need help with slicks and size for my boosted dc2r...

hey guys as title states...........

if anyone can help me out..................

i want to take my boosted dc2r back to the track and try and get its best time...........

the car is....
aussie dc2r................
stock dc2r aussie lsd gear box (4.4 final drive),
makes 240kw at the wheels,
red line is 8400rpm
max power is at 8000rpm..


last time i raced on toyo r888 semi slicks (205/50/15) and was crossing the line on the limiter in 4th gear....

im looking for some full slicks (M/T's)......cheers

p.s. i will be using stock aussie dc2r wheels (15 x 6)

4.4 final drive on a stock dc2r gearbox ? Dont they come with 4.7?

Should try 24.5x8x15

The stock aussie dc2r gearboxes have the 4.785 final drive. To experiment with tyre sizes and speed in gears etc use this calculator and just see what trap speeds you get up to and pick your slick sizes accordingly.

have fun!

http://www.teammfactory.com/gearcalculator.php

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Originally Posted by EG5

4.4 final drive on a stock dc2r gearbox ? Dont they come with 4.7?

Should try 24.5x8x15

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thanks, im not sure of final drive i thought aussie dc2r had 4.4..... i dont think i can afford to buy slicks just to try and maybe be wrong........lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by delsol9000rpms

The stock aussie dc2r gearboxes have the 4.785 final drive. To experiment with tyre sizes and speed in gears etc use this calculator and just see what trap speeds you get up to and pick your slick sizes accordingly.

have fun!

http://www.teammfactory.com/gearcalculator.php

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thanks, i'll give it a go

umm i was under the impression that the vti-r came with the 4.4 final and the audm itr cam with a 4.7 final.
Give the slicks a go man... 8400rpm launches ftw... until you blow a gearbox or twist a driveshaft :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joe.teg

umm i was under the impression that the vti-r came with the 4.4 final and the audm itr cam with a 4.7 final.
Give the slicks a go man... 8400rpm launches ftw... until you blow a gearbox or twist a driveshaft :D

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i got some more info................. dc2r aussie 4.7 final drive.............

maybe 6000rpm launches with launch control via hondata s300...............i got built drive shafts to suit my power and application................they better not break..................and box is all perfect with fresh bearings throughout.......... ;)

mate... then your set... up the boost, install the slicks and your just a passenger hhaha... what boost are you running atm and what is your latest track time?

I just had a crazy idea while i was in the shower... EG HATCH + K20A + HKS GTRS + 15PSI = UNBEATABLE... this is my next car which i will be doing myself :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IEVAQ8

i got some more info................. dc2r aussie 4.7 final drive.............

maybe 6000rpm launches with launch control via hondata s300...............i got built drive shafts to suit my power and application................they better not break..................and box is all perfect with fresh bearings throughout.......... ;)

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The key not to break the axles / cv : Dont bog off the line , its better to spin and grab traction compared to 100% traction off the line.

More traction = more chance to break the Axles / CV.

I dump the clutch at 7000 rpm on slicks , Over 50 passes now on EGK24A , never break any axles.

Yonas knows his stuff..

The key is not to bog!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joe.teg

mate... then your set... up the boost, install the slicks and your just a passenger hhaha... what boost are you running atm and what is your latest track time?

I just had a crazy idea while i was in the shower... EG HATCH + K20A + HKS GTRS + 15PSI = UNBEATABLE... this is my next car which i will be doing myself :D

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im only on 7.5psi............best time with toyo r888 semis was 12.88 at 113mph

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EG5

The key not to break the axles / cv : Dont bog off the line , its better to spin and grab traction compared to 100% traction off the line.

More traction = more chance to break the Axles / CV.

I dump the clutch at 7000 rpm on slicks , Over 50 passes now on EGK24A , never break any axles.

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thanks yonas..........i got built axles and cv's so they should hold up......

you can also try pre loading off the line especially with the 24.5x

Tom - have you looked into the lenso drag rims they all have over in the usa? you could get a cheap set with skinnies for the back too. What yonas mentioned would seem the way to go, you dont want to go too big else you could lose time. 13" m/t would also suit for your power but i dont think they would clear the itr brakes?

have a look on honda-tech.com and see what the guys there are running, most will run a 13x8 with the bigger cars moving up to the larger 15" slicks.

Although if your using a 15" rim go what yonas mentioned 24.5x8or9x15 and pre load off launch building some boost :)

these guys all running 9's on 24.5's:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php...=slicks&page=2
launch tech:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php...ghlight=slicks

slick sizes:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php...ghlight=slicks (prolly a bit large as these guys are running around m&h slicks 25x8.7x13 but they chew thru them with big hp.

rim sizes:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php...ghlight=slicks

24.5x8x15 in some good years if you have the $$$ :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EG5

Should try 24.5x8x15

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This is your best option without changing the brakes. I wouldn't go any bigger unless you plan to turn the boost up substantially.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IEVAQ8

im only on 7.5psi............best time with toyo r888 semis was 12.88 at 113mph



thanks yonas..........i got built axles and cv's so they should hold up......

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built axle and cv's will still break if you bog it hard enough

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Originally Posted by Benson

built axle and cv's will still break if you bog it hard enough

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Tried DSS axles before back in 04 , I bogged it off the line on drag radials , Snapped the CV joint right away in 2 passes

which dss model, im guessing the 2.9's?

for a forced induction set up i'd go the 5.9's as a min with billet hubs, should give you a bit more safety, although adds a bit more weight, as with anything, still a chance of breaking something in racing!

I know dss did a while ago change their shaft line ups, due to snapping problems, so in effect like 5.9's became 2.9's for example.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EGB18CT

which dss model, im guessing the 2.9's?

for a forced induction set up i'd go the 5.9's as a min with billet hubs, should give you a bit more safety, although adds a bit more weight, as with anything, still a chance of breaking something in racing!

I know dss did a while ago change their shaft line ups, due to snapping problems, so in effect like 5.9's became 2.9's for example.

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It was the early days DSS axles back in 04-05.
These days we just run OEM honda axles.

thanks for all the input guys....................

i have also discussed with my tuner whaqt i should do, and he also sudjested the 24.5x8 / 15's........................for practicality..........

however the best and most ideal option is to change my front brakes to crx or civic and use 24.5x8 / 13's........................

will see what happens.....................thanks again for all ur input.............

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IEVAQ8

thanks for all the input guys....................

i have also discussed with my tuner whaqt i should do, and he also sudjested the 24.5x8 / 15's........................for practicality..........

however the best and most ideal option is to change my front brakes to crx or civic and use 24.5x8 / 13's........................

will see what happens.....................thanks again for all ur input.............

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24.5 x 8 x 13 will be better
More side walls there

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EG5

24.5 x 8 x 13 will be better
More side walls there

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thats what i was thinking...................

now its time to search and find some crx or civic brakes............

Yes. The 24.5 x 8 x 13 is the best option if you are prepared to change your brakes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by grumpy rooster

Yes. The 24.5 x 8 x 13 is the best option if you are prepared to change your brakes.

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i didnt really want to as the car is daily driven..............

but if it means i run a good time.......
i think i am prepared to change brakes on a friday evening.......
test it all out on a saturday..............
race on a sunday..........
and return back to stock dc2r brakes on sunday afternoon

will see how it all plans out..............

now thats dedication! i still have no back seat in my type r from compak attak march 15.
too lazy to put it back in then back out when i race again lol

does it really matter, by law i mean, is it a defect or anything?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by YBOOST

now thats dedication! i still have no back seat in my type r from compak attak march 15.
too lazy to put it back in then back out when i race again lol

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atm..................im cbf...........

but i will eventually do it....................it will be good to post a decent time.................

yonas i'm assuming your riding the clutch heaps with 7,000rpm launches?
last time i did a 6krpm launch i hit cut out as it wheelspinned to fast for me

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Limbo

yonas i'm assuming your riding the clutch heaps with 7,000rpm launches?
last time i did a 6krpm launch i hit cut out as it wheelspinned to fast for me

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No , i dont ride my clutch at all.
Big difference running street tyres and slicks

I was dumping my stock euro clutch at 5800rpm on lauch control. I did over 20passes on that clutch and 2 trackdays. I must say, its one strong clutch for OEM