Running like a dogg can anyone help?

Hey guys,

Yesterday arvo coming back from the beach i stalled the car. Lol i wasnt paying attention ok so no giving me crap for it. But anyways since then it feels like its not getting correct spark or something. When hitting 4000rpm upward it feels like someones putting on the handbrake and holding the car back. Im getting correct boost and fuel pressure but its just not holding power.

I was fiddling around with my ignition leads yesterday morning. I pulled them off and gave them a good clean and one of the leads continued to fall off mid drive once a month or so. So i cleaned up the clamp on the lead that connects to the dizzy and it seems to have fixed that problem but i dont know know if its related to my current issue or if its something i have done to the lead because i was driving all day and it seemed to be fine until i stalled in the arvo.

i adjusted the lead again and gave the car a quick run this morning and up my street it ran fine but then as soon as i pulled onto the next street it started having the same problem again, dunno if it was because it warmed up or something.

Im currently running Iridium plugs that have 10,000km's on them and are due for a change, and im using Top gun 10.1mm ignition leads which are 3-4 years old and have been plugged and unplugged many of times.

Im going to change my plugs to some cheep new ngk testers i have to see if its them. I dont have my stock ignition leads anymore so i might have to purchase a new set to see if its them.

Anyone have any other suggestions on what it could be?

If boost is normal, you can rule out a boost leak.
Is the car idling & revving normally?
Are there any inconsistencies with the tacho?
Check the resistance of each of the leads with multi meter.
Remove the dissy cap & check the cap & rotor button also.
Check the cat converter, it may be blocked.
Also do a compression test to be sure the engine is ok.
Failing that, go to your local dyno & run it up & check it.
This will tell you if there is a fuel or ignition problem.
It may be something dumb like a blocked fuel filter.
Hope that helps.

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

If boost is normal, you can rule out a boost leak.
Is the car idling & revving normally?
Are there any inconsistencies with the tacho?
Check the resistance of each of the leads with multi meter.
Remove the dissy cap & check the cap & rotor button also.
Check the cat converter, it may be blocked.
Also do a compression test to be sure the engine is ok.
Failing that, go to your local dyno & run it up & check it.
This will tell you if there is a fuel or ignition problem.
It may be something dumb like a blocked fuel filter.
Hope that helps.

Cheers

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Yeh deff not a boost leek, well the same day i cleaned out my Temp idle reader. Forgot what the name is but i cleaned it out because i was getting a ruff idle on start. I've had this issue before and easily fixed it, i did the same this time and i dont know if that is the cause of this problem but the idle seams fine now.

Can rule out cat converter cos i have a straight 3 inch welded through it..SHHHH. I could check the fuel filter, and maybe check the fuel pressure cos i got a aftermarket one. I'll check that tomorrow arvo and update with that on here.

Comp test is fine, i recently had a Dizzy rotor issue which i replaced last week i also dont know if this is the cause of this new problem or not but it could be related.

Sorry also how do i check the resistance with a multimeter? do i actually start the car and put - ground and + to the other side of the lead (plug side)? eeek ive hurt myself doing that before lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by claymore

You getting any MILs (cel) sounds like you are going into limp home mode. Or your dizzy is still messed up after your last trouble with the rotor exploding.

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Nah i've been in limp before, i dont think this is it. I maybe an issue with the dizzy again. Dunno tho i have a feeling it maybe the lead that i was messing with. I could have borked it when trying to adjust it.

Ok guys this is what i have tested.

1. Ignition lead Ohms
2. Fuel Pressure (on Idle)
3. Cylinder Compression
4. Checked the plugs (picture to show)
5. Checked the bent ignition lead.

1. I'm not to sure how to read the Omhs on this but its sitting just above 60 on the top read on my old school trusty meter on all 4 leads all the same.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/DSC06838.jpg

2. Fuel pressure (on idle) on my gauge was showing roughly 52psi

3. Cylinder compression was exactly the same as i checked it 2 weeks ago so that cant be it.

4. Check the plugs to the leads and heres a picture. Adjusting This and fixing the TPS was the last thing i had touched on my car before it started having this problem
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/DSC06852.jpghttp://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/DSC06851.jpg

5. My spark plugs are due for replacement and are NGK Iridium BKR5EIX-11. They have like a layer on most of the plug. I don't know if its normally like that but it was hard to take this picture to show.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...c/DSC06849.jpg

More info.

Im Running Top Gun 8.8mm Ignition Leads which are 3-4 years old.

I do know in the past i have had an issue where My iridiums crapped themselves after 1 week when i put in octain booster because apparently they dont like that. But i havent done this, But it had half a tank of 9 month old fuel in it which i ran through fine but just after i filled up i started having the issue about a day later.

B16A Turbo with BKR5EIX-11... You're asking for trouble there...
That's 1 heat range hotter than stock giving you a good source of detonation.

Re TPS, What did you do?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TODA AU

B16A Turbo with BKR5EIX-11... You're asking for trouble there...
That's 1 heat range hotter than stock giving you a good source of detonation.

Re TPS, What did you do?

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What model Iridium should i be getting? I got what NGK recommends for the b16a2.

I think its called the TPS...its the module under the throttle body that controls the idle via the water temp (picture below).

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...DSC02892-1.jpg

I've had issues before where the cylinder inside has un-threaded itself causing it to idle high. I've fixed it in the past with help of some guys on here. I did the same thing as i did last time and the idle returned to normal. I could probably take it off again and put some new Intake gasket goo on to make sure its a perfect seal.

Bump!....

anyone know what iridium plugs i should be running in my built b16a2 turbo.

you should be using copper plugs for a turbo setup. Non of that iridium stuff. Its meant for longevity. (as far as i know anyway)

Also, your not measureing your leads correctly.

Im having similiar troubles to you. (intermittent rough idle and hesitation on acceleration)

First thing i did was measure the leads and these are the results i got (from shortest to longest - I currenty have stock leads, probably the same age as the car)

1) 7k OHMS
2) 13k OHMS <-- this cable is ****ed. it should be about 8.5 ish.
3) 10K OHMS
4) 12K OHMS

The resistance should be greater as the lead gets longer.

I'm getting new leads (top gun 8.8s) and it should fix my problem. I also checked the cap, posts and button and it all looks good. I did clean the posts a bit with some sand paper so maybe that will help you as well.

use plugs BKR7EIX-11 (iridium) or even BKR7E-11 (std)

that is one step colder then stock.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JasonGilholme

you should be using copper plugs for a turbo setup. Non of that iridium stuff. Its meant for longevity. (as far as i know anyway)

Also, your not measureing your leads correctly.

Im having similiar troubles to you. (intermittent rough idle and hesitation on acceleration)

First thing i did was measure the leads and these are the results i got (from shortest to longest - I currenty have stock leads, probably the same age as the car)

1) 7k OHMS
2) 13k OHMS <-- this cable is ****ed. it should be about 8.5 ish.
3) 10K OHMS
4) 12K OHMS

The resistance should be greater as the lead gets longer.

I'm getting new leads (top gun 8.8s) and it should fix my problem. I also checked the cap, posts and button and it all looks good. I did clean the posts a bit with some sand paper so maybe that will help you as well.

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How am i supposed to measure my leads? i set it to the Ohm reader on my meter and i got the same read on all 4 leads. my leads are the top gun 8.8's they should still be fine. Do you think ill need to get another Meter that has a correct reading? The one im using is fairly old and ive only used it for Volts in the past.

So you dont think i should get Iridiums? what model plugs should i get then?

Hey man how u doing, U want me to come round after work n try help u find the issue?
I can bring around a few spare parts again.
Let me know

Thanks
Jason

nah just ghet your regular ngk plugs and change them every 10 - 15k.

sounds like you're meadsuring them right but you should be getting different readings per cable.

more resistance as the cable gets longer

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JasonGilholme

nah just ghet your regular ngk plugs and change them every 10 - 15k.

sounds like you're measuring them right but you should be getting different readings per cable.

more resistance as the cable gets longer

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Why do you think go with regular ngk's and not iridium's? im prepared to pay more for better quality or is it just not worth it?

Also can someone tell me what plug there running in there b16 turbo's?

I've read lots of info and people say just use standard copper plugs on turbo setups. The extra heat destroys them quicker, or something along those lines.

The quality is the same. NGK make good gear, but IMO your application doesn't need iridium. Even a high end NA car would probably be better off running copper plugs over iridium.

You should go one heat range colder then standard plugs. I think you're one heat range higher then stock at the moment.

I'll go purchase some BKR7EIX-11 (iridium) or the BKR7E-11 (std) like BluEG said

BKR6's are standard. I think BKR7's are what you want though.