Engine Oil questions

I know there are other threads as a i searched but wanted to make a thread as i have a few personal questions
Spammer fags telling me to search gtfo

Ok so it's coming up first service since i had my motor put in (b16b)

I've heard alot about royal purple, and it being an awesome engine oil but is it overkill? For a stock b16b with I/H/E

Also what weight oil should i be running 5w-30 or 10w-40

Another thing i noticed, i checked what it has in it already, as high power gave me the bottle to top it up (and i havent had to yet oil levels haven't moved)
It was a bottle of Castrol Edge but its 25w40!

This isnt right is it?
I was either going to replace my oil with Edge 0w-40 or 5w-30
Or Royal Purple 5w-30 or 10w-40

Recommendations and advice on if current oil could of hurt the motor
Car will be tracked yes, and is a daily

Thanks in advance

you would feel the car struggle and fuel consumption is high if you're using a very thick oil. it puts drag on the moving internals of the engine.

use edge 5w30 on your next service. cheap and efficient. if you got the cash and want to go all out, royal purple.

Throw that bottle of 25w40 away.

Edge 5w-30 is cheap, and I'd treat it like Honda FEO. Good oil, don't expect it to work wonders. The Edge 0w-40 is much better being a Group IV synthetic. Haven't personally used RP, so can't comment.

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Originally Posted by outatime

you would feel the car struggle and fuel consumption is high if you're using a very thick oil. it puts drag on the moving internals of the engine.

use edge 5w30 on your next service. cheap and efficient. if you got the cash and want to go all out, royal purple.

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WEll thats what i thougt car feels like it bogs out but i'm assumming its fromt he stock Eg Si exhaust.. but i ahve noticed i only get around 350kms to 3/4 a tank whereas with my d16a8 i used to get 400-450 on 3/4 of a tank

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Throw that bottle of 25w40 away.

Edge 5w-30 is cheap, and I'd treat it like Honda FEO. Good oil, don't expect it to work wonders. The Edge 0w-40 is much better being a Group IV synthetic. Haven't personally used RP, so can't comment.

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The bottle of 25w-40 is as good as gone.. i just hope it wasnt a bandaid to hide a knock or soemthing :zip:

I might try run the 0w-40 and see how the car goes.. hopefully all good

a lot depends on your driving style, usuage pattern, operating temp, drain interval and budget.

0w40 great for late model engines, and Euro high output engines with flexible drain intervals that specifies long life oil demands it, but $$$ and doesnt work any better in our B series than say a 5w40 or 10w40 oil. 0w40 oil great for fast circulation at low temps and fills hydraulic tappets very quickly which your engine doesnt have. I use the 0w40 castrol edge in my AMG Merc which is well suited to it, you are better off trying the 5W30 Castrol Edge and see how that fares. If it doesnt burn any oil after 5000km then keep using it, if it does try Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 and see if that improves. 5W30 would give you the least drag and best throttle response out of the commonly avail/affordable oils you can buy off the shelf. In our b18c7 dc2r I tried castrol 5w30 which burnt about 300ml after 5000km when moderate daily driving and then tried Mobil 1 5w50 which burnt about half that in 5000km and about to try Motul 10W40 300v next to see if it's much different.

I use Castrol 10W60 in my eg5 B16a which I track a lot, it's thick and you lose a lot of throttle response in traffic but best protection at high load and temp conditions at reasonable costs and easy avail; if I use that mainly for road I would use a syn or semi syn 5W40 or 10w40 and change every 5000-7500km.

Edge 5w-30 is a group III synthetic while 0w-40 is a group IV. On an engine like the b16b which will see close to 9000rpm, I wouldn't trust any less than a group IV. Group III synthetics were formulated to reduce cost. Not for ultimate protection like the group IV (Mobil 1, Motul 8100) and group V (300V)

10-40 oem spec royal purple if youre looking for overkill (sure you can rev to 9000k, but hell if its not warmed up right and running race oil, she'll still live a short life...)

but if youre changing it every 5k, why not just use oem feo? if its daily, feo, if youre doing serious track work, then Id spend more dosh on better gear

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Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV

but if youre changing it every 5k, why not just use oem feo? if its daily, feo, if youre doing serious track work, then Id spend more dosh on better gear

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For what you pay for FEO now, it does not give good protection for the money you pay. You are better off getting Edge 5w-30 when there is a sale on for $35 per bottle and using that with 5k intervals. FEO is only a mineral oil. It won't be able to compete with even a cheap group III synthetic like Edge 5w-30.

I think it also depends on the condition of your engine too. If the motor has had some track work done in the pass, been drive hard, or high kms and not very well looked after you can expect leaks from any wore out seal. Because Castrol Egde is very thin oil though is a high flowing oil you can get a leak anywhere with old seals. From the sounds of him using i pretty thick 25w-40 oil maybe his given you that because it was something already in his work shop or his trying to hide a leak.

IMO if you drive it daily then 10w-30 FEO is fine as long as you change it every 5k. Even 10w-40 is fine as long as it gets changed every 5k.

I guess you could try castrol egde 5w-30 but be sure to check your oil levels all time to check for any leaks and to see if it burns up because its pretty thin.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Edge 5w-30 is a group III synthetic while 0w-40 is a group IV. On an engine like the b16b which will see close to 9000rpm, I wouldn't trust any less than a group IV. Group III synthetics were formulated to reduce cost. Not for ultimate protection like the group IV (Mobil 1, Motul 8100) and group V (300V)

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Is there any easy way to tell by looking at labels on bottles if they are a group III / IV / V product?

or this is something u work out based on the API Service rating?

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Originally Posted by aaronng

For what you pay for FEO now, it does not give good protection for the money you pay. You are better off getting Edge 5w-30 when there is a sale on for $35 per bottle and using that with 5k intervals. FEO is only a mineral oil. It won't be able to compete with even a cheap group III synthetic like Edge 5w-30.

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dollar for dollar, Id take the pepsi challenge and say its better using oem fluids for daily driving than castrol products

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Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV

dollar for dollar, Id take the pepsi challenge and say its better using oem fluids for daily driving than castrol products

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isnt that kinda like saying you'd rather drink "home brand" cola over Pepsi Max even IF they were the same price?

I get the oil at the same price... in short, there is never a sale that I would buy oil from a superdodge or autoshed...

and even if I did have to pay $5 more, Id still rather not use castrol anything in my car... lol

but isnt Honda FEO a rebadged Castrol?

Been using Castrol edge 5-30 for winter and 10-30 for summer for my dc2r for 2 years.

Engine still is fine without burning oil and has about 130,xxx kms.

Just make sure you change oil often around 5000-6000kms religiously.

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Originally Posted by quenjose

Is there any easy way to tell by looking at labels on bottles if they are a group III / IV / V product?

or this is something u work out based on the API Service rating?

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Nope, you have to check their technical data sheets, which are on their website.

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Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV

dollar for dollar, Id take the pepsi challenge and say its better using oem fluids for daily driving than castrol products

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Honda OEM fluids are not made by Honda. LOL.

It's like taking the Pepsi challenge and picking Pepsi but in reality the Pepsi plant had shut down and all Pepsi is now being made by Home Brand and relabeled.

And I'd rather take cheap Mobil 2000, Castrol Edge 5w-30 or Shell Helix Plus 10w-40 over FEO any day. I'd pick FEO over GTX3 and other mineral oils though.

hey aarong, would please explain why you would rather mobil2000 and shell helix plus over FEO? Just curious

What do you see thats so bad in FEO?

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Originally Posted by Sir_vtec

hey aarong, would please explain why you would rather mobil2000 and shell helix plus over FEO? Just curious

What do you see thats so bad in FEO?

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FEO = mineral oil formulated for price and at the correct specified viscosity for Hondas (10w-30)

Mobil 2000 and Shell Helix Plus (blue bottle) = semi synthetic, which is mineral with a synthetic additive package. The viscosity is 10w-40, which is 1 step thicker than the spec for new cars but just nice for older engines (personally, I also use 10w-40 in my newish car).

If both were the same price, which they are at retail, I'd pick the Mobil 2000 and Helix Plus because they are semi synthetic and would protect at least the same and most probably better than FEO. Australian Honda FEO is different to the Japan Honda FEO. In Japan, you get the option of a fully synthetic FEO, which is developed for the high end Hondas like the S2000 and NSX. If I was in Japan, I'd pick that synthetic FEO over anything else, short of Motul 300V.

dont get EK1.6LCIV started on oem oil filters lmao

Well guys i got a bottle of 0w-40 Castrol Edge, mate got me a hookup :p

I'm going to change the oil tomorrow hopefully and see how it goes along with an oem filter (cant get a hamp one any time soon and i want this 25w-40 oil gone)

The car will be tracked, but of course it is always warmed up before being driven hard,
As for budget for oils, when it comes down to it i'l pay through my arse for oil, as its the lifeblood of the motor, and if RP is the best and will offer that little bit extra protection i'd pay for it

So aarong the 0w-40 is the goods? not too thin?

0w-40 is fine. At -18 ºC, viscosity is the same as a 5w. At Gold Coast temperatures, they are very very close, probably the same. At 100 ºC, which is the operating temperature of the engine oil, the 0w-40 is thicker than 10w-30.

awesome, well as i said i'll change it and see if a knock appears, oil leaks ect

0w-40 would be good for the track too? i might go Rp next i just wanted to try EDGE again as i'm comig to sydney to pick up some rims soon is all and didnt want to fork out big dollars for oil thats gonnna have 2000kms knocked off its life in a week or two

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Originally Posted by eg5civic

I know there are other threads as a i searched but wanted to make a thread as i have a few personal questions
Spammer fags telling me to search gtfo

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Rule #1 of spam thread, don't ask for advice.

OT: IMO try what others use and see what you like the most, that doesn't mean every service change to a new oil but give a bit of everything a go IMO.

Tell us how it goes man :)

900km trip to syd should be a good test man ;)

Very True :)

I like running 10-40w. I wouldnt spend more then $50 on 5L oil if you plan to change oil 5000km intervals.

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Originally Posted by Benson

I like running 10-40w. I wouldnt spend more then $50 on 5L oil if you plan to change oil 5000km intervals.

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I agree with this man. Also 0w is too thin for a worn motor, regardless of grade quality.

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Originally Posted by Chr1s

I agree with this man. Also 0w is too thin for a worn motor, regardless of grade quality.

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hmm well hats what i got

any negative effects?

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Originally Posted by eg5civic

awesome, well as i said i'll change it and see if a knock appears, oil leaks ect

0w-40 would be good for the track too? i might go Rp next i just wanted to try EDGE again as i'm comig to sydney to pick up some rims soon is all and didnt want to fork out big dollars for oil thats gonnna have 2000kms knocked off its life in a week or two

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Edge 0w-40 will protect your engine on track as long as your engine is in good condition and it is warmed up before you give it a hard run. But seeing that I don't know the condition of your engine, I can't guarantee that your engine will be fine. :)

For the record, I have used both the Edge 5w-30 and 0w-40 on the track with no problems and no oil burning, but then again my engine has only 80,000 km and revs to only 7000rpm unlike yours.

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Originally Posted by Chr1s

I agree with this man. Also 0w is too thin for a worn motor, regardless of grade quality.

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0w is the rating at -18 ºC. Show me where in QLD do you get -18 ºC. Also, 0w has the same viscosity as 5w. The only difference is the pour point, which is -30 ºC for 5w and about -36 to -40 ºC for 0w. :)

Look at the 2nd number. It is a 40 weight oil at 100 ºC. It is thicker than FEO 10w-30 and Edge 5w-30 in QLD and engine temperature.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Edge 0w-40 will protect your engine on track as long as your engine is in good condition and it is warmed up before you give it a hard run. But seeing that I don't know the condition of your engine, I can't guarantee that your engine will be fine. :)

For the record, I have used both the Edge 5w-30 and 0w-40 on the track with no problems and no oil burning, but then again my engine has only 80,000 km and revs to only 7000rpm unlike yours.

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I assume its in good condition as it didnt chew any oil but then again it was running thick oil

also they said it was low kays.. ie 80-100k apparently

-____- so many choices in oils, just dont want to make the wrong one and harm the engine

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Originally Posted by eg5civic

I assume its in good condition as it didnt chew any oil but then again it was running thick oil

also they said it was low kays.. ie 80-100k apparently

-____- so many choices in oils, just dont want to make the wrong one and harm the engine

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You can harm the engine by choosing the wrong viscosity, going too long in the oil change intervals, not warming the engine up by cruising before giving it hard acceleration and if there is an existing problem in the engine in the first place.

So just choose the correct viscosity (b16b is spec'd for 10w-30 but can use 0w-30, 5w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 as well as per the manual if you have it), drive gently until the engine is warmed up (twice the time it takes for the coolant temperature gauge to reach the middle) and change your oil and oil filter at regular intervals.

Cant go wrong with 10-30w or 10-40w or 0-40w or 5-30w.

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Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV

dollar for dollar, Id take the pepsi challenge and say its better using oem fluids for daily driving than castrol products

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at least in the pepsi challenge you are comparing pepsi vs coca cola products, here you are comparing castrol vs caltex products who oems for honda australia. I much rather buy the cheaper SCA calibre 10W30 oil also made by caltex and make do without the Honda oem sticker on the bottle and the right to shout OEM FEO OEM FEO YO to my frens but I rather pocket the savings or spend on better oil at similar price to FEO.

can someone explain why 10w40 mineral oil (magnatec) burns more than my current oil, 10w40 semi-syn (motul turbolight)?

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Originally Posted by Sir_vtec

I think it also depends on the condition of your engine too. If the motor has had some track work done in the pass, been drive hard, or high kms and not very well looked after you can expect leaks from any wore out seal. Because Castrol Egde is very thin oil though is a high flowing oil you can get a leak anywhere with old seals. From the sounds of him using i pretty thick 25w-40 oil maybe his given you that because it was something already in his work shop or his trying to hide a leak.

IMO if you drive it daily then 10w-30 FEO is fine as long as you change it every 5k. Even 10w-40 is fine as long as it gets changed every 5k.

I guess you could try castrol egde 5w-30 but be sure to check your oil levels all time to check for any leaks and to see if it burns up because its pretty thin.

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Does the stop leak lubricant really works? Or its bullsh**??

i have oil leaks.. :(

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Originally Posted by hectic_filo

Does the stop leak lubricant really works? Or its bullsh**??

i have oil leaks.. :(

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It's only a stopgap solution. Might gum up eventually and potentially cause problems in the engine. Identify where the leaks are coming from and replace the gasket or seal that has failed.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

It's only a stopgap solution. Might gum up eventually and potentially cause problems in the engine. Identify where the leaks are coming from and replace the gasket or seal that has failed.

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seems like i have a few gasket to replace. :( thanks for the info m8,

how bout octane booster?? does it give effect or its bullsh** aswell?

once i get my external seals changed in another month i'll try the edge 5w30 i got during the repco sale :P

my h22a has nearly 200k..wonder how my engine will run.

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Originally Posted by hectic_filo

seems like i have a few gasket to replace. :( thanks for the info m8,

how bout octane booster?? does it give effect or its bullsh** aswell?

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Octane booster is BULLSHIT. Stay away from it. You can get deposits in your combustion chamber and in bad cases also kill the cat convertor. Octane booster costs so much for so little. A better alternative would be for you to fill up with 98 RON at the pump instead! Are you using 91 (regular), 95 (premium) or 98 RON (Vpower, Vortex98, Ultimate, Mobil 8000) at the moment?

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Originally Posted by migoreng

can someone explain why 10w40 mineral oil (magnatec) burns more than my current oil, 10w40 semi-syn (motul turbolight)?

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Because Magnatec is full mineral (like FEO) which does not have the additive package that is added to Turbolight to improve its resistance to combustion.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Octane booster is BULLSHIT. Stay away from it. You can get deposits in your combustion chamber and in bad cases also kill the cat convertor. Octane booster costs so much for so little. A better alternative would be for you to fill up with 98 RON at the pump instead! Are you using 91 (regular), 95 (premium) or 98 RON (Vpower, Vortex98, Ultimate, Mobil 8000) at the moment?

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I been using Vpower the whole time unless i dnt have the 4c docket :) I end up filling up the cheapes octane/premium that i drive pass, Like mobil 8000 or caltex vortex,

I havent tried either octane booster or stop leak,, i just saw these in the shop and they cost a fortune for a small bottle and i wonder are they effective bcoz the price for the size..

Btw i am using the mobil 2000 semi synthetic oil..gud or bad?

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Originally Posted by hectic_filo

I been using Vpower the whole time unless i dnt have the 4c docket :) I end up filling up the cheapes octane/premium that i drive pass, Like mobil 8000 or caltex vortex,

I havent tried either octane booster or stop leak,, i just saw these in the shop and they cost a fortune for a small bottle and i wonder are they effective bcoz the price for the size..

Btw i am using the mobil 2000 semi synthetic oil..gud or bad?

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Mobil 8000 and Vortex98 are just as good if not better than Vpower. So don't worry. Make sure you use Vortex98 and not the regular Vortex, which is only 95 RON, if you must use 98.

Mobil 2000 is good for the price if you are willing to use 10w-40. Personally, I prefer it over Honda FEO and use it in my other car.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Mobil 8000 and Vortex98 are just as good if not better than Vpower. So don't worry. Make sure you use Vortex98 and not the regular Vortex, which is only 95 RON, if you must use 98.

Mobil 2000 is good for the price if you are willing to use 10w-40. Personally, I prefer it over Honda FEO and use it in my other car.

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98% atm Vpower and my flybuys:).. forgot to mention it was the vortex98 not the normal vortex.. but yea most of the time Vpower for Vtec engine :D

Yea i use mobil 2000 its cheap for the performance it gives compare to other oil.. i always wanted full synthetic the mobil 1 but too expensive. I remember i used to use the valvoline 20-40 its doggy and leave dark marks in the valve inside the engine, clean it out and started to switch to semi synthetic and its clean and more milage

I'm using Martini Racing. Very smooth and no problems so far.

i run castrol edge 5-30w with OEM filter.

I put 4 litres in and 5,000km's later 4 litres come out. Nothing wrong with it, works fine, sounds great and doesn't leak. Thats why i'm not changing, no matter what anyone says. lol

FEO - Fools Engine Oil hahah.

I use OEM fluids for everything else though.

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Originally Posted by JasonGilholme

i run castrol edge 5-30w with OEM filter.

I put 4 litres in and 5,000km's later 4 litres come out. Nothing wrong with it, works fine, sounds great and doesn't leak. Thats why i'm not changing, no matter what anyone says. lol

FEO - Fools Engine Oil hahah.

I use OEM fluids for everything else though.

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I just did my change, put 5w-30 in... makes a world of difference over the shit that that had been originally put in there

Car starts and idles better, and believe it or not picks up more smoothly, used to feeel like it bogged out 2-4k rpm in 2nd