Few questions & launching on semis advice ?

Hey guys

Haveing trouble getting my handbreak to hold the car on the line while doing my burnout. Some have said that the faster your wheels are spinning the less your car will want to pull forward. As i can only rev to 6500, its been suggested to do the burnout in 2nd gear? however im am usure on this and worried about damage to my drive-train.

Is it necessary to drop your tyre pressure on semi slicks. I am running Advan A048 with traction bars. Could semis work against your times if you cannot launch hard enough on them. As last time i had them on 20psi, attempted a 6k launch and snaped a CV. But i fear if you cannot lauch on them hard enough that bogging down could be easy, also adding more rolling resistance then a normal street tyre.

Advice anyone?

i always do burnouts in second

shit eh, i never done a burnout in second. never broken anything?

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Originally Posted by Sexc86

shit eh, i never done a burnout in second. never broken anything?

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nah i cooked my clutch last time but that was after 3 runs in under half hour

and i did a huge burnout from the water to about 30m past the start line

it was only to hot and started slipping but i can't expect better from a 12 yearold clutch

ahh ok. i might give it ago

Your biggest problem is that you are using a circuit semi-slick to go drag racing with. The hard sidewalls are terrible for drag racing... and they will never heat up with a quick burnout...

Get a drag radial/slick, it will be more kind to your driveshafts.

I have always had the same problem. I do third gear burnouts with my K20 Civic using BFgoodrich semi slicks. There is no real stress on the driveline if you are in the waterbox. I just drive into the water, pop it into third, pull the handbrake, rev to 5500rpm and dump the cluch and the car pulls the car out with the brake still on. It spins easily to redline and heats the tyres most efficiently. I have tried first and second gear burnouts and have found third gear works the best for our setup.

You can lower pressures below 20psi on a semi-slick as opposed to a real street tyre. It's just about testing and finding the correct pressure. I personally had Advan AO48 down to 9psi for drags without any issues.

If you woried about snapping drivelines, I would suggest you preload on your launches - I have not broken one driveline part using this technique.

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Originally Posted by ek4-guy

nah i cooked my clutch last time but that was after 3 runs in under half hour

and i did a huge burnout from the water to about 30m past the start line

it was only to hot and started slipping but i can't expect better from a 12 yearold clutch

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I saw somebody do that at Willowbank and they kicked him off,he didn't even get to run after waiting an hour :beer:

i have always done burnouts in 2nd gear as you get more out of it. if you keep it in the water you should be fine. but those tyres are ok but you would do better on drag radials.

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Originally Posted by beeza

I saw somebody do that at Willowbank and they kicked him off,he didn't even get to run after waiting an hour :beer:

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wtf if they tried to kick me off i'd tell em they'd better kick Victor Bray off next time

haha Who's that?!

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Originally Posted by ek4-guy

wtf if they tried to kick me off i'd tell em they'd better kick Victor Bray off next time

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Yeah but the point is Victor Bray's actions are actually justified.

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Originally Posted by RICER23Q

Yeah but the point is Victor Bray's actions are actually justified.

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he's burnout may be justified but they don't have to be as big as they are

he does bigger burnouts than he's competitors see fit to do

he doesn't do them because he needs to and if he doesn't he will get beat because he's competitors do smaller ones and still beat him

he does them so big because he is known for them

and how do think he became known for them it was because track marshalls wern't anal about it and let him be (you should know he's car wasn't always a top door slammer it started off in street trim)

My point is if you was a track marshall are you gona stand there and debate me on the start line


Edit: Also I don't do them so big because I feel I need to I do them so big because imo it's a chance to do a legal burnout not on the street endangering anyone else

They will still kick you off if you go 10 metres or so past the start line.

Yes, but an ek civic is hardly crowd pleasing and quite frankly... just lame

Victor Bray/any sub 8 second car doing one is crowd pleasing and if you don't like it, then you're gay.

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Originally Posted by RICER23Q

Yes, but an ek civic is hardly crowd pleasing and quite frankly... just lame

Victor Bray/any sub 8 second car doing one is crowd pleasing and if you don't like it, then you're gay.

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lol i hardly do them to please the local bogans

Also I have only done the one really big burnout and I did it out of curiosity I wanted to see what kind of burnout my car could do legally.

I guess I must just be lucky they didn't kick me off for going more than 10 past the start line

Definatly do a burnout in 2nd Lyle.....

The point of biggest load spike and stress on your driveline is the point before you break traction launching or dumping in to the next gear.

You will not brake anything in a burnout on the water and when you burnout off the water, the driveline is already pre-loaded.

Spikes in load will may/will damage driveline. Wheel hop also causes spikes. Its because your wheel is hopping you gain traction/loose traction. Each time you gain traction again, this causes a spike in load through the driveline.

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Originally Posted by GnJracing

If you woried about snapping drivelines, I would suggest you preload on your launches - I have not broken one driveline part using this technique.

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Can you explain how you do this? i've always been worried about this also

I've been doing burn outs in 2nd also its alot easier to spin the tyres

lyle.......i have used toyo r888 for drag racing, although not the best suited tyre for drag racing, it has served me well......

i always do second gear rev dump at bout 5500rpm and let the car pull itself out of the water with hand break on......

my launch is at around 4500-5000rpm as my vtec engagement is at 4500rpm, however my launch is not rev dump, its rev and slip/ride clutch off the line...........i also found that the best tyre pressure for me was 14psi.........

good luck next time u head out.............

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Originally Posted by Limbo

Can you explain how you do this? i've always been worried about this also

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1. Stage
2. Put car into gear
3. Pull handbrake up, but leave your finger on the button
4. Bring revs upto desired amount for the launch
5. Pull the clutch out to the friction point where it is just grabbing and the car wants to move forward, but not too forward for the car to move over the beams, thus pre-loading it.
6. When lights go green, pull down handbrake and go :p

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Originally Posted by RICER23Q

1. Stage
2. Put car into gear
3. Pull handbrake up, but leave your finger on the button
4. Bring revs upto desired amount for the launch
5. Pull the clutch out to the friction point where it is just grabbing and the car wants to move forward, but not too forward for the car to move over the beams, thus pre-loading it.
6. When lights go green, pull down handbrake and go :p

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Thanks for that mate. ill deffinately give that a go in the next few weeks !

the above technique is good...but u dont want to be pre loading for too long.............as riding the clutch can cause it to slip once engaged.............maybe use this technique once the other car has staged up and is ready so ur not pre loading for too long

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Originally Posted by IEVAQ8

the above technique is good...but u dont want to be pre loading for too long.............as riding the clutch can cause it to slip once engaged.............maybe use this technique once the other car has staged up and is ready so ur not pre loading for too long

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Thats why the first step is to stage ;)

^^^ i was only helping out in saying to make sure the other car is staged and ready........

Well thats a no brainer really...

^^^ u never no sometimes.............

im not saying ur a no brainer LYLE, im referrign to others who may read this and not realise...............

thanks heaps i'll give it a go. Never knew about this one.:thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by RICER23Q

1. Stage
2. Put car into gear
3. Pull handbrake up, but leave your finger on the button
4. Bring revs upto desired amount for the launch
5. Pull the clutch out to the friction point where it is just grabbing and the car wants to move forward, but not too forward for the car to move over the beams, thus pre-loading it.
6. When lights go green, pull down handbrake and go :p

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pre loading ftw!

preloading is the best way to ruin you clutch :thumbsup: , so if you're ready to spend $$ on numerous clutch kits go ahead, yes the preloading method seems to work well because you dont lose traction as much and you get a nice 'zippy' start.

But for the best way to achieve good times and not have your clutch sh it itself within a few runs is finding the perfect line between maximum rpm and traction when you dump the clutch. It is very difficult to get traction this way on street tyres, but the most effective and least damaging to your clutch. If you run stickies you will have no problem with this and will get the best 60 ft, Especially if you are using launch control.

preloading = fail is the main point

preloading ftw

And is dumping the clutch helps the life of a clutch?

Either way both methods will work within moderation, excess of either will cause future problems as I see it, I was simply taking advice from someone whos had alot of experiance on the strip

Each to their own.
Its all depends on what will work for you and your car set up.

this is how i see it..

If your on street tyres... pre-loading is a good technique. You'll want to pre-load around 3000-4000rpm depending on how much power you have. Pre-loading will reduce axle tramps and lower those 60ft. Try it next time it might help

If your on slicks, you'll need to dump the clutch

Yeah I agree to that theory

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Originally Posted by EG5

Each to their own.
Its all depends on what will work for you and your car set up.

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I like that :thumbsup:

I preload. If you do it correctly you're only ridding the clutch at friction point for less then a second.

You'll probably do more damage to your clutch from a hill start during street driving.

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Originally Posted by markoJEK1

preloading is the best way to ruin you clutch :thumbsup: , so if you're ready to spend $$ on numerous clutch kits go ahead, yes the preloading method seems to work well because you dont lose traction as much and you get a nice 'zippy' start.

But for the best way to achieve good times and not have your clutch sh it itself within a few runs is finding the perfect line between maximum rpm and traction when you dump the clutch. It is very difficult to get traction this way on street tyres, but the most effective and least damaging to your clutch. If you run stickies you will have no problem with this and will get the best 60 ft, Especially if you are using launch control.

preloading = fail is the main point

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Just stop buying shit clutches... winrar!

no point buying an high HP clutch when a stock NA wont put out anything close to that, exedy heavy duty holds up very well on most NA cars, yonas even runs it in his 11 sec monster, good 1000hp clutch or 300hp clutch, either will get stuffed if you ride it / use it wrong

I havn't read the whole thread but the way I launch is by preloading like some of you.

I found that it's really effective on street tyres.
Also I have a ceramic clutch waiting to go in my car, they dont get as hot as the organics meaning they wont slip as quickly iirc.

I've been on the same clutch for 2 years and have done over 50+ passes with it without any issues and 99% of the time this has included a pre-loaded launch and a 5,000rpm clutch dump to do a skid in the waterbox.

I guess it all depends on how you drive it and the quality of your clutch.