or c but you need to spen more than 1k
how much you reckon? im chasing around 140kw at the wheels
ah, it will be a HELL of a lot more than 1k.. for 140atw.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beechy
yeah i no i got like 5k to play with but only wanna spend like 1k on cams
Lol low budget and big figures just dont mix,need more than 5k
lol at this thread.
This is not need for speed there generally isnt stage 1 2 or 3, and if there is there is usually a street stage 1 -3 and drag 1 -3.
for 140kw atw, you will need AT LEAST
toda headers -$1000 -$1200
injen intake / mugen intake ( a real one not a replica ) $450 - $700
hondata - $ 800
tuning - $ 600 - 1000
Cams, Cam Gears, Springs, Retainers Timing belt - $ 2500 - 3000 at least and i would stay with toda gear if you include port work which you will probably need theres another $1k
(prices are a rough guess purely to prove a point!)
and before you do any of this, you should be checking the stability of your engine, is it in good enough condition to be upgrading yet?
cant just jump on the tuning band wagon before doing your general servicing, theres another few hundred. ( depending on your oils filters ect. )
Your best bet is to go and speak to a local tuner who knows hondas! tell them your budget and let THEM tell you what to expect.
where are you locatated? if you are in sydney, have a chat to Adrian at Toda, he has looked after me from the start of my integra's life right up until now. if you want any information have a look through the thread or pm me and ill point you in the right direction.
Read the last half dozen pages of this thread:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ndatory/page46
And see what Adrian from TODA is doing with his B18's.
Keep your valves stock.
I/H/E.
Good port work.
Good cams.
Shave a little.
ECU + tune.
Lol at this post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexplicit
If you pay anywhere near that sum for all of those parts.. You paid about $2000 more than you needed.
You buy parts from the US/Japan or wherever you wish.. And have the Motor built in Australia.. Never source your parts here, it's expensive as shit.
Actually if you buy your Toda parts through me & I get the work,Quote:
Originally Posted by Jccck
The cams, springs, pulleys & belt will cost you $2079 incl GST (at today's exchange rate)
If you buy them online, today you'll pay at least $2320 for the same parts landed (no taxes)
If you were in Japan, you'd pay $2073 if you managed you skip the 5% consumption tax
If we add Toda header's then the price goes up to $3590
This is still cheaper than online stores...
(we also beat any online stores for supply if we get the work)
I know a few other reputable places that do the same too
Anyway, you go your way...
Just remember not all cams & headers are created equal & you kinda do get what you pay for.
Ofcourse, you're right.Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
But this man appears to be on a budget, and a $1500 Header isn't exactly good on the Power:Cost ratio.
He wants his goal, we're supposed to be pointing him towards a good solution.. Not the best of the best that is totally unnecessary and costs more than the car itself.
Every time somone asks for advice, all i see is high end stuff being recommended to people with relatively standard cars, and little car knowledge.
We're supposed to be helping, aren't we? Let's be realistic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jccck
An incorrect point was raised regarding parts I sell & I just replied to set that straight.
Re the OP’s boggle… Looking at both the budget & the power target,
To meet the target, realistically the budget needs to grow.
Or the power target should be revised down as it won’t be met.
Another issue is that not just anyone can meet the original power target with a std bottom end.
I can… (Been there – done that)
& guess what… It never works when you try & do it with low end parts.
How to do it is here:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...W-b18cr/page13
Dyno proof is here:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ndatory/page46
No snake oil, no smoke & mirrors… straight up with proven results.
I think that’s being realistic.