Dent repair and respray

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


Aim: To repair a dent on a metal surface, and respray.

Required: Body filler and hardener tube (hardener comes with body filler). Scraper/spatula, or body filler applicator. Flat metal sheet, to mix the body filler on. Sand paper, p320 - p600. Rag. Primer x2-3 cans, thinner's, 2pak paint/solvent, spray gun/compressor.


Steps:

Step 1. Be organised:
Get everything you need BEFORE hand so you dont have to run around looking for things and wasting time.
Scraper/spatular or applicator can be found for around $2-$4 at supercheap and other general hardware stores. I used "Exceed" body filler from autobarn.

Step 2. Firstly remove any loose/cracked paint on and around the the dent. Also Sand where the paint has peeled to even out the surface. Remove any materials that need to be protected from dust and dirt such as the spoilers backing.

the original damage, started sanding a little as you can see
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1300606011

Removing the backing. Easy to do
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1300605706

Looking better
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1300606011

Step 3. Preparing the surface:
Sand down the entire panel that needs respraying and Bogging(body filler). You dont have to sand down all the paint, it just needs to be prepared well and smooth enough for the primer. Start with p320 and finish off with p600, working your way down in grades. This will avoid deep visible scratches in the surface.

should look like this after a while.
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1300607542

Step 4. Mixing the Bog:
Now get a wet rag and clean the spoiler, getting rid of unwanted dust or residue. Once spoiler is nice and clean you may start mixing the Bog(body filler).
Get something to mix the bog like a small metal rod. Take the flat metal sheet, or something to mix the Bog on (Do not use cardboard!) and mix the bog with the tube of hardener. Refer to instructions. Usually it is 50 parts body filler to 1 part hardener by weight.

When you have mixed the Bog it should look something like this. Although when i took the picture it came out a little light, so try and go by this, but a bit darker.
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1300608621
Most body fillers have a little colour guide to go by when mixing.

Step 5. Applying the Bog(body filler):
Once Bog has been mixed take your applicator and apply bog firmly over the dent filling and covering surrounding surface. You need to apply the Bog over a larger area so you have room to work with when sanding. Bog should take approx. 10 minutes to dry.

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1300609527
Im terrible with analogies but here goes. When applying the bog it like spreading peanut butter on a sandwich, you want that even application filling the dent. Doesnt have to be perfect, as long its thick and applied over a good amount of surface.

Step 6. Sanding:
Once bog has dried you can start sanding. Once again start with p320 work your way down to p600. This part MUST be perfect. the slightest imperfection can be seen. In between sanding you need to run your hand along the panel to feel for an un-even surface. If you feel youve sanded too much and its still un-even another application may be needed. Sand until it feels PERFECT

Step 7. Primer:
Once you are satisfied with your Bog job clean the panel again. Get your primer and spray light even coats. You will usually need around 4-6 coats.
Go with what you think is nessecary

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1300610233

Step 7. Sanding...again:
After Primer you must sand again, leave absolutely no rough spots! must be smoother than a baby's butt! Finish off once again with p600 working your way down in grades.

Should look like this after sanding
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1300610545

Step 8. Respray, preparation:
If you are using a spray gun you need to clean it out with thinners, put a small amount of thinners in the spray gun and spray into a rag to clean/flush out old paint and residue. Now to mix the paint, I used 2k Spartan automotive black paint. place 1/4 of 2pak paint into your spray gun (you may need to use less if you are only doing a small panel). To one volume of paint, mix in 1 volume of solvent and 1 volume of thinners, mix thoroughly.
Once your paint is ready, re-attach your spray gun and make sure the small hole on top of the spray gun's lid is facing towards you. If you fail to do this paint will pour out whilst you are spraying.

Step 9. Respray, completion:
Now set your compressor to 2.5psi. Make sure your spoiler is clean and ready for respray. I highly recommend you spray indoors and not outdoors as you can get sunspots and matter on your fresh paint. When your ready start spraying, just like you would with a can, light even coats. 3 coats should do it. leave to dry for atleast 3 days before use, this will prevent any further damage to your panel.

Progress pics:
I didnt take many but heres a couple

cleaning the spray gun
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1301440092

mixing the paint
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1301440092

leaving to dry. It was a very dry day with no breeze what-so-ever so i put it in the sun for little while
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1301440092



Other comments: Hope you enjoyed it, dont forget to give everything a thorough clean once your done! :D
As soon the rain subsides i will add pics of the spoiler on my car

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1301536269

Any questions feel free to ask.

awsome ! ! ! !

a good way to check if your filler is totally smooth is to get a $3 can of black spray paint and lightly spray over the filled area (before or after the primer as been applied, doesnt matter), and then go over it with some 600-800 grit paper untill you cannot see anymore black spraypaint.

wooooooow,

can't wait to do it on my rear lip.

thanks +1 rep!

Excellent work Jeremy!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by grifty

a good way to check if your filler is totally smooth is to get a $3 can of black spray paint and lightly spray over the filled area (before or after the primer as been applied, doesnt matter), and then go over it with some 600-800 grit paper untill you cannot see anymore black spraypaint.

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Correct sir, guide coat!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DC2-PWR

wooooooow,

can't wait to do it on my rear lip.

thanks +1 rep!

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When you do it on plastic, remember that you need a different type of filler, they have plastic fillers aswell.

^^good stuff Tiksie, i learnt the hard way spraying plastic with normal primer a while back lol. So there are primers for plastics too Dc2-pwr, pretty much similar process different products.

Thanks guys.

Good stuff grifty, never thought of trying that!

A fine result jez. Good work ! +1

You don't need a spray gun to spray such a small part, just do it with a rattle can and get same results :D

yeah i thought about that but i want it perfect. im just really picky

You can get it perfect with a rattle can aswell:

Here is a front lip I did for a member on JDMST aswell:

Before:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1553.jpg
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1556.jpg

Sanded back with 380 wet/dry sandpaper:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1560.jpg

Primered with a few coats:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1561.jpg

Then hit it with some colour:
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/UNI_1562.jpg

Using the same steps as above.

Lip installed:
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6349/72230113.jpg

Agreed with Tiksie!

Can be done by hand and still look schmick! Good work mate!

good job! lip looked pretty good! ive used a number of well known paints and wasnt happy with the outcome through a can. but someone has turned me on to a marine paint which apparently is the best so i might give it a go

Great.....I will do it for my front lip as well !!!

DIY updated
Now complete! yipee

did you have a regulator on the air line?

I'd like to make a couple of comments.

Firstly, there are two types of filler, what has been referred to generically as "bog".

Acrylic friendly filler (is polyester based and sometimes called "Bondo" or "Bog") and 2Pac friendly filler (referred to as "Nikki").

Nikki (a resin based product)

http://www.vgautopaints.com.au/shop/...ads/HITEK2.jpg

Bog (polyester based)

http://www.vgautopaints.com.au/shop/...s/car_fix2.jpg

2Pac filler can be applied over existing paint. This makes it easier to use because you don't have as much sanding to do. On the other hand, Acrylic filler must only be applied over bare metal - that's what it is meant to adhere to. It is more work but the trade off is that it is cheaper than 2Pac filler. If you apply Acrylic filler over existing paint (whether it be Acrylic or 2Pac) you will have trouble later on down the line (could be 12 months or more). Nikki is also much lighter and should be used in applications where weight is a consideration - like on a racecar repair. Anyone doing this sort of work needs to be aware of all this.

Filler should be mixed on a flat surface like a sheet of glass but you can buy purpose-made "onionboard" which has tear-off sheets that you discard once you are finished. No clean-up required.

Secondly, you can sand and fill a blemish using coarse paper then go up to about 320 grit. The trick now is the apply spray putty in a couple of coats, then sand, then apply primer. This is easier than using multiple papers to get a smooth finish.

You should, as was suggested, then sand using the black guide coat method, with a flat sanding implement (not your hand or palm). If you have black patches left you need to concentrate on those areas as they are "low". Conversely, if you have bare patches (all the guide guide and undercoat is gone) then you have "high" spots. This part of the job will make or break your finish!

On larger panels you can implement "blending" so that you don't have to do the whole panel. I won't go into that here.

You can use Multi Purpose Thinners for undercoats, spray putty doesn't need to be thinned. Always use "Acrylic Thinners" for top coats as you will get a better shine. Although, ultimate shine is down to how well you adhere to the thinning mix. Too much thinners and you're paint will be dull and dry; too little and you get massive "orange peel".

I've just re-read the opening OP post and it mentions 2Pac. Never, I repeat, never spray 2Pac in your back yard. For starters it's illegal, and secondly, you run the risk of permanent damage to your health (esp. your nervous system) if you inhale it or even let it get on your skin as it will soak into your pores and even your tear ducts. If you do this, and you find yourself "weeping" from the eyes a couple of days later, you have yourself trouble. Not necessarily now, but maybe in 5 - 10 years as 2PAc contains poisons detrimental to your health. DON'T DO IT. EVER. It's not worth it. You need a full face respirator mask, full protective clothing and a water-based filtration system like under the floor in a spray booth. Releasing 2Pac to the atmosphere does more to kill the ozone layer than car exhaust fumes.

Also, you should avoid wiping down your panel with a wet or damp rag. Filler will absorb the moisture, which will soak to the bottom of the fill. That's why you see cracking paint on cars in areas that have obviously been filled. The correct procedure is to use Wax & Grease Remover - it dries quickly in the air. Wipe off with one clean rag with a bit of W&GR, then wipe off with a dry clean cloth. Old singlets are good for this - some T shirt material leaves lint.

One last thing. Don't sand filler with a wet sandpaper. Same reason as above.

Anyone who wants to learn how to do this correctly, call VG Auto Paints in Girraween or go to their website and sign up for the FREE (yes, free) Saturday morning courses which are very hands-on. I buy my supplies from there but I'm not affiliated with them in any way. They also have giveaways and a free BBQ afterwards. You can't go wrong.

Peter

+1 for VG.

Good post Peter

thanks mate for the info! I failed to mention a couple of things. Precautions should be taken when spraying any paint. I of course used full protection when spraying the 2pak paint in the shed, done it with the help of a proffessional and he gave me the whole speech on how lethal paint is. I will try to be more descriptive and informative on future posts. Thanks again Peter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Red_EG4

did you have a regulator on the air line?

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yeah mate, i used a regulator :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tiksie

When you do it on plastic, remember that you need a different type of filler, they have plastic fillers aswell.

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cheers for that bro

hmmm.... what type of paint did you use?
is it just the ones that you can buy from super cheap? does it turn out that glossy? because i want to paint the interior of my car with a glossy black.

i cant remember. you shouldnt be using that paint for interior though. use a plastics primer and maybe a vht interior paint

also... do i need to prime it if it's a smooth surface? can i just sand it down smoothly and paint over it?

primer will give you the smoothest possible surface for spraying. If you think its very smooth give it a light sand and just spray it. Remember the better you prepare and the more effort you put in the better it will turn out. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by v-tec bro

also... do i need to prime it if it's a smooth surface? can i just sand it down smoothly and paint over it?

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What exactly are you painting bro?

You've got an extremely nice car, make sure whatever it is you're painting is replaceable/repaireable etc in case you stuff up (if it's a big interior piece eg. trims or dash etc) :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vvvtec

What exactly are you painting bro?

You've got an extremely nice car, make sure whatever it is you're painting is replaceable/repaireable etc in case you stuff up (if it's a big interior piece eg. trims or dash etc) :)

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i want to pant the plastics surrounding the cd player. what type of paint should i use for that? i want a super glossy finish to it...almost as glossy as the outside.... any suggestions?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by v-tec bro

i want to pant the plastics surrounding the cd player. what type of paint should i use for that? i want a super glossy finish to it...almost as glossy as the outside.... any suggestions?

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You can get plastic paints which would probably good for that.

and a clear coat will make it nice n shiny.

oem looks best imo, keep it neat! :D

yeah.... do you guys know what brand is the best and what step i should take?

I think VHT will be fine for what you want to do. just give the surface a nice clean. make sure theres no dirt or anything on your piece. give it a 2-3 coats of primer and a couple coats of paint...done. if you want it to last use primer. if your not fussed you could just give it a spray over, will look fine but probably wont last as long and will peel after a while

ok... kool... thanks heaps.. i will get to that as soon as my uni is complete.

Nice write up, and thank for the more descriptive, in depth post afterward. Very helpful! :)

Question, what do you think would be my best option to fix the clear flaking on my roof?

I would love to do this but I don't want to play with paint.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blazorn

Nice write up, and thank for the more descriptive, in depth post afterward. Very helpful! :)

Question, what do you think would be my best option to fix the clear flaking on my roof?

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You could lightly wet sand it and re-spray some clear over it however this is only a short term solution. In order to properly fix this you will need to sand back all the damaged material, prime then prep and finish.

Something you should only do if you are competent

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blazorn

Nice write up, and thank for the more descriptive, in depth post afterward. Very helpful! :)

Question, what do you think would be my best option to fix the clear flaking on my roof?

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You'll need to feather out were the clear is flaking till it's smooth, better to use 1200 wet to dry, with alot of water and using a big block, then wash it down with water, then wax n grease it with a clean rag, wipe all of the wax and grease off so it foes it leave residue, then clear...

Ps, you have to be careful when you block, cos you can rub through the paint

I want to do this for my rear bumper but it's made out of fiberglass

http://www.ehow.com/how_4493914_paint-fiberglass.html

http://liambean.hubpages.com/hub/How...int-Fiberglass

:D :D :D :D