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Hey guys, what would be a good camber setup for a FWD car for both front and rear, i am going to be borrowing a mate's set of camber pins for the track day so i'll need to set them up and i'm unsure what degree i'll need them set at.
I have been told -1.5 front and no more than -1 on the rear so far.
Can anyone comment???
IMO
i think thats fair
no more neg camber is necessary
also depends how much uve lowered ur car
Go out to the track and adjust it after a few laps. Simple. The best answer you'll get will just be a good starting point. Tune it to your liking, not someone elses.
the more - camber on the front will give you better steering and handling, not sure about the back though. try it out a few laps and see how you like it
Tyre grip will only increase with camber up to a point.
You won't get a better answer than "experiment on the track". Same deal with tyre pressures. You won't get a good answer, you have to experiment on your own.
??? take it to the wheel alignment place and get them to set maximum negative camber for fronts. They'll adjust toe, tell them to set it to 0 or as close as possible to 0.Quote:
Originally Posted by string
For the rears, we'll if you have adjustablility abit of camber won't hurt but you want grip at the back. ill research about it.
I prefer front negative camber -1.5, rear -1.0. Then set rear toe to toe in 1.0mm each side (total toe in 2.0mm) and then the fronts, I put toe out 0.3mm each side (total toe out 0.6mm) which will give better steering response.
Also, you have to check what is the camber and toe change is as the suspension is compressed.
Your rear camber setting will heavily depend on your relative front:rear roll stiffness.
Great info guys, thanks alot, with all this setup, say for example arronng's suggested setup, would it chew the tyres out quick on cruising there are back??? I heard from a guy that adjusting toe and camber would cause my tyres stress alot on highway cruising. I was thinking maybe i should just set the toe to 0 and put -1.5 on front and -1 on the back as most have suggested. Going to check my caster tomorrow and if it's out i'm gonna have to replace my front bushes and get some caster alignment bushes. Also while i got ur attention what brake pads do you guys use. I'll need a new set.
I'm using only 0.6mm total toe out on the front, which is very little compared to the stock settings of other cars. The rears which I have at 2.0mm total toe in is actually stock specification!Quote:
Originally Posted by loco_corolla
The downside of 0.6mm total toe out at the front is the car will follow camber as well as tramline a little more when you go across a groove that points straight ahead and to the right with your right tyre. It makes freeway travelling more tiring too because you have to keep the wheel straight with 2 hands. I've tried with 1 hand and my arm gets sore within 10 minutes. The upside is that if you jiggle the steering wheel by only 5mm each way, the car will move side to side as well. I like it, but it is not a setting for cars that will see mostly highway km.
negative camber at front will give understeer, i reckon is better if the front stays at zero for max traction & sharper reponse. rear is usually negative figures, it should be adjusted according to the amount of lean/bodyroll existing at the average speed of all corners for the specific track. however, cars that comes/equipped with LSD can gain more advantage through negative camber at the front.
Negative front camber gives understeer? Tell that to EVERY racer on the planet who runs front static camber. Less camber will give you more understeer.
The rear won't need much camber as it will be geting a fair bit of dynamic camber during roll.
Either way, no point running race ready alignment on the street if you're worried about tyre wear as you're only sacrificing track performance.