Just wondering if its normal for an engine to look this black on the inside. Looks much dirtier than most I seen on the net.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...2072009194.jpg
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Just wondering if its normal for an engine to look this black on the inside. Looks much dirtier than most I seen on the net.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...2072009194.jpg
looks ok, oil usually turns that colour after a while, seen worse.
its when you have hardened layers on components that you should be worried. Or actual contaminents like grains of dirt etc in there.
It looks like the oil could have been changed more often though. lol
Change your oil more often. 5000km/6 months if you are using FEO or a mineral oil, 10000km/6 months if you are using a synthetic. Worry when your engine starts to look like this:
http://pic18.picturetrail.com/VOL898...1/93067197.jpg
Woah, now thats scary!!Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Alright, thanks for the info guys, I guess on the internet, most people clean it first before taking pictures. Lol
What do you guys think of an engine flush. The ones Nulon and similar companies make....
PS. I just realised Im still a newcomer when my join date is Nov 2005..lol
No, don't use engine flush. Just change your oil more often. 5000km/6 months for mineral oils and 10000km/6 months for synthetic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lerlo
Lerlo, how many K's has that engine done.
its not good, however its not bad. you can recover from that with TLC.
its done 205k, ive change the oil every 5000....but only did 2 oil changes after i bought it........Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
if you run your finger along the cam gear, you will see how that crap comes off, when its baked on, its not so easy to remove.
just keep changing your oil every 5k and it will be fine.
I'd have to agree with aaronng, don't use a flush. Your engine isn't particularly dirty, not enough to be a worry at any rate.
Even if it werer dirtier, I still wouldn't use a strong chemical cleaning agent. Any relatively chunky and / or abrasive gunk is much safer left stuck to the internal surfaces than it is if it's liberated into the oil by a cleaning agent.
If it were my engine I'd use a diesel oil, which due to it's high detergency will gently clean internal components (rings and ring lands in particular, hopefully reclaiming any lost compression due to ring sticking caused by gummy or carbonised deposits). The cleaning action of a diesl oil should be much gentler than that of a chemical engine flush.
I use diesel oils in my engines, but only use ones that stipulate that they are also suitable for petrol engines (some diesel oils can 'poison' the cat). Having said that, I wouldn't use any high detergent oil in an engine that looked anywhere near as filthy as the one in post #4 (leave that crud lie where it is...). To do so would be to court sudden engine death (as my brother discovered with his ancient Beetle...)
This engine looks like the inside of most older Toyota engines I've seen (well known for serious sludging, even with diligent oil changing).Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
This sort of thing is (I hear) caused by copper (or alloys containing copper) being in contact with the lubricant. The copper (apparently) acts as a catalyst for the reaction that results in the oil forming sludgy deposits (even when the oil is changed frequently).
The previous owner of this car changed the oil every 5000 as well. Thing is he always used magnatec. thats like 10 oil changes with magnatec.
Its not bake on, it comes off with a normal wipe.Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
And bad news, I broke this bolt, circled in red. :(
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k2...72009194-1.jpg
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I want to learn how you would fix that because it is something that I would do too LOL
rofl!!Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
Take the old stud off and put a new one on. Common for people to break that stud.
The H22A sitting in my yard under cover is starting to look like that. It's got decent sludging at the moment...Probably not as bad, but still a cause for worry considering its there as an 'upgrade' to my D16Y1.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Should I leave the sludge there and continuously change the oil when the engines in and running? OR should I take it apart and clean it properly before she heads in to the EG engine bay?
Woah, if its out, why dont you just take it apart and clean it. Better now than in the car. Change the seals in the process as well. I think the worse thing to happen is the oil pickup get clogged with the sludge...Quote:
Originally Posted by hayashi_1986
That reminds me, can sludge build up if the engine hasnt been used for awhile.
Because my car hasnt been started for about a yr before i bought it...
Thanks Aaron, thats good to hear, I was like freaking out when it broke. Shuold I try wreckers or dealers first??Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Wreckers won't have that, and if they do they'll tell you to buy the whole head lol It's around 14bux from the honda dealers for the short ones, and 8bux for the longer ones. Bite the bullet man, it ain't that expensive lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Lerlo
Lol, im just afraid the dealers dont have it in stock and i gotta take public transport till it gets here from japan...Quote:
Originally Posted by hayashi_1986
shorter ones cost more? hmm...
Here's my B16A SiR 2 open
90,000km on her
http://www.scruffie.com/luke/car/b16a/B16A_head.jpg
Give em' a ring,I'm sure it will be next day delivery.
We still need a DIY on how to replace the bolt.
Do you have to remove the whole lost motion assembly to replace that stud?
Just watch your toque setting if you do... I broke mine on my old D16
http://www.scruffie.com/luke/car/lost_motion.jpg
If time wasn't an issue then that's what I'd do as well. While it was apart I'd be thinking about having the bores honed and new rings fitted, or at the very least thoroughly clean the rings and the ring grooves. Actually, it would be madness not to check and measure everything while it was apart...Quote:
Originally Posted by Lerlo
The sludge is 'made' in use through heat and chemical reactions with combustion products etc, so if the engine isn't being used...Quote:
Originally Posted by Lerlo
It comes right off....at the bottom where it meets the brace looking thingie is a 12mm nut, unscrew it and it comes right off, theres another 5cm of thread below that we cant see. Whole thing screws into the head.Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
Thats clean..i wonder why mines so dirty, could it be magnatec oil, since its like magnetic and sticks onto metal....but then again the head is aluminum.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
the grime is created from overused oil.
simply remove the broken stud with a spanner and replace it with a new one.
ideally u want to torque it down to the correct spec
Ah,so easy!
BOught the bolts, coming on monday, 9 bucks for one at honda dealer.
CHeers
Wow,something under $10 at Honda!!
Magnatec is a mineral oil, so it breaks down reasonably quickly. On my car which was driven gently without thrashing, I could feel it get rough consistently at the 7000km mark. Switched to 3 other brands of PAO synthetics and 1 hydrocracked synthetic, never felt that roughness again at 7000km or even up to the 10000km/6 months interval that I follow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lerlo