How much PSI can i push out of a GT28 if twas High Flowed

I actually dont know much about high flowing. Feel pretty nub for not knowing lol. Anyways i wanna boost my civic to 20psi, the setups ready for it but i recently went from t04e (poo turbo) to my gt28rs which i love and i wanna see if i could keep it and push it to 20psi if it was high flowed. Otherwise ill splurge and get a gt30r or something. the gt28rs needs a service in a couple months anyways so i thought i would get it high flowed at the same time. Or i could get the rear exhaust wheel changed apparently to push the turbo that bit further. Anyone know what exhaust wheel i would need to get that type of Pressure?

well the gt28rs (disco potato) standard will not to be high flowed as sr20's can run easily 20psi on their motors. the thing you got to think of is can your motor handle 20psi?

Nah my motors fine...I've rebuilt it to handle upto 25psi but i would like to run it at 20psi to be safe.

Sr20's cant run 20psi on a stock motor? Black tops are rated at 18psi max and thats pushing it. I'm pushing my s15 to 15psi with a gt28rs also and i wouldnt push it further.

I've been told that most gt28's can only take upto 15psi? unless you get the larger exhaust housing like the 2871r's

my black top with stage 1 greddy cams

on 18psi made about 240

disco with a .64 housing

240kw?

yep.. want a dyno graph?

ahh yeh nah thats bout right i was jsut making sure you were talkin bout HP or KW...i got 320hp atw's which is about the same...

Anyways does anyone know how much i can push a gt28 or a gt28rs to? and how would i get it to run 20psi?

Votek were u running ur gt28rs with .64 housing at 18psi? was it fine? you think you could have taken it to 20psi being safe?

> yep.. want a dyno graph?

can you post it on the forum?
Knowing where a turbo spools is a very common question.

Nick.

Yeh if you got one that would be great?

I havent got a recent dyno sheet so i couldnt tell ya.

Hey what about t28bb turbo's are the much similar to my gt28 cos i got a mate who wants to do a similar thing.

curious, how does the gt28rs go on a high reving motor. I hit 1.4bar on the odd occasion. SR20 equiped with t28bb. It's fun but far from fast. The snail runs out of puff just before 6,000rpm. That's vtec for most of you. =/.

IMO, bigger turbo ftw.

can we get ur dyno sheet plz fastfwd. i got a s13 im driving atm. and it runs 20 psi on stock turbo... only thing is ecu lets it down u get a little lag then it comes good

i think u should give united fuel injection a call (there in WA) and ask them how much they will do it those guys do some of turbotechs work but there a bit cheaper and they just as good i know a few guys there.. price may sway what u wana do.

The GT28 is a great turbo and spools and makes good power, it will run 20psi but it will be out of its effeciency range and i would sugest a turbo change if you are going to be running 20psi as you will make more power in the long run.

try looking at something along the lines as a GT2871R it will have no problems running 20psi as its right in its effeciency range and one with a .86 rear will be little bit laggyer but the hondas high reving nature will more than make up for it.

as the for SR20 my mates running 21psi through his with a massive turbo kit making 386hp ona a stock motor and tomei metal head gasket.

i think the GT28RS is a high flowed GT28 from factory if i'm not wrong, not sure if your gonna get much more out of it. But i'm pretty sure the RS can run at 20PSI, just may need earlier rebuilding, due to the higher stress.

But then i always though that the amount of boost did not always equate to the same power, i.e a larger turbo will have less PSI than a smaller turbo making the same power.? correct me if i'm wrong.

I'm currently also looking at a bigger setup also and am going GT2871r with a .64 rear (trying not to get too laggy). I've only just got the manifold setup the way i want ( i still wanna retain a/c)


i've noted that on alot of high boost setups it comes down to the boost controller not being able to hold down the PSI. When running larger amounts of boost a good ebc is critical also to how the turbo will flow. if the boost controller is not up to it it sometimes feels like the turbo is maxing out and running out of puff. A friend of mine had this problem.

ANyway i'm still earning this stuff also so keep us informed how you go.

Hmmm i think i might just push it to 16 psi for now. I've recently just been sponsored by a new performance import company called 'Hiro motor sport' and they can sell me a garret gt30r for $1400 or a garret gt35/40 for $1500 both dual ball bearing. I think that's the wholesale price for what they get the turbo for and i get all parts wholesale as long as i Promote there new business and put a few large stickers on my car which i dont mind. So if i get a large turbo like that i may drop the comp just a little more with a bigger gasket. I already have low comp pistons but i may ill lower it a little more so i can run 25-26psi safely. I gotta chat with my unk first, hes the expert on what psi to comp to run with my build setup so ill see how it goes.

just wondering what compression you running now?

Stay away from the 71R. If u want to run 20psi, the RS is going to be pushing hot air. GT30R is way to go from here. But realise, 20psi on a GT30 flows alot more then a your RS at 20psi. Its not apples and apples.

Leave the 71R for high capacity twin turbo setups, like it was designed for.

I got told buy a guy today at turbotech that gt28's can take upto 28psi. He also said that it doesnt matter what size turbo you have most ball bearing turbos can take over 25psi.

I thought GT28's could only take upto 20psi Pushing it.

I thought that pushing a turbo harder than its operational capacity will cause to much hot air thus causing lower HP.

Maybe he just meant that physically the turbo can take 28psi. But its best performing operation is at 15psi etc.

you can probably push it to 20psi
but would the gains be worth it???

eg: 10 psi makes 150kw
15 psi makes 200kw 5 psi = 50kw gain
20 psi makes 220kw 5 psi = 20kw gain
so thats an extra 5 psi for only 20kw is it worth it as it will be out of the turbos effiency range. plus its putting stress on the turbo and will lower the life of the turbo too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Limbo

just wondering what compression you running now?

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My compression is 9.1

replacing the rings on my car atm and i pulled off the turbo last night and found it had a little bit of shaft play. Not alot but i like to be precautious so i dont have failure in the future. Thats why i sorta brought back this old post.

Its hard finding the right turbo i want now i guess. There are so many different variations of higher boost but lag, lower boost not as much HP but less lag. Some peoples views are different to others because its the way you drive and everyone has different driving styles. Some dont mine a little more lag for the greater HP and some will sacrifice some HP for a nicer more bottom/mid end drive.

I guess im just trying to find a nice way to get 300hp atw's and still have grunt in the lower to mid range so when your in 5th on the freeway you dont need to drop back gears to get in front of that person sitting 10-20ks less than the speed limit in the right lane. I hated my old t04e but that wasnt a ball bearing but still i hated lagg and never wanna go back to it. But when the power came on, in the t04e you would some how forget about the lagg in a flash cos the power was soo solid and strong that nothing else mattered.

Such a hard decision. There are so many talks about this in the forced induction section and the conclusion ive come to is its all about what type of power you want and when you want it.

I just wish i could figure out what i want

Ok guys this is the details i gathered of the turbo, so i finally know what turbo i have now and what i can push it to.

Compressor housing:
Garret A/R60 m24 1-2

Exhaust housing:
Garret 0.64

Badge:
DI 0334J
1441-G1f00
466541-4

The turbo is know as the GT2560R-4 (aka gt28r) which can take upto 330hp and has a max efficiency rating at around 14-16psi depending on the setup. It has a really quick spool and its nice but it just lacks alot in the top end.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...R_466541_4.htm

Should i spend $700 on a rebuild which effectively make my turbo brand new. Or do i sell it for say $500-700 second hand and spend an extra 600-700 and get myself a gt28rs or Gt2871r or even a gt30r?

The turbo now i think would have another 50,000k's on it before it needs a good rebuild. It has slight shaft play but nothing to bad.

What do you guys think? rebuild or upgrade?

Put in mind that my car has been tuned at 7psi with around 240hp at the wheels with this turbo over a year and a half ago, I've changed manifold, intercooler piping, Intercooler, fuel pump, Injectors since then. I've never really taken it past 7psi properly and i was going to the other day but i need new rings so im replacing the clutch, LSD, fixing some exhaust leekage and maybe replacing the turbo so i can push this thing to a max of 20psi or more. I've build the engine to run upto 25psi but safe 20psi but ive never even got close.

next jump up GT2871r or go straight to the GT3071r.
The GT3071 also comes with a T28 flange

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Limbo

next jump up GT2871r or go straight to the GT3071r.
The GT3071 also comes with a T28 flange

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I'm looking at either a GT3071r or the below. Atm im going for the gt2871r as its a cleaner daily drive. plus i dont think i wanna go for more than 400hp at the engine and the 2871r is suited for around that power.

Garrett GT2871R

Compressor:
Wheel Diameter: 71mm
Trim: 56
A/R: 0.60

Turbine:
Wheel Diameter: 53.85mm
Trim: 76
A/R: 0.64
Wastegate: (external if possible) if not i will weld the internal gate up.

its optional external or internal, but like you said you can weld the back housing

I'll find out this sat which one i have as i'll measure it this Sat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Limbo

its optional external or internal, but like you said you can weld the back housing

I'll find out this sat which one i have as i'll measure it this Sat.

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Yeh i will look for one without internal. I personally like having external gates, especially needed when running upto 20psi or more.

external gates are actually much better and less likely to fail. Also they hold boost alot better.

If you have a good EBC it shouldn't be a prob as much. I've had a theory of trying to run with the EBC and just plumb back to the turbo, not 100% sure if it will work

Yeh i started using external about 2 years ago. Never go back. i love my 44mm gate.

I only have a turbosmart boost bleeder on mine atm. Wastegate spring is 10psi and im dumbing down to 7psi. But i have a Electronic but its sitting on the shelf in my shed.

EBC is heaps better, it holds boost alot better and helps with spooling

Mines fairly shitty. Recommend any?

Profec b 2?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FastFwd

Mines fairly shitty. Recommend any?

Profec b 2?

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Both Limbo and I are using E-Boost 2 :thumbsup:

Isnt the E-boost 2 a little excessive for our applications? I dont mind the simple switch on the dash for 10psi/20psi dual boost setup. I dont have the need to go from 20 to 18 on the go. Once the boost controller is setup then two stages of boost is all i really need.

Like this - http://ee-enhanced.com/EBCv2.php

I like this gizzmo controller tho...

http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Product_MSIBC.html

Its not a Brand i've heard before but it seems to be fairly legit. I like it how its simple and black and one big led display.

decent ones hold boost better, the cheaper ones don't hold boost as well. Also it will be able to be used for other things like adjusting boost per gear and stuff.

tru tru...i might read up on this gizzmo controller. Its around $300 or so and seams to have all the functions needed. progressive boost control, 6 boost memorys, etc etc. Plus its plain and simple and clean. I used to have 5 gauges and a tacho on my dash all similar sizes to the eboost and the clutter annoys me + cops hated it. I ripped it all out and now ive only got my Power FC hand controller and Vafc. I have ordered 3 defi guages tho. I went with Boost/Oil Pres/Water Temp. Wanna put them just in front of my middle vents above the deck in a line. Nice and clean.

I will read some reviews on the gizzmo before purchasing. If its crap then i will look into the e-boost or even a AVCR.

do u need the vafc if u have PFC? ur hand controller should be able to show all the details u need.

Eboost2 is supose to be one of the best u can get

I have both. I probably should get rid of my VAFC.

The vafc is connected but its not controlling any maps. I had that before my Power FC and i just left it there as a guage. I just show boost pressure on it and temps.

The power fc is great to show readings but its a little annoying in sunlight etc, ive moved it in a couple placed but the dam eg dash doesnt work well with the sunlight and the power fc.

But thats why i ordered the gauges. So its the main things i need to see. I dont wanna be looking over at the gay ass contrast of the power FC hand controller all the time.

lol yeah i know, i just have mine hidden so i dun get harrassed by peeps.
The only gauges i have a oil temp, oil pressure, and eboost to show boost.

Do use ur oil temp much?

i wouldnt mind oil temp. Thought about it but decided water temp is more important.

I don't use any gauges but boost :p

i guess i've had heat issues in the past before i got my koyo radiator. Plus i've blown a motor cos the gay ass mechanic forgot to fil it with oil + setup the oil pressure sensor light.

So im a bit cautious now and need my vital readings.

i rely on the car's water temp. Oil temp is pretty good, especially when your creeping in traffic it tells you how hot the car is getting.

Usually the car's water temp doesn't move that much

yeh tru you dont....although i watch my water temp on my power FC and on a hot day and your bumper to bumper, stop start stop start mine does sometimes jump up as much as 10 degrees