http://www.redpepperracing.com/galle.../image+014.JPG
Whats the brown plug ??!?!
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http://www.redpepperracing.com/galle.../image+014.JPG
Whats the brown plug ??!?!
Looks like temp. not sure wether its oil or water.
Its a thermo fan switch. Used to turn on the radiator fan when reaches a certain temp.
whats that bottom bracket for?
pulley relocator to clear the bonnet on kswaps
fatboyz is spot on. Thats a good looking location for it.
Okay guys im having trouble/dramas trying to take the last bolt off the headers.
There is 3 bolts which are located at the bottom and are evenly spaced out driver side, middle and passenger side and 2x nuts at the top evenly spaced out holding the headers onto the motor.
I am unable to take the bottom left driver side off.
Do i go in from the top or bottom to remove the bolt. :confused:
Depending how much room there is. Usually go from the top with 14mm socket on a small extension either on breaker bar or ratchet. Make sure the socket is on the bolt nicely before applying force.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
Very important to use a SINGLE faceted socket piece or spanner for maximum leverage on the bolt or nut. That is , a 6 sided socket piece or spanner etc.
DONT use those multi-faceted ( 12 sided / easy grip ) ones. They will slip easily , round nut and bolt heads and also require more torque to loosen/tighten the same distance in leverage.
That's the bitch bolt. Even when I apply antisieze to that bolt, it is still difficult to remove the second time. You need a 6 point socket like Ben said (or a good 12-point but you WILL round the bolt out a bit), and a short breaker bar. In my case, there was not much room for a ratchet, so I used a $11 supercheap auto breaker bar which was short with a small head (small and cheap because they tried to save on the amount of metal used).Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoop_gee
i think u might be onto something... thanks for the replies guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
yeah im using a 6point socket.
The bolt is located insides the headers if i access from the bottom.
But then from the top its really not much room between the brake booster.
@*#! EF/ED's :mad:
Okay not having much luck.
The breaker bar only came in a 1/2" size socket fitment. The head end on the breaker bar is that big that it doesnt provide enough room from the top.
And from the bottom while it does fit on the bolt the oil filter prevents it from travelling all the way across.
I might include a cash reward who is able to remove this.
Location: West Melb.
:cool::thumbsup:
Do yourself a favour & romove the Vtec solinoid for better access before you round off the head of the bolt.
(3 x 10mm in body of solinoid)
Now use a 1/2 drive deep socket (single hex) & 3ft 1/2 drive breaker bar.
If you still can't crack it you really need to start eating your "Wheatbix"
Wow talk about spoon feeding ahah...^^^
Any more detailed then that Adrian and you would have to charge him for it :P LOL
Good luck Snoop hopefully you get it undone man
Thanx guys for the continued help.
Okay so recently i bought a Ktuned cooling neck with filler.
http://www.k-tuned.com/store/images/prbfnbig.jpg
In the end it will and should look like this....
http://www.k-tuned.com/store/images/...kheonmotor.jpg
^Can u see the lil hole on the K-Tuned unit.
this is how the stock standard 1 look like.
http://www.redpepperracing.com/galle...s+Car+011a.jpg
But the Stock thing is way to big to fit into the K tuned piece.
http://www.redpepperracing.com/galle...s+Car+011b.jpg
Most likely for the water temp sensor for the dash.
Just have a few questions.
Q. Does the k26 setup consits of the mix and match of a k20/k24 stroked or is it just a stroked k24 long block?
Q. Can a wiring harness for k20 work on a k24?
1. K24 block with stroker crank and bored out
2. Yes
ok im getting a wiring loom made up.
now the question being asked is ..
Q.vss is on the rear of the trans, you dont need vtech pressure switch
(looking at my diagram)
Attachment 22400
do i dont i have a vtec pressure switch. And is it needed?
(N) vtec pressure switch is
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...3A_cr_rs55.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...09_cr_rs33.jpg
thats air assist valve, gets your a/f leaner on cold start for quicker warm up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoop_gee
it closes when ect reach 60 degrees or something
k24a3 dont use VTECH oil pressure switch, you can remove the wiring plug but id rather keep it in case im parting out and wanna sell the harness. this needs to be disabled as well in kpro or youll throw a code.
i dont evenQuote:
Q.vss is on the rear of the trans, you dont need vtech pressure switch
(looking at my diagram
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...ar11984_24.gif