Turbo Build D16Y4

Hey guys,

Finally made my decsion to boost my d series :D yes i know some people hate it but this will be my first turbo build plus first turbo car.

I have done my research and i did get to speak with a couple of people about this so here it is. ( correct me if im wrong of some parts and point me to better parts )

Peakboost OR AFI (still havnt decided) Turbo Kit includes ;

Peak

PeakBoost Stainless Steel equal length exhaust manifold made of 304 8 gauge forged stainless steel*LIFETIME WARRANTY*
-Garrett T3/TO4E turbocharger
-Tial 38mm wastegate
-PWR 24x6x3.5 Intercooler (2.5" inlet and outlet)mounts directly to factory bumper support 475whp supportable!
-Tial 50mm blow off valve
-12inch "Slimline" radiator fan
-Mandrel bent and polished aluminum, complete 3 peice 2.5" charge piping with bead rolled ends to prevent piping blow offs
-3inch polished stainless steel downpipe with stainless flex section
-38mm polished stainless steel wastegate dumptube
-Stainless oil feed (-3) and oil drain (-10) lines (featuring earls fittings.)
-Weldless 100% leakfree oil drain line
-All necessary 4ply pipe couplings
-Strong T-Bolt hose clamps, provide greater clamping force than the cheap worm drive clamps
-all necessary gaskets
-all necessary installation hardware

AFI

Kits come complete with:
-AFI 304ss Tubular Ramhorn Manifold, Limited Lifetime Warrany
-AFI 3" Stainless Downpipe w/ braided flex and O2 bung
-AFI Stainless DIY dumptube kit
-AFI 26x6.5.3.5 Garrett Core Backdoor Front mount Intercooler
-AFI 2.5'" Powder Coated Charge Piping Kit, Bead Rolled
-AFI Street oil line kit (AN fittings, Braided line)
-Garrett T3/T04e 57 trim
-Tial 38mm MVS V-Band Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Q Blow-Off Valve
-PWR 4-Ply silicone couplers
-Strong T-Bolt Clamps
-All miscellaneous gaskets and hardware

Still thinking on which to get but does not matter here is the other parts which i will also buy for my build ;

Turbo Superkit for Honda civic with D16Y7 Engine:

-YCP Vitara pistons (75mm / 75.5mm / 76mm)
-Wrist pins and C clips
-Piston rings (Hastings or NPR)
-Timing Belt
-Water Pump
-ACL Rod Bearings
-ACL Main Bearings
-ACL or King Thrust washers
-Full engine Gasket & Seals set--> Its all the gaskets and seals you will need for your engine from the oil pan and up to the head.Metal 3 layer Head gasket (approx .030 thickness)

Bearing Choice - ACL Race Bearings
Piston Size - 76mm ( now im too sure on the piston size what do you guys reckon?? please tell me if its a bad choice)

Eagle Con Rods
Bisimoto Cam gears
Bisimoto Cam shaft
APR headstuds
Valve Springs
Precision 700 or 1000cc injectors
Walbro 255lph intank
Havent thought about clutch yet but will do later on.. will get LSD if need be aswell at the same time.

I believe thats all that i need oh and ofcourse will get hondata s200 or proecu to tune.

My goal is 250-300whp if i dont get it then i wont get too upset but will try to reach my mark :)

So it begins here guys IM GOING SHOPPING and im going on a mi-goreng diet aswell.

mikey just to keep you in the right direction - aim some pm's to members on this forum for similar experiences...a d series turbo will take ALOT to get to 250-300 whp. If you want a faily quick car just chuck on a turbo "kit" IMO. It will net you maybe 120kw (160 or so hp) atw , and give you a fun car for the 1/4 and daily driven.

300whp easy with that setup, stock sleeves can handle that. alot of guys use 75.5mm pistons.

FJT make custom length conrods for use with the vitaras, with the eagle rods they sit a little lower.

if your upgrading cam,springs & retainers, may aswell get the head port n polished.

turbo kit, ive heard alot use the peakboost kit, are you keeping ac & ps or ripping it out?

ac and ps is for weak people :D thats going

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

mikey just to keep you in the right direction - aim some pm's to members on this forum for similar experiences...a d series turbo will take ALOT to get to 250-300 whp. If you want a faily quick car just chuck on a turbo "kit" IMO. It will net you maybe 120kw (160 or so hp) atw , and give you a fun car for the 1/4 and daily driven.

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with the setup he's mentioned, 300whp should almost be a walk in the park. its all in the tune. (coming from me who's planning to use an AFC...)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

mikey just to keep you in the right direction - aim some pm's to members on this forum for similar experiences...a d series turbo will take ALOT to get to 250-300 whp. If you want a faily quick car just chuck on a turbo "kit" IMO. It will net you maybe 120kw (160 or so hp) atw , and give you a fun car for the 1/4 and daily driven.

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yea i know but bennyben the people that did use d series kits was normal kits with no addons no mods and put it too top psi and engine died out.. but ive seen JUST the peakboost kit with A few addons like eagle rods n bisi cams they made 270whp.

BTW your helping me put all this shit in bennyben i will waiting outside your house mwah :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VTECnique

with the setup he's mentioned, 300whp should almost be a walk in the park. its all in the tune. (coming from me who's planning to use an AFC...)

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yes your correct it is.. u should do the same man :( but hope eveyrthing goes well with your AFC dude

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeyG

yea i know but bennyben the people that did use d series kits was normal kits with no addons no mods and put it too top psi and engine died out.. but ive seen JUST the peakboost kit with A few addons like eagle rods n bisi cams they made 270whp.

BTW your helping me put all this shit in bennyben i will waiting outside your house mwah :D

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Im there :) Keep in mind i stated "....a d series turbo will take ALOT to get to 250-300 whp...." - that is MONEY :) Keep saving and talk more about it soon.

go peakboost kit u wont regret it, i sure didnt

the peakboost kit sounds the goods man, 10 points for building the D :P

yea what im looking at is 12-15psi tuned and running fine.. Daily driven btw at 15psi would be awesome

75mm, or 75.5mm pistons as they will be off shelf items. 76 are usually custom made. The more you inlarge your piston the thinner you cylinder walls will get and you dont want to go 76mm unless you have Iron cylinder sleeves (Darton).

Bisomoto make some great camshafts but be carefull when selecting. Ones that make wild power up to 10krpm (yes on a single cam) Require full valve train upgrades and usually have a very very lumpy idol (something you dont want on a Daily Driver). Dont Bother with the D16y4 head, either change to a SOHC vtec head (D16y1 or D16y8)

Quoted from bisimoto webpage

http://bisimoto.net/store/index.php?...x&cPath=3_9_31

Level 2: street/strip duty, mild idle lope, good for strokers.

Best seller!! Offers a 15% improvement in power over factory, with slightly lopey idle, with emphasis on the 1700 to 5900 rpm range. Takes 7-10 business days to manufacture from pure billet castings. Aftermarket cam gears, and our pro valve springs are highly recommended. Purchase stock cam core, if one is not avaiable. 0.420" valve lift on the intake and exh; 246 deg duration on intake and 225 deg exhaust at 0.040"

Level 2.4: race duty Turbo ONLY, mile idle lope, high RPM duty, Engine Management System (EMS) required.

New race only Turbo camshaft profile with slightly lopey idle, with emphasis up to 8000 rpms. Takes 7-10 business days to manufacture from chillet billet units. Cam gear, and our pro valve springs/retainers are required. 0.440" valve lift on the intake and exh; 246 deg duration on intake and 225 deg exhaust at 0.040" Optimized lobe separation. Professional use only.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sexc86

75mm, or 75.5mm pistons as they will be off shelf items. 76 are usually custom made. The more you inlarge your piston the thinner you cylinder walls will get and you dont want to go 76mm unless you have Iron cylinder sleeves (Darton).

Bisomoto make some great camshafts but be carefull when selecting. Ones that make wild power up to 10krpm (yes on a single cam) Require full valve train upgrades and usually have a very very lumpy idol (something you dont want on a Daily Driver). Dont Bother with the D16y4 head, either change to a SOHC vtec head (D16y1 or D16y8)

Quoted from bisimoto webpage

http://bisimoto.net/store/index.php?...x&cPath=3_9_31

Level 2: street/strip duty, mild idle lope, good for strokers.

Best seller!! Offers a 15% improvement in power over factory, with slightly lopey idle, with emphasis on the 1700 to 5900 rpm range. Takes 7-10 business days to manufacture from pure billet castings. Aftermarket cam gears, and our pro valve springs are highly recommended. Purchase stock cam core, if one is not avaiable. 0.420" valve lift on the intake and exh; 246 deg duration on intake and 225 deg exhaust at 0.040"

Level 2.4: race duty Turbo ONLY, mile idle lope, high RPM duty, Engine Management System (EMS) required.

New race only Turbo camshaft profile with slightly lopey idle, with emphasis up to 8000 rpms. Takes 7-10 business days to manufacture from chillet billet units. Cam gear, and our pro valve springs/retainers are required. 0.440" valve lift on the intake and exh; 246 deg duration on intake and 225 deg exhaust at 0.040" Optimized lobe separation. Professional use only.

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thanks lyle much love but i wouldnt know what to do with a sohc vtec head.. like would i need other parts for it? can you tell me here or pm on what i need please.

Thanks alot Lyle :)

Pretty simple mate, You can do it with all factory parts. Pretty sure your Head stud will need to suit the head not the block.

Eg y4 Block with Y8 head = Y8 head stud etc

Other then that it will bolt together like any other engine. But the Sohc Vtec head is Easy power with much much more potential.

excellent... would i need Y8 intake manifold?? i wouldnt need those vtec conversion kits would i Lyle?

Don't waste your time with a VTec head if your boosting

tru u wont feel it in the d series anyways, if it was b then it would be different

and why is that.. lol whats the difference oh wow b series gods gift since slice bread if i really wanted to i would boost b18cr but im not i want to have fun.. yes i knw i can have fun in a b series aswell but i want d series but dw once i finish this i will go 1/4 and go agisnt b series and b series turbo

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeyG

and why is that.. lol whats the difference oh wow b series gods gift since slice bread if i really wanted to i would boost b18cr but im not i want to have fun.. yes i knw i can have fun in a b series aswell but i want d series but dw once i finish this i will go 1/4 and go agisnt b series and b series turbo

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Your missing the point..

D VTec only adds about 5-7kw max N/A

Once boosted even on a build D that disapears..

On my boosted D I got the following with VTec

VTec off 120kw
VTec on 124kw

In fact not having VTec can help in running higher boost on a built motor..

You need to reseach that stuff man

That's not the case with B's as VTec adds heaps more power N/A or Turbo.

So save the cash you were going to spend on the VTec head and put it towards other parts :)

wats lukezen said b series vtec ads alot more power then d series

u wont feel it on a d series turbo but when u add boost to a b series u can still feel the vetc kick in as it come on stronger.

ok fair enough.. i honestly dont need parts that vtec was just what lyle was saying thats all i got all my parts organized just need to buy them thats all i dont think i need anything more unless anyone else wants to put in their input about it then please do freely

Why bother... if you're going to do a D-turbo, nothing less but a ZC/D16A8 DOHC NONVTEC motor.

ok... if u guys jsut gonna come here and say dont bother d series are shit blahblahblahblahblahblahblahblah gtfo dont need it thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeyG

ok... if u guys jsut gonna come here and say dont bother d series are shit blahblahblahblahblahblahblahblah gtfo dont need it thanks

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lol, i never said dseries is shit.
I have a Dseries turbo... a D16a8 w/ t28 and i leave behind bswapped civics by a few car lengths.
But can't beat cam'd typeR motors- but give them a decent run.
I run neck and neck .. gear 4 gear with my mates DC5R w/ intake..full xhaust...

So i don't see why a fully built Dturbo can't chop on the str8 line.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeyG

ok... if u guys jsut gonna come here and say dont bother d series are shit blahblahblahblahblahblahblahblah gtfo dont need it thanks

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He's right though

The ZC is the best D to turbo hands down...

I'm not says don't do it, just research heaps before you start buying :thumbsup:

ok ZC/D16A8 can i find these here in aus?? are these the eg Si engines? non vtec but makes same power as sohc vtec??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeyG

ok ZC/D16A8 can i find these here in aus?? are these the eg Si engines? non vtec but makes same power as sohc vtec??

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ZC is the Jap version and rare as while the D16a8 is the AUS version still rare but not as rare..

Not sure you'll find one and if you do people want $$$$$$ from them...

Yeah is the SI motor DOHC Non VTec

Once build the are killer motors and shuodl be stronger then the SOHC whith better Torque too

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lukezen27

Your missing the point..

D VTec only adds about 5-7kw max N/A

Once boosted even on a build D that disapears..

On my boosted D I got the following with VTec

VTec off 120kw
VTec on 124kw

In fact not having VTec can help in running higher boost on a built motor..

You need to reseach that stuff man

That's not the case with B's as VTec adds heaps more power N/A or Turbo.

So save the cash you were going to spend on the VTec head and put it towards other parts :)

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Not the point. The advantage of have a Vtec head isnt the fact your getting Vtec. The Size of the ports between the Non Vtec and Vtec head is what makes the difference. I Actually have a photo of a Y4 head (non vtec - right) Vs y8 Head (Vtec - left). Both were ported.

http://i44.tinypic.com/f9fcli.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sexc86

Not the point. The advantage of have a Vtec head isnt the fact your getting Vtec. The Size of the ports between the Non Vtec and Vtec head is what makes the difference.

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Just port the Y4 Block man...

Why waste all the time and money?

To build a head (Valve train, cam, Pnp etc) Will cost the same amount. Just depends on how much he can pickup a Y8/Y1 head for. That will be the cost difference.

A worked Y8 head will flow more then a worked y4 Head providing the specs are the same.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sexc86

Not the point. The advantage of have a Vtec head isnt the fact your getting Vtec. The Size of the ports between the Non Vtec and Vtec head is what makes the difference. I Actually have a photo of a Y4 head (non vtec - right) Vs y8 Head (Vtec - left). Both were ported.

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I see

Well then nice info :thumbsup:

i have 2 he he........... thats what i am doing using the bigger port sizes and putting the largest cam in custom designed for my turbo motor that will let me rev to 7500rpm + on the set boost level i want.

just go for it man at the end of the day if you do a lot of the work it will prolly cost the same as putting a B18 in to do all the work to your D and have more power :P

i wont swap for a B caz if i was going to swap to anything it would be a K

i have a D16A8 DOHC with low km's sitting in my shed

my old D16A8 turbo build made 205 fwkws @ 21psi with only t28 S15 Ball bearing turbo

yeah luke D16A8 arent rare lol,if u cant find one on here they are a dime a dozen over at crxaus,i sold my old long block for $150.

^^^that musta been one hell of a build to hold 21psi reliably in one,i would say more than "only a t28"

It was a very tough engine, stock sleeves with a block gaurd but modifield for better coolant flow, gt28 .64ar.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CRXer

yeah luke D16A8 arent rare lol,if u cant find one on here they are a dime a dozen over at crxaus,i sold my old long block for $150.

^^^that musta been one hell of a build to hold 21psi reliably in one,i would say more than "only a t28"

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b20na i think me and u need to talk.. over a cup of coffee or horse riding which ever u prefer :) :)

ok now got a issue if u want to call it an issue but its regarding the turbo kits... theres a d16a8 with turbo kit for sale 2.5k ono..... or buy a d16a8 and buy the afi or peakboost turbo kit

gosh choices....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeyG

ok now got a issue if u want to call it an issue but its regarding the turbo kits... theres a d16a8 with turbo kit for sale 2.5k ono..... or buy a d16a8 and buy the afi or peakboost turbo kit

gosh choices....

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Give us the link?

d16a8 1.6l twin cam non-vtec motor
arias low comp. pistons, eagle rods. standard crank.
block was bore out to fit diesel sleeves (built for big hp).
arp headstuds from b16
arp mainbolts from h22a
rebuilt manual gearbox with exedy clutch (new)
rebuilt head
t28 ball bearing turbo with ext gate setup.
braided lines
custom ported exhaust manifold (new)
turbonetics 38mm external wastegate
oem metal head gasket.
440cc injectors
front mount intercooler
full 2.5" exhaust with cannon exhaust.
microtech lt8 ecu all intercooler pipeing
radiator

thats the d16a8 engine with box and a turbo build with it

i would get a new kit as u know it will be ll new and u know how the motor runs.

true but if this engine is good and healthy then no point paying much more for a kit... if i buy this i would more change in my pocket so i can upgrade the turbo build.. bigger turbo bigger injectors, precision intercooler, list goes on and on never know tho if it turns out dud ofcourse im going to buy the new kit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeyG

d16a8 1.6l twin cam non-vtec motor
arias low comp. pistons, eagle rods. standard crank.
block was bore out to fit diesel sleeves (built for big hp).
arp headstuds from b16
arp mainbolts from h22a
rebuilt manual gearbox with exedy clutch (new)
rebuilt head
t28 ball bearing turbo with ext gate setup.
braided lines
custom ported exhaust manifold (new)
turbonetics 38mm external wastegate
oem metal head gasket.
440cc injectors
front mount intercooler
full 2.5" exhaust with cannon exhaust.
microtech lt8 ecu all intercooler pipeing
radiator

thats the d16a8 engine with box and a turbo build with it

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Dang I forgot you have an EK

Can't be done sorry man as the motor is in an older emissions bracket than your shell :(

1989-1995
1996-2000

I don’t even think you can get em engineered if they in the older emissions bracket…

u sure luko?? :(:(

thats tru also u cant put older motors in newer chassis

hmmm then forgot about that just going to buy a kit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Riced_Civic

thats tru also u cant put older motors in newer chassis

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You can if here in the same emissions bracket but MikeyG isn't :(

damm oh well kinda ok i say atleast i know NOW i will get me new kit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lukezen27

You can if here in the same emissions bracket but MikeyG isn't :(

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so even if its an older motor you can still put it in all it has to do is meet the same emissions???

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Riced_Civic

so even if its an older motor you can still put it in all it has to do is meet the same emissions???

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Correct

Same years emissions bracket

Wow never knew that luke nice work ok i organised everything

just waitin on qoutes thats all and im not going to get hondata s100 or s200 going to get s300 package which includes;

Walbro 255lph HP w/ Install Kit, RC Engineering 750cc Saturated, Hondata S300 w/ Socketed P28 Retail

if using a socketed P28 which is OBD1, you will also need an EK1 > OBD1 harness, OBD1 dizzy & wire the injectors cuase Y4 has 2 injectors to 1 wire, whereas OBD1 has 1 wire each injector...

EDIT - if using a Y4 or non-vtec head, you dont really need the P28 ecu, just get a P06...

so which kit u gonna go with mikeyG peakboost or AFI

im leaning towards AFI but back of my head peakboost comes up very hard choice. I know both kits are excellent as ive seen reviews on both, but peakboost more people use that i think i might go ahead with peakboost

and since i can use that engine +plus turbo for sale im going to get a d16y1 vtec head

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VTECnique

if using a socketed P28 which is OBD1, you will also need an EK1 > OBD1 harness, OBD1 dizzy & wire the injectors cuase Y4 has 2 injectors to 1 wire, whereas OBD1 has 1 wire each injector...

EDIT - if using a Y4 or non-vtec head, you dont really need the P28 ecu, just get a P06...

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so what your saying is i should get this aswell

OBD2>OBD1 Conversion Harness

the EK1 has different plugs compared to a traditional OBD2. you need to either hardwire the OBD1 ecu in or get an EK1 > OBD1 conversion harness from edge auto...

i thought you couldnt use that engine cause its older than the chassis, or are the rules different in NSW?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lukezen27

Correct

Same years emissions bracket

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Its quite easy to swap over emissions controls and sensors from X gen to Y gen motors (and vice versa) - such as OBD0 to OBD1 or OBD2 setups.

Eg. EF8 crx b16a , swap over sensors /wiring off a 00 b16a2 etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

Its quite easy to swap over emissions controls and sensors from X gen to Y gen motors (and vice versa) - such as OBD0 to OBD1 or OBD2 setups.

Eg. EF8 crx b16a , swap over sensors /wiring off a 00 b16a2 etc.

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That's true but you still can't get the motor regoed if its in an old bracket

ahhhh i get it now

pretty sure the brackets are
87-90
90-95
96-98
98-00
00-02
etc i have a link some where for it because there are months that apply as well but what you cant get in trouble with is the head conversion as i have already looked:) and found out.
Problem is that ours in the 96-98 bracket for emmissions have to make one quarter the emmissions that the 90 model cars can make so its pretty hard to get them through for engeineering

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VTECnique

the EK1 has different plugs compared to a traditional OBD2. you need to either hardwire the OBD1 ecu in or get an EK1 > OBD1 conversion harness from edge auto...

i thought you couldnt use that engine cause its older than the chassis, or are the rules different in NSW?

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i know im not using it so i dont think i need wiring or ek1>obd1 harness i just need d16y1 vtec head

if your putting a vtec head in an EK1 civic, you need to change wiring. The D16Y4s wiring is not like any typical OBD2, where an OBD2 has three plugs for the ecu, the Y4 only has two. so, you have 2 options.

1. sourcing an EK4/9 EM1 or even EJ8 engine wiring harness & a Y8/1 dizzy (because the Y4 has some additional sensors in its dizzy, like for instance ignition pulse for an rpm signal). then an OBD2a/b>OBD1 to run a socketed ECU which you plan to use for hondata

2. an EK1>OBD1 harness from edge auto, Y8/1 dizzy, some patience for wiring, etc.

Also another thing, to run vtec with a Y4 block, you need to chance IACV. Y4 IACV is located on throttle body & is 3-wire, whereas Y8/1 IACV is located on back of manifold & is 2-wire, so you also need to get the Y8/1 intake manifold or just go for gold & upgrade to skunk2 manifold.

dnt cry if your engine blows

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Originally Posted by Bludger

dnt cry if your engine blows

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& why would it blow if he's planning to run built internals, & a properly tuned OBD1 ecu?

its a honda ..... it wont blow must be thinkin it was a commadore or something :P

It wont blow up even with standard internals provided you run & tune it safely.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sexc86

It wont blow up even with standard internals provided you run & tune it safely.

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And you don't drive it :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bludger

dnt cry if your engine blows

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LOL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lukezen27

And you don't drive it :p

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hahahahahhahaa

Luck Mikey, aren't you on new p-plate laws?

Or are you on old ones atm?

old ones

just get a b18 milfy g

haha im not doing the turbo build anymore.. going something 2L

B20B? still alot of work needing to be done, IMO you should stick with the SOHC, rock out with your SOHC out!!

nah not b20

K do it!!!! i would if i had money ... :(

nothing wrong with b20b you will be suprised

K24 FTMFW!! shitload to do for the conversion though...

still mate, a turbo D16 would be hella fun. just stick with the D bud, parts are cheap, plentiful, & there is power to be had in the little single slammers,,,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VTECnique

K24 FTMFW!! shitload to do for the conversion though...

still mate, a turbo D16 would be hella fun. just stick with the D bud, parts are cheap, plentiful, & there is power to be had in the little single slammers,,,

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My D lasted two years and was hell fun to drive round :)