problems Tuning. any idea's?

guys needs some help. my car is at the tuners at the moment. just got my turbo kit on and they installed my vafc 2. there having problems with tuning it because apparently my ecu isnt doin what it should. its counteracting with the tuning on the Vafc. and every time you try and put the fuel up on the vafc it will go down or up too much and with either lean out or become to rich. hes going threw all the Sensors and the wiring first then gonna try and replace the ECU to see if thats the problem. anyone got any idea's

what ECU do u have?? is it factory or aftermarket..

If its aftermarket depending on what type u dont need your VAFC as it will have these functions in it..

and if its Factory and u have a turbo set-up i think u should sell the VAFC and buy a aftermarket ECU...

Fastfwd, vafc needs to be run like a "hack" for it to work with boost. Go back to the tuner and ask if there is a map bypass of some sort, if there isnt, the stock honda ecu will be throwing the CEL and going into limp mode.

the problem is you're trying to tune a turbo with a vafc(yes, I know it's possible, but it's a horrible option). Sell it, and get some real engine management.

ohh i deffinatly wanna get a power FC or an aftermarket management system like autronics or motec but right now i have spent to much on my car - i want it to run with what i have with minimal boost then ill upgrade after that. ive done a twin carb d series swap to a b16a2 then chucked on the t04e garret turbo with cam gears, pully kit, 3inch mandrel bend turbo back exhaust, fuel pressure reg, bigger fuel pump and a few other mods.

Porn star: what did you meen by it chucking it into limp mode?

they place thats doin my car put my engine in - and its still under warranty so if it was stuffed from the beggining i think there going to fix it. ever since i got my engine in there it was running rich on the bottom end.

i know its going to suck to tune the vafc thats why im not doin it. but for the next 6 months i just want it to run on that until i get a autronics or power FC.

limp mode, when the stock ecu sees boost

do urself a big favour and get onto the autronic or power FC now. Unless you want to continue hurting ur engine as it is.

pull off the fuel regulator and fuel pump, buy some injectors, and use uberdata until you have the money for a power fc... far far superior option, and won't cost you much of anything... probably less money than the dyno tuning you're using to tune the vafc

pornstar i wish i had a money tree. i've spent over 15 000 on my engine in the last 6 months.

saxman: why you reckon pull of the reg and fuel pump. i might be getting some injectors. whats uberdata - is it a premapped ecu?

uberdata is a freeware, it works the same as hondata, it plugs a chip into ur stock ecu. Basically if ur obd1 or if u use a conversion harness from obd2-1 for obd2 cars witha socketed obd1 ecu, u can make them tuneable with uberdata

Im guessing saxman said to remove the pump and reg, so that it can be used with less comlpications as more basemaps would be around to support standard pump and reg tunes (correct me if im wrong saxman)

the fuel pump may be needed... just remembered you were running a little carb d16 before, but for the fuel regulator, the stock one works perfectly fine. At 6-8 psi, there's absolutely no reason to be messing with the fuel pressure.

Uberdata is an ecu software, just like hondata, etc... only it's free.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pornstar

Im guessing saxman said to remove the pump and reg, so that it can be used with less comlpications as more basemaps would be around to support standard pump and reg tunes (correct me if im wrong saxman)

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actually, I said it because he's complaining about not having enough money to pay for the most important part of the turbo set up, when he has these extra parts, that are offering absolutely no gain what so ever, sitting there. Selling them and using the perfectly capable stock counter parts would pay for the better ecu hardware, and make for a FAR better engine set up.

Everything that you need to know about using the safc to add fuel is in this thread here

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=137901

It will not control the ignition timing of your engine, so expect to see about 30+ degrees of ignition timing at peak. Most people retard the timing at the dizzy and have a trade off of poorer performance down low due to the reduced timing.

You could also find that the car will be faster using this method then using an ecu to control the engine, as you will be running higher ignition timing. Let it be known though, you are putting the engine in dangor using this method.