Hi all, I was wondering what kind of oil do you use in your honda?
I have a 95 Accord Vti, which was using valvoline oil. It's fine and never had problems, but just wanna know if Caltex is any better?
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Hi all, I was wondering what kind of oil do you use in your honda?
I have a 95 Accord Vti, which was using valvoline oil. It's fine and never had problems, but just wanna know if Caltex is any better?
i use genuine honda, but royal purple is real good
yeah FEO oil is the way to go if you just want something cheap otherwise you can get stuff like Motul and Royal Purple but its more then double the price
i was first using the honda FEO oil but i currently have Motul 8100 X-CESS SAE 5W-40 in there. so far so good.
95 Accord should take 10w-40 oil. So if you want a cheap oil, Mobil Synth S 10w-40 for $32. If your budget is a bit higher, look at Motul 8100 5w-40 for $70.
I am using Valvoline 20-50W is that ok or should I get a 10-40W and if so should I "flush" with something first?Quote:
Originally Posted by interfooler
its always good to flush it if your bothered but people usually dont bother.Quote:
Originally Posted by repeated_love
i personally would, to get more of the crap inside out...
Quote:
Originally Posted by DvS-
personally dont recommend using a flush of any kind. It can displace carbon or gunk and lodge it elsewhere that maybe detrimental to your engine. Just change the oil every 5,000ks and filter every 5-10,000ks , that should keep any sludge buildup clear of your engine.
PS i recommend honda FEO for all honda engines.
how much is the honda oil?
and what numbers is it?
about $26-32 depending on dealer. its 10w-30w rated.
flush FTW! especially on older cars.
as above i dont agree. Engine oil flushes are something that most European car service departments use to add that extra money ontop of every service bill. They are not required on any engine - and can deem dangerous on older engines so not ftw lol. A consistent oil change will keep crud and sludge out of your engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Type R Positive
x2 those flushes do more bad then good for your motor
Why flush when you can change engine oil at regular 6 month intervals?
So they do it for a gimmick.... yeah right.Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
To get rid of build up.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
$26?? WHERE? I want some @ that price!Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
Rockdale Honda is like $38 -_-".. like WTF!!
Engine oil has cleaners inside which get rid of the gunk and crap. Just change the oil regularly and you should be fine..Quote:
Originally Posted by Type R Positive
Also remember that black oil doesnt always mean DIRTY. You can get an oil analysis to see long oil will really last in your car [all cars are different..] Sometimes, the oil may last 15K km's.. while the same oil in another car may only last around 5K km's till the cleaning + lubricating properties of the oil start deteriorating
I cbf.. so i just change the oil every 5K.. its cheap to do .. and doesn't take long
You would like to believe so.... but oil leaves deposits behind.Quote:
Originally Posted by MZ3
It's an old car, it will have gunk.
Here's an old noob thread on flush:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106296
I use 15W/40 diesel oil. Diesel oils have higher detergent and dispersent levels (than petrol oils), which to some degree will tend to clean the crankcase and piston rings etc, but less harshly than a bottle of chemical flush.
Diesel oils are also typically very high quality oils, with very high film strength, lubricity, high flash points etc. High flash point means they don't burn easily, which means they tend to leave less burnt deposits on piston rings and in ring lands, or in the combustion chamber.
I wouldn't use any sort of flush, (or high detergent oil for that matter) in significantly sludged engines, but even older Honda engines with a good oil change history (typically) seem to be fairly clean. If the engine is dirty, I'd want that dirt to remian stuck to where it's already stuck, not liberated into the oil. IMO, if the engine is dirty enough to need cleaning, it's likely to be too dangerous to clean it...
if your not far from Canley Vale, you can try:Quote:
Originally Posted by MZ3
Mekong Spare Parts Pty Ltd
(02) 9726 9903
42 Canley Vale Rd
Canley Vale NSW 2166
they have honda engine oil, rad coolant, brake fluid etc at a good/reasonable price..
not a gimmick its a valid part of servicing. That is , to make money off something that isnt required. Its nt needed , and as stated can be damaging to older or worn engines.Quote:
Originally Posted by Type R Positive
Same point i made earlier.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnL
Think of when a human or any animal has a stroke. Its when a deposit is displaced and blocks another place somewhere else. This = major problem or death.Its correct with an engine too. If an engine is mistreated over time it will have buildups , which will cause issue if displaced via a strong cleaner of sorts.
No need for engine flush ever.
Just keep consistent on servicing and your engine will never develop any 'sludge".
Guys stick back to topic please. This thread is about engine oil for Honda vehicles.
Is Castrol Magnetic any good?
Just search and you'll find all the answers. Search using "engine oil*". It needs the asterisk to work because there is a 4 letter limit.Quote:
Originally Posted by interfooler
I've said this in 3 other threads, and I'll say it here again, magnatec became rough at the 7000km mark in my car, which was driven normally back then.
Some engines sludge up no matter how often the oil is changed, e.g. Toyota engines (among others) are notorious for it. Honda engines aren't, at least they seem not to be and I've never heard of it being a chronic problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
seen a good few older bmw engines with this issue too.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnL
whoops back on topic use honda FEO and chane it with new stuff every 5000ks
sorta off topic but i've found magnatec 10w40 burns a little more than my current oil, motul semi-syn 10w40
with magnatec i had to top up around 550ml per 1000km...with the motul so far i'm burning less at just under 400ml/1000km
Honda FEO 10W/30. By honda for honda ;)
More like By Caltex for Honda.Quote:
Originally Posted by cVc_eK4
I got into an argument over engine oil.
I wanted to buy the Magantec 10-40 for my 94 Accord Exi but was told as it has done over 100k I should get 20-50. I ended up getting Valvoline 20-50 but could I have still gone with 10-40?
If you have always used 10w-40 without issues like oil burning, then there's no reason to go to 20w-50. Having said that, 20w-50 is fine for summer but I would prefer a 15w-50 for winter instead (Shell Helix plus)Quote:
Originally Posted by repeated_love
From my experience, it really depends on the health of the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by repeated_love
10 years ago I owned a DA1 integra. I got it with 210,000kms, and had to run minimum 25W++ oil to avoid it burning oil up like crazy. The engine was already loosing some compression when I bought it, as discovered during a pre purchase test. The piston rings were worn.
Now I own a DC2 Integra. 185,000kms now, last compression test came back entirely good and within factory specs. I use Valvoline 10-40w Synguard in it and it runs very smooth.
The previous owner's last service was with a regular Ultratune shop, done only 2 months before I took over the DC2. Whatever oil they put in the engine was crap, because it made the engine rev all rough and lumpy. Noisy too. Maybe the shop thought engines above 100,000km must use 20w and up oils or something.
I swapped the oil out with 10-40w Synguard a week after I bought the DC2, and the difference in smoothness was dramatic. Besides, the DC2 was specced to run with 10-40w oil in our weather conditions from the factory.
Moral of the story? Don't let mileage determine what oil to use. Let the health of the engine do it. If the engine's compression checks out fine, stick with the original factory specs in oil weightage.
Well now that I have changed the ATF, put new oil and sparkies etc things sound and feel smoother.
Currently I am using 20-50 is a compression test able to be done DIY or do you have to take it in to a mech? How much?
So by "burning up" your saying the poorer health engine used up the oil quickly and had to be changed more regularly.
flushing your motor is the biggest gimmik in engine oil
Only a radiator would need to be flushed hey?
Yes. The engine in my old DA1 Integra was not well cared for by the previous owners. I had two choices: rebuild the engine, or run thicker engine oil to limit the piston blow by (i.e. essentially means that the piston rings weren't sealing well in the cylinder anymore).Quote:
Originally Posted by repeated_love
Try 10w-40. If you find that you burn up oil quickly (check weekly), then go back to 20w-50.Quote:
Originally Posted by repeated_love
That's the thing how will I determine engine oil is burning up quickly if I don't know what the normal rate is?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Being a noob I rarely check my engine oil but if I was to begin checking it weekly how would I know 10w-40 is burning up quickly as I don't know the usual rate that oil burns up.