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had my service the other day and my brakes are close to nothing, so it seems i have to be replacing them.
I was interested in purchasing some front slotted/drilled Rotors for my model accord (seeing as I can get some the same price for OEM and look much hotter hah), would I have to modify anything else so they would fit properly? bigger calipers, new hub etc? or can I just replace them and everything will be fine?
You can get replacement rotors for your car. 100% bolt on.
Look up DBA or RDA
to enquire about replacement rotors.
yeah ive heard some chat about DBA rotors on the forums, but don't know where to pick them up. I searched the 'where 2 buy' forum and ebay and have no luck, any help ?
The rotors that I found where $160 for slotted + drilled front rotors but some no name so im unsure whether to go with them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rico
should be able to find a nearby stockist here
u can get the dba catalogue here and as far as i can tell ude be after no.470 for the fronts and no.471 for the rears (found i had an old catalogue on my comp :p). not sure about prices but personally ide be more inclined to go for a well known product than sumthing ive never heard of, ur choice tho.
gl with wateva u end up getting neway :)
Hey Rico, i know that dba offer standard and slotted only for our accord from what i saw on ther website. Are you changing yours yourself? A DIY would be great or if you dont mind giving me a hand on changing mine.
Rears are easy. Pretty much the same as most other hondas. Civics etc. I'm sure there is a diy on here somewhere for them.
The fronts are a bit trickier. The little Japanese man designing the accords must have had a bit of a brain melt down when it came to the front brakes. Basically the steps (that I followed, there are a number of ways that people do it) are:
1. With the car still on the ground crack the hub nuts.
2. Jack up car, take off front wheels etc...
3. Get someone to step on the brakes and crack the 4 bolts that hold the hub/bearing to the rotor.
4. Take off the brake caliper and caliper bracket. Suspend the caliper with zip ties or something so its not hanging on the brake line.
5. Undo the upper, lower and tie rod ball joints.
6. Take off the hub nut completely, then take the hub/knuckly assembly off the car.
7. Undo the 4 double hex bolts holding the hub/bearing to the knuckle. Undo the 4 rotor bolts you cracked earlier completely.
8. Now you should be able to separate the rotor from the hub/bearing. If you have trouble getting the hub/bearing out of the knuckle then get some longer bolts than the ones that were holding them together. Screw them in a bit and gradually tap evenly on opposing sides. It isn't pressed in so should come out fairly easily.
Thats it. Reassemble in reverse order. Remembering to replace the cotter pins for the ball joints. It really does need photos. If you'd like more details I can try.
On the CD, you just undo the 2 bolts holding the calipers to the bracket, and then take off the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the hub, Then, undo the 2 locking screws on the rotor using an impact screwdriver ($20 from supercheap) and then give the rotors a little tap with a hammer/mallet and it will just come off. Put some anti-sieze on the hub area, put the new rotors on and put on the locking screws, also using the impact screwdriver. Then put on the bracket and caliper in the reverse order, (you will have to compress the caliper piston to accomodate for the thicker new rotor) and voila, put the wheels on and pump the brakes to push the pads back onto the rotors before test driving.
Front is hub over rotor.
Ps. found a good diy on ht. He does it without taking the knuckle assembly off. Just makes seperating the hub/bearing a bit harder.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1281812
Ahh, I see. Those are a pain in the butt.
cheers guys, im thinking of getting a pro to do it for me seeing as i dont have the right tools
a friend of mine says i need to replace my brake pads once i put new rotors in, is that true?
hey guys just another question, does anyone know any good places in Sydney that can install the rotors? I was gonna get ben to do it for me but he said he doesnt have some of the right tools since the accord is a bit different to most other hondas when it comes to installing the rotors. Went down to A&B motor sports the other day and they quoted me $330 to get them put in, hmmm ouch.
the issues is the old pads will have an unever surface, and could score your brand new discs, so its better to just get new pads at the same timeQuote:
Originally Posted by Rico
pads are easy to do.
you know why it costs so much?
because you have to take off the knuckle assembly as well, the discs a pressed onto the hub.
so they have to take it all apart, then press it off.
not a simple exercise.
jaxx quickfit installed mine for free...
but i spend alot of money with them...
i have RDA slotted fronts, cost me $180 for the pair, got them cheap from a mate who imports...
your discs are easy though.Quote:
Originally Posted by EUR003act
you can do at home, without a press.
his car, you need a press.
You don't need a press. Nevertheless, unless you're clever you still have to take the knuckle off which is why it costs so much. Which is why doing it yourself is the best way to go. Only tool that would have made it a bit easier is a ball joint seperator. But that should cost under $20.
The only parts that are pressed together is the bearing onto the hub, which you don't need to take apart. The rotor is bolted onto the hub and the knuckle is bolted to the bearing.
The bearing is in their firmly but no where near pressed. Like I said earlier, Just get some long bolts that will fit the bearing thread, screw them in a bit and gradually tap it out.
Good time to consider doing the CD5 Wagon brake upgrade, 282mm discs and calipers pretty much the same as the VTEC Prelude/ITR but you need modify the bracket. Otherwise if you can get your hands on the wagon brake setup from wrecker its a direct bolt on.
BTW this setup works on CB7 accords as well