Printable View
well how to explain.. when im driving or just cruising eg highway. whe ever i use about 5 - 10% of throttle the car seems to de accellerate and when i slowly push the accellerate the car has nothin nothing nothing then all of a sudden it just jumps but its only doing it every now and then..
could this be a tps problem? its almost like there id nothing from 0% - 10%throttle but then some times its nice and smooth..
any suggetsions..
oh yes its an ek1 with a stock B18c7
you can start with checking that all the hoses going in and out of the IM is connected properly and that all the lines are not leaking. i've seen a car that had one of its hoses disconnected and it would have no low end power (sluggish from idle to probs 2500? then it'd be normal) and found that it was a disconnected hose. reconnected that hose and all was fine.
what ecu are you running?
any funny noises?
it could be a tps problem but doubt that..anyways, for the sake of troubleshooting..check your wiring between the tps and the ecu and check that ur tps is still working using a voltmeter. there is a diy guide on how to test your tps.
Sounds like it could well be the TPS.I would Collaberate the Voltage on the TPS,then go from there.
Is the TPS riveted on or screwed on? If it's riveted,you will have to angle grind them off then use screws to put it back on.That's why it's better to have a spare Throttle body so you can get the right screws before you take it off.If you take it to someone they can do it for you.Take the TB off,grind the rivets off,replace with screws and another TPS then you will need to collabrate the voltage on the TPS,here's a DIY.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100843
I've been meaning to write it clearer but instead of using pieces of wire I taped needles onto the positive and negative probes on the voltmeter,then stuck them into the wires on the TPS.It's easy,I knew nothing about it,I just stumbled accross it on the net...
its a p73 ecu came with the convesion 2000 or 2001 B18c7 i think the tps has been replace b4 but the prob b4 was @ 1800 - 2000 the engine would just jump up n down like i was a learner driver bunny hopping all up the road.. now it just has nothing till i get over about 10% throttle..
i do have a p72 with s300 ready to go in to it, just need to save for a tune.. and find a tuner to do it too.. but thats another story..lol
all hoses are checked and fine..
You still should Callerbrate the Voltage on the TPS.
cool thanks for that wont be able to do it soon, i did reade a few post and i think i can get my head around it.. thanks for the help ill let you know how i go..but why im confused is why it only sometimes does it??
and mainly after i give it a good ful throttle through 1st 2nd and sometimes third...
Your throttle butterfly could be sticking every once in a while.
I know I know but when ya fix the problem it goes away so go figure...Quote:
Originally Posted by big tone
u have an s300?? use it... run a base map and go to the 'tps' tab and in the middle of the window you can see a min and max tps reading...
with the ignition on (engine not running) press read on the min tps and in the white box a number close to 0 will automatically fill. then depress the accelerator pedal to its maxim and press read on the max tps and in the corresponding white box a number cloe to 100 will automaticaly fill. then upload to your s300 and see if that fixes your problem.
can you tell me if this is a similar or even better the same problem? you hold the accelerator pedal aiming to hold the rpm @ 2000 but instead of the engine holding at 2000 it bounces up and down between your idle, say 900 and 2000 rpm continously until you release the accelerator pedal??Quote:
i think the tps has been replace b4 but the prob b4 was @ 1800 - 2000 the engine would just jump up n down like i was a learner driver bunny hopping all up the road
if you have that problem then i dare say its not your tps sensor, its the wiring between the tps and the ecu. my inference is that because the tps uses voltage to communicate to the ecu, a very minute source of voltage might i add, when you solder the wires you change or disrupt the voltage flow between the tps and the ecu resulting in an incorrect signal to the ecu.
however there is a fix, which is above using the s300 to "cover up" the flaw.
another way to tell if your ecu aint getting the right signal is if the min and max signals are very off. e.g. min is -5% and max is 90% obviously means your ecu aint receiving the correct signal..if it were it'd be min=1% and max=99% or so. but the beauty of the s300 is that the reason why you take those readings is to let the s300 know the correct mins and maxs and it adjusts accordingly to manage the engine properly.
also there is a guide to calibrating the tps and what not in the s300 manual.
I agree with Paul, check the basics first , I cant really understand your explination completely, but does sound like its sticky, either at the pedal or at the butterfly. That is if the pedal phyiscally is not doing anything while attempting to give 5%-10% throttle and then all of a sudden gets unstuck and the car gets a nice jerk. But if you have complete movement of pedal with minimal force and smooth pivoting throughout the whole motion then it might be something else, so start looking at the sensor operation.
check the simple things first and possibly save yourself some money and pointless headache
So for that you can use 'Carby cleaner',it comes in a can.
Spray it into the Throttle body while the car is running,give it a good dose to clean all the crap out of there.Rev the engine while you are doing this to force all the crap through the system,it may cough and splatter a bit,that's perfectly normal.
Be careful which throttle bodies you do this on.Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
On newer vehicles the throttle bodies have a coating on them and spraying them with carby cleaner will damage this coating.
is there resistance to the throttle at all? IE not smooth ?
check the throttle cable that its not catching anywhere.Grab some carby cleaner , clean out the throttle body and around the butterfly too.
Cheers Paul,I had never heard of that.
And offcoarse,adjust the throttle cable.
No probs. I'm pretty sure it's some form of teflon coating (similar to that on frying pans). It obviously helps stop gunk from sticking to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
With newer TB's its better to just wipe them clean.
Yep thats right, newer TB sensors are very very sensitive and prone to failure if you spray carby or any other 'safe' product down the TB, be ready to pay for new one possibly.
ive checked pedal, butterfly and cable and all are smooth... i am starting to narrow down to tps.. but that will have to waite for a week or two.. the s300 is not in as yet due to not tuned at all and running badly so the p73 is back in for now... but will be getting retuned hopfully start of next month.. i had a look at the s manager program and EGHT i conpletly understant what your saying so it will be on the cards with the tune.. just need to find someone to tune it either near hervey bay or if so drive to brissy.....
ive have been told the progrmaing comes with all the base maps so tuning souldnt take much more than 2 - 3 hours tops, would this be accurate to say??
dude use the s300....ur basically using a stock b18CR ecu via the stock base maps that come smanager but ur able to adjust the tps so the ecu can recognise the signal better.Quote:
Originally Posted by big tone
heres all the available base maps:
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/2196/58451033.jpg
thats what you need to calibrate. the tps parameters in the scale tps box.
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/7025/64470497.jpg
sounds like ur car is stock so you dont need a tune to run s300. just calibrate the stock base map. i mean u can get a tune and save fuel and u'd have a better air fuel ratio but u dont need a tune to fix the problem ur having.
even better, record a datalogging and post it here, on honda tech or the hondata forums for opinion. its definently an electrical fault.
ok cool, thanks for that.. i have run the s300 b4 and used the stock -itr base map but the car ran like a bit of a pig and the fuel, well it smelt like someone poored fuel into my lap,
im still umformilular with the afr setings to play with it myself so id leave to someone who knows what they're doing.. as for stock its only had the very basics i/h/e and i know that shouldnt make much diff to the way its running.
something happened like that on the work ute, change sparks and spark leads, it was missing
nah theres spark with mine.. the other thing i noticed was the tacho was fluctuating rapidly when it had no throttle..
decelerateQuote:
Originally Posted by big tone