Can someone show me pictures of how to flush out the automatic transmission fluid? or even just show which bolt I need to remove to drain the fluid.
Please show me....anyone?
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Can someone show me pictures of how to flush out the automatic transmission fluid? or even just show which bolt I need to remove to drain the fluid.
Please show me....anyone?
How many litres do I need for a full flush and replace?
Will post some diagrams & information when I get home. Hold on tight.
Thanks manQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
The drain bolt has a 3/8" square drive pattern on it. Look for that. To remove it, you use a 3/8" square drive ratchet. When changing ATF, the volume changed is 2.8L. So 3L should be enough to do it. To fill it back up, you do it through the auto transmission dipstick hole.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3...013001kbad.png
Thanks for that. I really needed it. hopefully this should solve my problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
how do you even know something like that aaron. what tool to use and everything lol jesus !.
Aaron = CL9 GOD! LOL
those drain plugs can be bloody tight as well. when I changed my Cu2 auto fluid the other week i had to use a 1/2" drive step down to 3/8" drive connector, to which I attached a 1/2" universal joint a 10" extension bar with a breaker bar attached to that. I have no idea why they are so bloody tight.
most if not all honda auto transmissions uses the same 3/8 drive to take it out.
Because I've changed MTF/ATF before. Also, it is a Honda standard. My dad has a 94' auto and it has 3/8" on the drain plug, while my 04 manual also has the same 3/8" for the drain plug.Quote:
Originally Posted by hooyn
The assembly workers in Honda Japan/Thailand have strong arms. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
I used a 3/8" ratchet and a rubber mallet. Even if it is tight, a few taps of the mallet loosens it easily because there is a crush washer. Remember to replace the crush washer, it is an aluminium 14mm piece.
Didn't think you would need to change the Auto Fluid on the CU2 just yet?? What is the recommended time before changing it anyway? I got an 06' and I doubt it has been changed??Quote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
Interval I think is 4 years, but I would change it every 2 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by demons21
I change Auto fluid every 20,000km, if you consider when you drain the Auto fluid you only drain a little over 1/3 of the total capacity (2.5lts to refill, total capacity is just over 6 lts). In theory that means your changing the full capacity of the transmission every 60,000km, but in reality it doesn't work that way as your always mixing new oil with old.Quote:
Originally Posted by demons21
Heat is the biggest killer of auto transmissions & the fluid, so it is cheap insurance for the life of the transmission if you change it more regularly. It is an easy DIY.
(my opinion)
aaronng, i actually broke the internals of a 3/8 drive ratchet on the auto drain plug of my FD1, so i take a more heavy handed approach now to remove the drain plug.
Quote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
Thanks Mate,
I got my 70K service due next month (by honda). So I might ask them to change it unless already specified...I might also look through the service log book to double check,if it has been done before.
I believe a 70K service is basically just an oil change, filter is optional. If your just a little bit handy with your hands it is a very simple DIY service. It would cost you no more than $100 for Genuine oil, filter & 3 litres of auto fluid & maybe an hour or so of your time. Where in QLD are you? If anywhere near the central coast I could help you out. (I am a fully licensed mechanic)Quote:
Originally Posted by demons21
My dealer has only seen my CU2 for the first free service I the software update. They will not see it again unless there is a warranty issue.
Where do you get the tranmission oil from?
From your Honda dealer, it comes in 1 or 4 litre containersQuote:
Originally Posted by iLlusion10
how much? and where do you get the crush washer from?Quote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
1 litre container is $15.00 + GST, You will need 3. get the crush washer at same place
I am just out of the city on the river!... I used to service all my old cars, but then again, they were all FORDS, with self draining technology (leaked like a sieve)!! .. The Honda however is still under warranty and I thought best to leave it up to the Experts / Glorified fitters for now.. If I find out that it hasn't been done before I will definitely get the tools out though!!Quote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
Quote:
Originally Posted by demons21
The problem I have with dealerships is the way they overcharge for everything (I should know as I worked in dealerships for many years). Lets use a basic 10,000km service as an example - most dealers will charge in the area of $200 give or take. Basically it is just an oil change & the slowest mechanic would take no more than 30 minutes to do this service, even if the filter is replaced.
I buy Genuine oil & filter for $58.00, so that leaves $142.00 labour. How can anyone justify those charges?
If people are fussy about their cars like me & change their oil & filter every 5,000km, look at the money you can save.
As for an Auto Transmission service (oil change) they would charge a minimum $100 labour for that, once again less than 30 minutes work.
Sorry demons21, I am about 600km north of you.
yeah but they also go over the whole car for you, tightening suspension/chassis bolts, top up all fluids, check/do tyre pressures, including in the spare tyre, check for any out of the ordinary, such as cracked bushes, broken engine mounts, worn out belts etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
i know the price is still high, and not really worth it, but alot of garages just do the service and don't check anything.
also, being dealerships, they have bills to pay as well.
so obviously, they can't charge peanuts and expect to pay wages, bills, rent, consumables etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
yeah but they also go over the whole car for you, tightening suspension/chassis bolts, top up all fluids, check/do tyre pressures, including in the spare tyre, check for any out of the ordinary, such as cracked bushes, broken engine mounts, worn out belts etc.
In all my years in workshops I have never seen that done with the exception of tyre pressures, it was just a quick visual check over
Mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
I am well aware of the "Honda Mark-up" but as I am not a mechanic I have to take it to them or another recognised Servicer (who I would not trust with a matchbox car).!
i've worked at a honda dealership for over 5 years, and other dealerships as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
everyone i've been too, has done it.
Couple of questions...Quote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
The CL9 service book says that auto transmission fluid is changed every 120,000km. Do they do a full flush of the entire thing, or just replace the 2.8 litres that drains from it? If it's the latter, isn't this bad, since essentially the car will always have old fluid.
Also, how sensitive is the transmission to the level of fluid? I remember on my old Statesman you absolutely had to get the right amount in. Too much or too little would make it slip, hold gears too long, etc.
Is it true that you have to use genuine Honda fluid rather than a generic one from SCA, Autobarn etc? If so, can you get it anywhere except dealers? Can't seem to find any on ebay...
Quote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
Buddah, can all of these chassis bolts etc that you mention be done diy ? im not really mechanically minded either but if i have a fair idea which bolts n where to tighten that would be helpful?
car is a 2006 , with a mild 67000kms on the clock....
I also am experiencing the power steering/ squeeky noise would you recommendation to put new fluid in be worth it? ( the previous owner has fudged logbooks ive found out as the dealership stamps on it do not correspond when i rang up the dealer) buyer beware always ask for receipts as log books mean **** all
I would say that 98% of the time they just change the 2.8 litres (approx) that is drained out. This is why I change mine every 20K, it is almost impossible to do a full drain of old fluid in a transmission, therefore you are always mixing new oil with old. Unfortunately Honda do not have a pan & filter on the transmission, just a drain plug & magnet. One of the biggest killers of Auto transmissions is lack of service as heat destroys the oil & from there the internal components (if you lower a car or put body kits on cars this restricts air flow under the car causing the transmission to run hotter. I only ever use genuine Honda Transmission fluid & would recommend the same to others. Using the wrong oil can kill a transmission in no time. Oil Level is VERY CRITICAL, but i would prefer to be a fraction over then a fraction under.Quote:
Originally Posted by seanneko
If you are able to get the car high enough to get under it you can check the chassis bolts yourself (I have never checked mine).Quote:
Originally Posted by rayd17
You can try changing the Power Steering Fluid to see if it helps, but it would be impossible to know if it would improve your problem. If at any time your Power Steering Pump has run on low oil level there is a strong possibility that the bearings could be damaged.
The new ATF-DW1 (synthetic) apparently is more high temp tolerant than the old ATF-Z1, I might give it a try later.
heres a comparison of them all, used ATF-Z1, new ATF-Z1 and new ATF-DW1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4Pw4fwnMDY
It maybe more high temp tolerant, but the difficulty is changing all the oil in the transmission at 1 time. What we used to do with cars that had badly burnt transmission fluid was to do a service & when finished, disconnect the transmission oil supply pipe to the radiator (or cooler), run the car in gear untill the oil flow from the pipe stopped, refill the gearbox & keep repeating the process until the oil ran clean. This would normally consume 20 litres + of transmission fluid. that = $$$$$
If you were to just use the new ATF-DW1 oil during a normal drain & refill method you would probably be looking at 4 to 6 oil changes before you could get close enough to full capacity of ATF-DW1 in the transmission
Funny you said Transmission oil cooler, I was thinking about installing one... Then I founding out from either k20.org or Acura forum that it doesn't actually help Honda Auto Tranny's apparently the part that usually breaks is the second clutch or something which the 'cooled' fluid can't reach anyway...Quote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
Yeah I know... aint that a b&*^%.Quote:
If you were to just use the new ATF-DW1 oil during a normal drain & refill method you would probably be looking at 4 to 6 oil changes before you could get close enough to full capacity of ATF-DW1 in the transmission
Guess we'll just have to keep our fingers greasy.
I can't comment on the temperature difference an oil cooler would make to a Euro as I have never done any testing. I can say as fact that on falcadores we fitted oil coolers to it dropped the oil temp by 20 to 25 deg C, Under heavy towing conditions the difference was over 30 deg C. Oil Coolers do work, the problem with modern electronic Auto Transmissions is to make sure you don't fit too big a cooler which drops the oil temperature too much.
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
just wondering which part of the car does this diagram reflect, i mean where is this area? directly under the ATF dip stick? i assume? as you can tell i am a complete noob when it comes to cars..
On the CU2 it is on the bottom of the Transmission towards front of the car. Most of the time it is very tight. I use a 1/2" drive ratchet, short extension bar with a 1/2' to 3/8" stepdown socket.
awesome, it will be easier at the front of the car.
I was planning to use the stock car jack to jack up the car on both side ( i have 2 jacks)
craw under it and uscrew the plug, without being directly under it and drinkinga mouth full of oil :p
but was just told that it was a stupid idea cause if the car move due to the tention from trying to remove the plug i would be in a lot of pain to say the least.... so my question is, how do you guys get under the car?
I would recommend a set of ramps which will give you enough room. "Don't be slack like me" I use a 2500kg garage floor jack only. (not an elcheapo from supercheap, but the type you would find in a workshop).
just one? so your car was tilted on the side? i had imagie it would need to be at least horizontaly leveled to drain the oil..
might be worth taking it in to honda but it will cost 270 just to change the oil.. :(
That's right you only need 1, jack it up under the front cross member (center). $270 is a crazy price, but what is new? All service prices are crazy & this little puppy will continue to do everything DIY.
Even if you don't want to do it yourself, buy some Honda ATF-DW1 Fluid and get any mechanic to do it for you, they charge by the hour, and this should only be a 1 hr job.
So I've finally gotten around to servicing my auto... Went to Honda Belconnen in Canberra, and they wanted $150 for 8 litres of ATF-Z1 (which they also claimed was the new fluid). Apparently they don't sell 1 litre bottles.
That's a crazy price considering that, from reading on here, the going price for 6 litres is about $80 or so.
Where else can I buy it from? Are there any other dealers that would post it to me or something? Any online stores?
Atf-z1 is the new fluid, it's synthetic instead of Dino ATF-dw1. So it's better.Quote:
Originally Posted by seanneko
eBay probably... From the USA it about $45-50AUD for approx 11.5 liters (12 quarts, 12x0.975Lt approx) plus shipping
so, I went out and bought what i thought was the necessities
4 liter Atf-z1 for $65 with a washer.
a Pair of stands for $69
Excitedly went home to try my hands at it...
Found out quickly that with the max height of the standard jack i was unable to fit the stand under the car.
After playing around for ages.. it still could not give enough height.
so after spending $134, i am now giving up and waiting for my 80k service which include a transmission fluid change..
Anyone from Melb want to buy a pair of jack stands (3000kg) for $69? Never used. LOL
What's wrong with a set of ramps? easier & safer than jack & stands.
Can't you put something under the jack?Quote:
Originally Posted by dec3it
Arent you able to adjust hights of those jack stands?
PS: I think a proper jack is only like $39 in supercheap auto. you only need a 1500kg jack.
i bought the jack stand rather than the rail was due to ease of storage, i dont have much room for storage...
I think i will invest in a proper jack ..
i didnt think about putting something under the jack but wow, thats a smart idea. will try it this week end.
thanks
If your going to buy a Floor Jack, at least get a decent one that will last for many years, not a Super Cheap peace of crap. Like anything you get what you pay for. I got a full size 2500kg one & it's still as good as new after 20 years.
What is the max height of the jack and what is the min height of the stands? You need to compare the specs, then add a few cm of extra for the jack height.Quote:
Originally Posted by dec3it
Hi all,
It's been a long time since i logged on, but i thought i should provide you guys with an update to my situation.
I just had my 80,000km service and requested for them to change my Transmisison fluid instead of a DIY. Apparently it is not to Honda standard to change transmission fluid at 80k but by changing it has eliminated the "jerking" feeling while driving at low speed.
I took my car in for a check up a few months ago when i 1st noticed the problem and while it was under warrently I had asked for a transmission fluid change as adviced by you guys, they had responded wth. "There is no issues, we dont know what is wrong, changing the fluid would not help. If it happens again, please come back." it happened everyday... but who has the time to drive their car in every day???
Anyway, What really amazes me was the statement that was made after paying for the change of fluid.
"How did you know changing the transmission fluid would help? We are aware of the issue but the scheduled change is at 140k service, unless our customers asks"
Well I asked and was declined!
Great service once again HONDA
For the cost involved if you can DIY, change your auto fluid every 20,000km & you should never have a problem with your Transmission. I know i am old school when it comes to car servicing, but i do my Auto fluid every 20k or 12 months & engine oil & filter every 5k. Maybe it is over servicing if there is such a thing, but you know you will get the maximum life out of your car.
Funnily enough, I had my 70k service done at a Nissan dealer (due to an extended used car warranty plan which I've since decided not to maintain) who advised me that my auto trans fluid was getting dirty, and that they recommended it be changed at the next service (80k).Quote:
Originally Posted by dec3it
Just drained and refilled twice using Redline D4 ATF at nearly 76k and I feel that the car shifts quicker and smoother. The old fluid was badly discoloured when I drained it, and I have doubts as to whether or not a 140k maintenance interval for ATF is suitable for our cars. I have yet to decide when I will next drain and refill the fluid, but may do so by judging the colour of the fluid as time goes on.
Mine is in the dealer's today for the 120k service. ATF never changed till this day. LOL [deleted]Quote:
Originally Posted by dec3it
old thread but im due to change my auto trans fluid. Everyone is sticking to the Atf-z1 or has anyone gone aftermarket say like castrol etc etc
I'm gonna go with redline d4 (synthetic) this time, I'll let y'all know how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10KRPM
Ps: ATF-z1 had been out of production for a year now, so the z1 you get from dealers are all over a year old... If you have to go with Honda oEM fluid you might wanna buy atf-dw1 from overseas
so is this new ATF cheaper off ebay then?
group buy anyone in SYD?
Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonite
I've been calling around, there isn't any Honda dealers where I am (Brisbane) that stocks ATF-dw1, and considering ATF-z1 I $16.50 per 1L from Honda dealers... I'd imagine the ATF-dw1 will cost more.
If you are in Sydney you can hit up GL lubricants (in Eastwood) for redline D4 at approx $23 per quart, you need 3 quarts
If you are in Melbourne, you can hit up performancelub.com (in greensborough or something) for Amsoil universal ATF for $18 per quart, you need 3 quarts
For those of you who wish to do a full Automatic Trans Oil flush I came across this DIY on youtube. It is exactly what we used to do in our shop, except that we drained from the return hose which means that the cooler is being flushed as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY
Where would you purchase your redline from? any dealer or have you a specific shop in mind?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Keep reading my post lol, you'll have to get it shipped up from Sydney.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10KRPM
http://www.redlineoil.com.au/reseller-locations.asp.
Couple of resellers in brisbane.
Too expansive from official resellersQuote:
Originally Posted by 10KRPM
hey guys i just bought a atf z1 today can i still use it in my cl9?or i need to get dw1?
of course you can use ATF-Z1.Quote:
Originally Posted by po61ba2
Not that i'll ever get Z1 again, but yes, it is useable.
cheers man i just want to clarify it cause a new atf came out...thanks...
I believe Nulon have a Synthetic Auto Trans fluid suitable for Honda's. Readily available. Check out the Nulon website
97 dollars shipped for redline d4 from sydney. 1 gallon.
good price?
it'd probably be cheaper to get 6 quart bottlesQuote:
Originally Posted by 10KRPM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10KRPM
crap, i think i got over charged from AUtobarn.
1 Gallon at 179$
have to give them a call tmrw.
hey Guys and Gals I found this On Eric The Car Guy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7_Rs...layer_embedded
it is very informative and shows you how to change the auto oil
enjoy
Hey guys gotta question...I changed he ATF in my cousins 05 euro and it was its first change (man that bolt was hard to get off) and added the new dw-1...couple of day later I checked it for him and it was more brown on the dipstick...but when I wiped it on he paper towel the red tinge is still there...I'm sorta concerned...shud I do another drain and refill?
When was the last time the fluid was changed?Quote:
Originally Posted by andyn
if you do a 1x fill, thats only 33% of the entire fluid, effectively you're not changing all that much.. and it turning brown? it's probably the new synthetic fluid doing it's job: cleaning.
a full replacement is like 4x fills, but people usually do 3x drain fills....
thats why you should do a drain fill every 2nd service to spread out the costs
erm... i think the last time was 05 xD but yea.. im on placement for the week and i told him that id change it again... i was scared that i screwed up the change ty fredoops
Anyone actually tried the Nulon full-synth fluid?
Hey guys. I know this is an old thread but i still use it everytime to help me change my ATF lol. Anyways, my drain plug is starting to lose its square shape, where you insert the 3/8 wrench. does anyone know where i can get another one and how much they cost? Thanks in advance
honda dealer. I got mine off ebay tho.Quote:
Originally Posted by euro90
Hey Fred, does Castrol make any decent ATF? Not really getting Bob the Oil guy, last I checked, I got confused.
Castrol in oz has an ATF-z1 equivalent fluid..... It's crap. So don't bother.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosMaster
Lolz, I figured. But CBF going all the way to Honda, especially since the car ain't a honda. Hmmm, would be looking at a DW1 equiv anyway. Too bad SCA only seems to stock ATF in Castrol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops