DIY: Coolant change (EG/EK/DC2)

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

Most of this was simply following the Honda service manual

Aim: Refill/bleed the coolant for the cooling system

Required:
- 12mm socket / spanner
- 19mm (I think it was) socket.
- Approx 4-5L of coolant (you can buy it premixed from Honda. Approx $32 for 4L)
- Something to collect the old coolant with (I used my oil pan)

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/.../3IMG_4688.jpg

Steps:
Make sure the engine has cooled down before attempting this as opening the radiator with HOT coolant can/will cause serious injury!
One way to check is to squeeze the top radiator hose. If it is firm, the coolant is still under pressure and hot! (pic below)

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/.../3IMG_4689.jpg



1. Start the car and move the heater temprature to the HOTTEST setting. After this, stop the car.

2. Remove the radiator cap.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/.../3IMG_4693.jpg

3. Loosen the drain bolt at the bottom of the radiator (you don't have to take it out completely, just enough so the coolant starts draining). I didn't jack up the car so couldn't take a decent pic. But its basically like this:

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/3rad.jpg

4. Take out the engine drain bolt and let the coolant drain out completely.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/.../3IMG_4692.jpg

5. Take the cap off the coolant overflow reservoire and pull it straight up to take it out. Empty its contents and put it back into its holder. Put the cap back on.

6. Once all the coolant has finished draining tighten the radiator drain plug fully.

7. Apply liquid gasket (optional) to the engine drain bolt and tighten it back up.

8. Pour the pre-mixed coolant (if it is not premixed, then make sure it is a 50-50 coolant/distilled water mixture) into the radiator via the radiator cap opening upto the filler neck.

9. Loosen the bleed bolt (12mm) at the top of the uppermost radiator hose until there are no airbubbles coming out and just a steady stream of coolant. When you tighten it back up again, make sure you don't over tighten it (9.8Nm is fine). The pic below is for a DOHC-non VTEC engine and is located behind/underneath the dizzy. For SOHC engines it is located on top of the radiator hose at the front of the engine above where the engine number is stamped.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/.../3IMG_4696.jpg

10. Refill the radiator to the base of the filler neck.

11. Put the radiator cap back on up to the first click only.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/.../3IMG_4698.jpg

12. Start the engine and let it run till it has warmed up fully (IE make sure the radiator fan comes on at least twice).

13. Turn the engine off, check the level in the radiator and add coolant if necessary.

14. Fill the overflow reservoire to the MAX mark and put the cap back on.

15. Wash off any spilt coolant with some clean water.

ALL DONE and hopefully I haven't missed anything!

Other comments

Just as a comparison.......the pic below shows the old coolant and the bit of coolant in the cap is the new coolant. Notice the difference? :D

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/.../3IMG_4699.jpg

And thanks to ECU-MAN and the trusty service manual :)

Nice write up! :thumbsup:

How often do u change the coolant ?

Nice Write Up...

doin that tomrw! haha :D! thanks!!

nice work win.

diy guru right there boys

I just realised I didn't take a pic of the coolant drain bolt on the block......will take one and update later!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wynode

I just realised I didn't take a pic of the coolant drain bolt on the block......will take one and update later!

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just withdrew previous statement lol

Yeah i also changed my coolant 20000kms ago......the old one smell sucks...like bad meat! yuk..... :(

Nice work Win,

EuroAccord13 most Honda's require the coolant to be flushed every 40 000KMs most dealers will do it at every 20 000Kms.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by egSi

just withdrew previous statement lol

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You did Win, But you didnt relize it :)

so egSi you can give your statement back :)

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/temp/3IMG_4698-med.jpg

dont forget to change the coolant if you plan to go to the snowies boys and girls. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wynode

8. Pour the pre-mixed coolant (if it is not premixed, then make sure it is a 50-50 coolant/water mixture) into the radiator via the radiator cap opening upto the filler neck.

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make sure its distilled water

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kenshin

make sure its distilled water

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Ta. Updated first post.

gees. I should really check this place for diy's before I do the task. Twice now I've done something that took me ages and this would have helped.

anyway. Doing the bit where you turn it on until the fan turns on twice. How long should this take cuz I waited like 5-10 minutes and it didn't turn on. Maybe this is a problem that I just havn't noticed before. The dash temp guage says everything is fine though.

depends on the temperature of the day, on a hot day it could take 5 min on a cold day it could take longer.

ok i just want to know why do you have to mix it with distilled water.

Sorry for noob question.

normal water will do just fine.

wow theres a coolant drain hole on my womans crx?!?!?!?........wtf..... the pain i've gone through...........ROFLLLLLLLLL.

Normally you use distilled water incase the water has some different metals in it that might react to your coolant and corrode your engine and parts. I think the honda stuff is pre-mixed isn't it? I've been bad cos i use Toyota coolant in a Honda <---
If you do something that radical make sure your flush the entire system out with distilled water (or be just use the hose)

i usually let it run for a while with the cap off to make sure there are no air bubbles in the water, sqeeze the radiator hose etc to make sure.

we just did a change om my mates evo3 and here is what we took out... needless to say he hadnt changed it in a while:o

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../thehut031.jpg

that water looks rusty!!! :( (tell your mate to sell his car quick!!!)

btw. Engine Drain bolt = PITA!!!

yeah its rusty but it will still absolutely rape 99% of the cars on here
when i said evo i didnt mean lancer mock up i mean the real deal

hey guys i was gonna do a coolant flush on my accord vti, its got a sohc f22b, i have found the radiator drain plug but i cant find the bleed bolt and the engine drain bolt, anyone with an accord can help me???

make sure you guys are using liquid gasket (i used loctite non hardening gasket aviation spec)

checked the workshop manual on hondatech?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chee

make sure you guys are using liquid gasket (i used loctite non hardening gasket aviation spec)

checked the workshop manual on hondatech?

---

quite frankly...
you don't have to use that bolt.
just when you take off the plug out of the radiator, make sure you thermostat is open, so take it off when it's quite warm/hot, wear gloves. lol.
there may be no bleed nipple, what you do, is jack your car up at the front, making the radiatator cap the highest point of the cooling system, then put it on stands, start the car with the cap OFF, run the car until all the bubbles have escaped from the radiator.

i found it easiest to use the engine drain bolt and the radiator drain bolt. when i took out the thermostat on my first attempt (was changing the thermostat anyways) i found it didnt get out all of the coolant.

if some1 asked already, i must have missed it

once the old coolant is removed....

u obviously cant flush it down the toilet....

is there a waste disposal facility? is it the same process for coolant as it is for oil?

good rite up wyn

Pour it on your next door neighbours garden. I'm sure they'll love you for it :P

lol

nah, call me a greenie, but that stuff is toxic

if u chuck it in the garden, itll prob turn evrything around it into desolation

Quote:

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Originally Posted by krogoth

lol

nah, call me a greenie, but that stuff is toxic

if u chuck it in the garden, itll prob turn evrything around it into desolation

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sure does
lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by krogoth

lol

nah, call me a greenie, but that stuff is toxic

if u chuck it in the garden, itll prob turn evrything around it into desolation

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thats the idea..... :P

hey guys i thought this would be an interesting read about tectaloy coolants,
http://www.subaclub.com/TechTalk/morethan.htm
and also theres someone bichin about the use of aftermarket coolants here:
http://www.subaclub.com/TechTalk/CoolantCaution.htm

" Good Coolants should have good anti foaming properties. When Coolants foam it affects the operation of the water pump, by creating air bubbles, this also affects the cooling system to dissipate heat and overheating is likely. Secondly foaming can cause more corrosion called cavitation corrosion or erosion, it forms in high turbulence areas, such as around the water pump. A quick test to check a products anti foaming properties is to shake the container, there should be almost nil, 5 seconds is the maximum limit for the foam to disappear."

my radiator tube wen i squeeze it i can feel stuff break off inside the hose... like hard waste... how can i get rid of that???

what coolant are you running?
plus change that hose, it may be on it's way out soon.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by claymore

That hard stuff breaking up is rust and scale from corrosion that is building up on the inside of the hose and it cracks and flakes off when you squeeze the hose. It's definitely time for ALL new hoses.

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will that harm the water pump???

once i get all new hoses... is there any way 2 get rid of the rusty stuff from the engine... just flush the fluidz through???

yeh i was using water for ages... cbf changing it... but i got coolant in it now...
*yay*

what if i dont undo the bleeder bolt?
like just drain it thru drain plug, drain reservoir and refill the radiator.

seems like i cant find one on eg4...

Cheers for the write up... If it wasnt for these DIY, i would be lost and done things the hard way.. haha

hey guys just a few questions regarding coolant change.

i was told black grime substance like mud is common on the lid of the radiator cap if coolant hasn't been changed for a while?

also, after topping new coolant up. do you need to re-top it again after a drive as it seem to suck in more coolant?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EK4R

hey guys just a few questions regarding coolant change.

i was told black grime substance like mud is common on the lid of the radiator cap if coolant hasn't been changed for a while?

also, after topping new coolant up. do you need to re-top it again after a drive as it seem to suck in more coolant?

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yes.
you re check/top it up again.

mocchi:
the bleeder bolt should be where your top radatiator hose goes to on the cylinder head,

cheers destrukshn

wat about the muddy grime substance? or is that oil leak

nah no oil leak, if there was oil, you'd know about it!
lol.
i'm quite sure that will be caused by corrosion.
from not chanign your coolant for sooo long, or using the water or so.
it's fine.

noob question but where is the heater temp control lever?

in your car....?

where u turn the heater up and down, hot and cold

non climate control cars have a sliding or twisting knob...
climate control cars usually buttons or a twisting knob also...



also i know it was like 4 years ago lol, but its not distilled water u mix in...

its De-mineralised Water... you buy it in 5 L bottles at any auto store...

ordinary tap water containing minerals can cause blockage
over time cause minerals in the water cause build ups in
water jackets and such...

also i recommend flushing the radiator and engine block using a hose
just to get rid of any build up possibly flush it backwards...
i know water restrictions... but that doesnt apply to everyone

I heard the OEM honda Coolant is a blue colour i think? i was wondering if my coolant in my car atm is Green and i drain that away, do i just pour the honda OEM blue coolant straight away? or should i stick a garden hose down the radiator and flush it with that?
Also do i need to Disconnect the radiator hose leading to the engine b4 draining it? Thanks.

essentially you should follow the DIY just when the radiators disconnected maybe...
flush it out other wise its all good, or even ask a qoute on coolant change
pretty sure it cant be too much

Listen to destrukshn when he talks about having the thermostat open, or else, you wouldn't be flushing ALL the old coolant out.

do we have to change the washer on the drain bolt? Is it the same one we buy for our oil sump plugs?

u dont really have to, but if its all fked up then ur better off changing it.

thanks,

does any one know if its the same size washer as oil sump?

The oil sump bolt is metal with a metal crush washer.

The radiator drain plug is plastic and doesn't use a metal washer IIRC.

isn't there a drain bolt for coolant on the block next to the engine number stamp?

Ohh you're talking about that bolt. I'm not too sure to be honest.

not the same size, ****loads bigger.
lol,.

I did this DIY today, great advice, but its made my engine heat up even quicker than before. I loosened the bleed bolt on the top radiator hose but nothing came out, took the bolt completely off. Any thoughts?

tighten the bleeder up, close radiator cap rev the car so it builds up pressure then there shud be coolant/bubbles coming out once u loosen it

THanks, I'll give that a shot. Going to flush it out and try again. Replacing the thermostat while I'm at it.

Quote:

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9. Loosen the bleed bolt (12mm) at the top of the uppermost radiator hose until there are no airbubbles coming out and just a steady stream of coolant. When you tighten it back up again, make sure you don't over tighten it (9.8Nm is fine). The pic below is for a DOHC-non VTEC engine and is located behind/underneath the dizzy. For SOHC engines it is located on top of the radiator hose at the front of the engine above where the engine number is stamped.

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Can you just run the car with the radiator cap off till there is no air bubbles coming out?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by InVtecWeTrust

Can you just run the car with the radiator cap off till there is no air bubbles coming out?

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yes you can just leave the car running till the fans turn on

wow!! this is a great info!! thanks alot..however, you might wanna put some words in bold especially in tightening the bleeder bolt. As I did not read cafefully (my fault), hence I broke the housing! :P but manage to get a 2nd hand housing for a cheap price. But manage to learn frm mistakes.
However, thanks for your info again!

the drain bolt on the block is not necessary to use as after it has been opened will need to be tighten n sealed back up its not recommended.. great diy btw

Quote:

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Originally Posted by imratedpg

yes you can just leave the car running till the fans turn on

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Or just put the cap on loosely (ie not all the way till it locks)

i have a dc2 and currently flushing the coolant. i have loosened the radiator drain plug and emptied the reservoir.
but i cant loosen the drain bolt at the block. the thing wont move! do i need to loosen it still? cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mpk_3

i have a dc2 and currently flushing the coolant. i have loosened the radiator drain plug and emptied the reservoir.
but i cant loosen the drain bolt at the block. the thing wont move! do i need to loosen it still? cheers

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You don't HAVE to undo it so if it isn't coming off, don't worry too much about it (especially if you've been changing coolant reasonably regularly).

thanks for that. how much coolant will flow out of it say if i manage to undo the bolt? thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mpk_3

thanks for that. how much coolant will flow out of it say if i manage to undo the bolt? thanks

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none because all of the coolant has already drained from the radiator drain bolt.

cool thanks!

thought some would still be in the block.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RtN

thought some would still be in the block.

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i just usually jack the car up abit on the opposite side of the drain plug to make sure all of it comes out

this helpd alot :)

Can anybody tell me where the bleed nipple for the cooling system is on dc2r?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vtecster

the drain bolt on the block is not necessary to use as after it has been opened will need to be tighten n sealed back up its not recommended.. great diy btw

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This, don't remove the bleed valve from the top of the block unless its already leaking. It's a bitch to get it to go back in and sealed properly... Just take the drain plug out of the bottom of the block and flush the rest of the system out with a hose once you've disconnected the top and bottom radiator pipes to remove any old coolant left in the system. Trust me, I rang my local Honda dealer service department, they said the same thing. Just take the cap off the radiator, after you've started the car once its full and make sure you don't have an airlock, there should be no bubbles under idle when you squeeze the radiator piping, just "burp" it the traditional way by squeezing any air out of the radiator pipe until you have no bubbles. As the Honda service department said it's more trouble than what its worth to do it the way it says in the manual.

Also because the top of your radiator is plastic, take caution and just remove the pipe from the head of your engine when you're flushing the radiator out and not the other end which is connected to the radiator itself, particularly if the plastic on your radiator top is looking discoloured otherwise you may just cost yourself a more expensive and time consuming job of finding and fitting a new radiator.

The manuals way of doing it is LE WRONG! don't follow it...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gbang007

noob question but where is the heater temp control lever?

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When it says make sure your heater temperature control lever is open it means the slider on the inside of your car. This is so the coolant drains out of your heater matrix and you don't contaminate your new coolant with old crap, or unnecessarily corrode your heater matrix any more than what it has already been with old coolant. Do remember to undertake this step BEFORE you go about disconnecting all of the hoses for your radiator.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mj3610

hey guys i thought this would be an interesting read about tectaloy coolants,
http://www.subaclub.com/TechTalk/morethan.htm
and also theres someone bichin about the use of aftermarket coolants here:
http://www.subaclub.com/TechTalk/CoolantCaution.htm

" Good Coolants should have good anti foaming properties. When Coolants foam it affects the operation of the water pump, by creating air bubbles, this also affects the cooling system to dissipate heat and overheating is likely. Secondly foaming can cause more corrosion called cavitation corrosion or erosion, it forms in high turbulence areas, such as around the water pump. A quick test to check a products anti foaming properties is to shake the container, there should be almost nil, 5 seconds is the maximum limit for the foam to disappear."

---

Seriously, just go to your Honda dealer and buy the proper Type II coolant, it doesn't cost that much more and it does a better job than the green or red shit you get from Super Cheap, it doesn't need to be mixed and whats more it lasts longer at least than the green shit. Even then when Honda's coolant was green... It's now blue... It's not the same cheap and nasty stuff you get from Super Cheap or etc, it's rated for long service intervals as opposed to standard. It's also rated for the proper operating temperatures.

The other Nulon red stuff and the cheap and nasty green stuff you get is not properly rated for use in Hondas. From memory you can get the full 5 litres of Honda Type II coolant for something around the order of $50, it's really not that expensive. I don't understand people who skimp $20 on parts, or coolant that could cost them thousands if they break down. Cheap oil and coolant is cheap most of the time because its shit.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4iI9iujxwW...ou-do-that.jpg

buy J's racing cooling water because blue and it's JDM

http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/jdm-ima...t_hcw-4l_1.png

JDM is best

Type II coolant is better blue man, it's like dark blue.... WINNING!

Serious guy... you don't want that green shit that corrodes your engine unless you like that kind of thing of course?